-> Is this a good budget 350-400WHP plan ??
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So I have a complete LS motor to play with but not alot of $$$ to dump in it. And I know a guy with a GSR crank with Eagle rods and Wiseco Pistons for sale used for very reasonable. And another guy with a B Series STR block guard FS for $50.
1. So if I took the LS block and tapped in the block guard, then had it bored/honed for the pistons ( they're 81.5s ) would that be a cheap and pretty reliable bottom end for a min of 350 and max of 400whp?
2. Does that plan work? GSR crank rods and 81.5mm GSR pistons in an LS block?
FYI: Plan is to be tuned with Hondata
Open to suggestions (other than " just spend a **** ton and sleeve it") and any valid points.
1. So if I took the LS block and tapped in the block guard, then had it bored/honed for the pistons ( they're 81.5s ) would that be a cheap and pretty reliable bottom end for a min of 350 and max of 400whp?
2. Does that plan work? GSR crank rods and 81.5mm GSR pistons in an LS block?
FYI: Plan is to be tuned with Hondata
Open to suggestions (other than " just spend a **** ton and sleeve it") and any valid points.
I woulld stick w/ the LS crank. Spend the money on some forged pistons and some rods ( I see alot of eagles for sale on here cheap). I have basically the same plans for over the winter. In stock sleeves we trust
Phil
Phil
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jfoster »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So I have a complete LS motor to play with but not alot of $$$ to dump in it. And I know a guy with a GSR crank with Eagle rods and Wiseco Pistons for sale used for very reasonable. And another guy with a B Series STR block guard FS for $50.
1. So if I took the LS block and tapped in the block guard, then had it bored/honed for the pistons ( they're 81.5s ) would that be a cheap and pretty reliable bottom end for a min of 350 and max of 400whp?
2. Does that plan work? GSR crank rods and 81.5mm GSR pistons in an LS block?
FYI: Plan is to be tuned with Hondata
Open to suggestions (other than " just spend a **** ton and sleeve it") and any valid points.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Gsr crank isnt needed when your LS crank will do the job. 350+ is a big number unless u are planning on boosting at least 18psi with a t3/t4e 57 trim. If I were u, I would either get some cams/pnp head bc I have seen some LS making 350hp+ with only 15psi. But, if your short on cash, get some low compression pistons like 8:5:1 and a sc61 and you should be able to meet your goals.
1. So if I took the LS block and tapped in the block guard, then had it bored/honed for the pistons ( they're 81.5s ) would that be a cheap and pretty reliable bottom end for a min of 350 and max of 400whp?
2. Does that plan work? GSR crank rods and 81.5mm GSR pistons in an LS block?
FYI: Plan is to be tuned with Hondata
Open to suggestions (other than " just spend a **** ton and sleeve it") and any valid points.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Gsr crank isnt needed when your LS crank will do the job. 350+ is a big number unless u are planning on boosting at least 18psi with a t3/t4e 57 trim. If I were u, I would either get some cams/pnp head bc I have seen some LS making 350hp+ with only 15psi. But, if your short on cash, get some low compression pistons like 8:5:1 and a sc61 and you should be able to meet your goals.
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First off, thanks for the input
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaguyef »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I woulld stick w/ the LS crank. Spend the money on some forged pistons and some rods ( I see alot of eagles for sale on here cheap). I have basically the same plans for over the winter. In stock sleeves we trust
Phil</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have seen some good deals on here, but I know first hand that his setup only saw about 200 miles or so of use. Plus I can get the rods, pistons, and crank for less than $500 ( Thats pretty good right?)
So if the GSR rotating assembly works fine in an LS block I might as well get it (I am under the impression it will work, but only with the GSR crank. As in the GSR rods/pistons won't work with the LS crank. Is that right?)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.DC2TurBo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Gsr crank isnt needed when your LS crank will do the job. 350+ is a big number unless u are planning on boosting at least 18psi with a t3/t4e 57 trim. If I were u, I would either get some cams/pnp head bc I have seen some LS making 350hp+ with only 15psi. But, if your short on cash, get some low compression pistons like 8:5:1 and a sc61 and you should be able to meet your goals. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Right now I am thinking it will see either an ITR head, or a PnPed LS head. And about 16 psi from an SC34. Truthfully I would be over joyed with 350 WHP....but 390 would be perfection
More thoughts? Plans ? Is the STR block guard a good idea ? Seems like cheap insureance to me, but I have read good and bad things ??????
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaguyef »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I woulld stick w/ the LS crank. Spend the money on some forged pistons and some rods ( I see alot of eagles for sale on here cheap). I have basically the same plans for over the winter. In stock sleeves we trust
Phil</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have seen some good deals on here, but I know first hand that his setup only saw about 200 miles or so of use. Plus I can get the rods, pistons, and crank for less than $500 ( Thats pretty good right?)
So if the GSR rotating assembly works fine in an LS block I might as well get it (I am under the impression it will work, but only with the GSR crank. As in the GSR rods/pistons won't work with the LS crank. Is that right?)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.DC2TurBo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Gsr crank isnt needed when your LS crank will do the job. 350+ is a big number unless u are planning on boosting at least 18psi with a t3/t4e 57 trim. If I were u, I would either get some cams/pnp head bc I have seen some LS making 350hp+ with only 15psi. But, if your short on cash, get some low compression pistons like 8:5:1 and a sc61 and you should be able to meet your goals. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Right now I am thinking it will see either an ITR head, or a PnPed LS head. And about 16 psi from an SC34. Truthfully I would be over joyed with 350 WHP....but 390 would be perfection
More thoughts? Plans ? Is the STR block guard a good idea ? Seems like cheap insureance to me, but I have read good and bad things ??????
block guard to me is always a good insurance to have but a lot ppl will disagree and say it is just a waste of money. It's only 100 dollars for aebs so I rather have some peace of mind than have something bad happen.
ITR head or b16 head will get u to 390 without a sweat. I'm in favor of non- vtec. I would love to see if an LS with pnp head/cams/intake manifold is capable of getting 400hp without boosting over 20psi on a t3/t4e 57 trim.
ITR head or b16 head will get u to 390 without a sweat. I'm in favor of non- vtec. I would love to see if an LS with pnp head/cams/intake manifold is capable of getting 400hp without boosting over 20psi on a t3/t4e 57 trim.
You'll be taking away some stroke w/ the GSR crank. 2.0mm I beleive. You'll lose some low end torque (which is the benefit of the LS to begin with) and drop the compression a little bit. If you're getting it for $500 though I would go ahead and build it. The slight drop in compresion may be a benefit in the future
Phil
Phil
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaguyef »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You'll be taking away some stroke w/ the GSR crank. 2.0mm I beleive. You'll lose some low end torque (which is the benefit of the LS to begin with) and drop the compression a little bit. If you're getting it for $500 though I would go ahead and build it. The slight drop in compresion may be a benefit in the future
Phil</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok, so does anyone know how much using a GSR crank/rods/pistons in an LS block effects compression? I think the pistons are supposed to yeild 9.5:1 comp in a GSR.
So could I just have the block decked a little when I have it bored to make up for the drop? And if I used a DOHC Vtec head, would that gain a little comp back???
Phil</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok, so does anyone know how much using a GSR crank/rods/pistons in an LS block effects compression? I think the pistons are supposed to yeild 9.5:1 comp in a GSR.
So could I just have the block decked a little when I have it bored to make up for the drop? And if I used a DOHC Vtec head, would that gain a little comp back???
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jfoster »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So could I just have the block decked a little when I have it bored to make up for the drop? And if I used a DOHC Vtec head, would that gain a little comp back???</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes and yes. I beleive the compreesion will drop from 9.5 to about 9.2 or 9.3. I am not positive on the exaxt compresion drop but, it isn't to great.
Phil
So could I just have the block decked a little when I have it bored to make up for the drop? And if I used a DOHC Vtec head, would that gain a little comp back???</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes and yes. I beleive the compreesion will drop from 9.5 to about 9.2 or 9.3. I am not positive on the exaxt compresion drop but, it isn't to great.
Phil
When i talked to stan at Inlinepro about the setup i'm doing, he told me all i need is Eagle rods and some 9.0:1 pistons. That should be good for the 500-550whp range. Just get it tuned. You can have a stock motor or a built motor, both will fail if not tuned. you makeing power in your goal range now is just a matter of what PSI and tune will get you there and good luck.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaguyef »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yes and yes. I beleive the compreesion will drop from 9.5 to about 9.2 or 9.3. I am not positive on the exaxt compresion drop but, it isn't to great.
Phil</TD></TR></TABLE>
Alright, as long as it in the 9s I think it'll work out fine.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM S1eeper »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When i talked to stan at Inlinepro about the setup i'm doing, he told me all i need is Eagle rods and some 9.0:1 pistons. That should be good for the 500-550whp range. Just get it tuned. You can have a stock motor or a built motor, both will fail if not tuned. you makeing power in your goal range now is just a matter of what PSI and tune will get you there and good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, the tunning will be the key. I just don't want to get all these parts and them not really work together well. Infact the idea of the LS/Vtec worries me, but I'll just have to study up....seems like you guys have ironed out most of its problems...
I'd need the GSR crank pulley to right? For it all to work right?? ?
Yes and yes. I beleive the compreesion will drop from 9.5 to about 9.2 or 9.3. I am not positive on the exaxt compresion drop but, it isn't to great.
Phil</TD></TR></TABLE>
Alright, as long as it in the 9s I think it'll work out fine.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM S1eeper »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When i talked to stan at Inlinepro about the setup i'm doing, he told me all i need is Eagle rods and some 9.0:1 pistons. That should be good for the 500-550whp range. Just get it tuned. You can have a stock motor or a built motor, both will fail if not tuned. you makeing power in your goal range now is just a matter of what PSI and tune will get you there and good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, the tunning will be the key. I just don't want to get all these parts and them not really work together well. Infact the idea of the LS/Vtec worries me, but I'll just have to study up....seems like you guys have ironed out most of its problems...
I'd need the GSR crank pulley to right? For it all to work right?? ?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.DC2TurBo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">block guard to me is always a good insurance to have but a lot ppl will disagree and say it is just a waste of money. It's only 100 dollars for aebs so I rather have some peace of mind than have something bad happen.
ITR head or b16 head will get u to 390 without a sweat. I'm in favor of non- vtec. I would love to see if an LS with pnp head/cams/intake manifold is capable of getting 400hp without boosting over 20psi on a t3/t4e 57 trim. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i'll be able to get my LS on t3/t4e 57trim to 400whp under 20 psi on pump. i'm already at 350 on pump with 15psi with a bit of misfire. with a bit more tunning i'm sure i can pull 365-380whp @ 15psi on pump. add 3-4psi more and i'm sure i can get 400whp+. but it's all just talk now, we'll have to wait till next spring and see.
ITR head or b16 head will get u to 390 without a sweat. I'm in favor of non- vtec. I would love to see if an LS with pnp head/cams/intake manifold is capable of getting 400hp without boosting over 20psi on a t3/t4e 57 trim. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i'll be able to get my LS on t3/t4e 57trim to 400whp under 20 psi on pump. i'm already at 350 on pump with 15psi with a bit of misfire. with a bit more tunning i'm sure i can pull 365-380whp @ 15psi on pump. add 3-4psi more and i'm sure i can get 400whp+. but it's all just talk now, we'll have to wait till next spring and see.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shermanyang »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i'll be able to get my LS on t3/t4e 57trim to 400whp under 20 psi on pump. i'm already at 350 on pump with 15psi with a bit of misfire. with a bit more tunning i'm sure i can pull 365-380whp @ 15psi on pump. add 3-4psi more and i'm sure i can get 400whp+. but it's all just talk now, we'll have to wait till next spring and see.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Stock LS head? Good work
i'll be able to get my LS on t3/t4e 57trim to 400whp under 20 psi on pump. i'm already at 350 on pump with 15psi with a bit of misfire. with a bit more tunning i'm sure i can pull 365-380whp @ 15psi on pump. add 3-4psi more and i'm sure i can get 400whp+. but it's all just talk now, we'll have to wait till next spring and see.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Stock LS head? Good work
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So what happens if you put GSR rods & pistons on an LS crank, in an LS block? Or can you even do that?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.DC2TurBo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Gsr crank isnt needed when your LS crank will do the job. 350+ is a big number unless u are planning on boosting at least 18psi with a t3/t4e 57 trim. If I were u, I would either get some cams/pnp head bc I have seen some LS making 350hp+ with only 15psi. But, if your short on cash, get some low compression pistons like 8:5:1 and a sc61 and you should be able to meet your goals. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Who cares whether it makes the power at 15 or 18psi? For those power goals, I would go with the 57 trim because it should spool faster than the SC61. Hell, I went with the 50 trim for a goal of 350whp.
Gsr crank isnt needed when your LS crank will do the job. 350+ is a big number unless u are planning on boosting at least 18psi with a t3/t4e 57 trim. If I were u, I would either get some cams/pnp head bc I have seen some LS making 350hp+ with only 15psi. But, if your short on cash, get some low compression pistons like 8:5:1 and a sc61 and you should be able to meet your goals. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Who cares whether it makes the power at 15 or 18psi? For those power goals, I would go with the 57 trim because it should spool faster than the SC61. Hell, I went with the 50 trim for a goal of 350whp.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Who cares whether it makes the power at 15 or 18psi? For those power goals, I would go with the 57 trim because it should spool faster than the SC61. Hell, I went with the 50 trim for a goal of 350whp.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I already have an SC34
Just need a motor plan to boost on.
Who cares whether it makes the power at 15 or 18psi? For those power goals, I would go with the 57 trim because it should spool faster than the SC61. Hell, I went with the 50 trim for a goal of 350whp.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I already have an SC34
Just need a motor plan to boost on.
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1. <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jfoster »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So what happens if you put GSR rods & pistons on an LS crank, in an LS block? Or can you even do that?
</TD></TR></TABLE>??
2. And I have an Action 2MD clutch I bought for my '01 GSR....will that still work with my GSR trans and an LS block? Or in other words, what determines clutch application? Block or trans? Or both?
</TD></TR></TABLE>??2. And I have an Action 2MD clutch I bought for my '01 GSR....will that still work with my GSR trans and an LS block? Or in other words, what determines clutch application? Block or trans? Or both?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jfoster »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> what determines clutch application? Block or trans? Or both?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Flywheel and Trans.
You would match the PP (which most b esries are the same) w/ the flywheel and you would match the disc w/ the trans. 90-91 teg and most JDM b16 trans have small shafts and 92-93 teg and all hydro b series trannies have large shafts.
Phil
Flywheel and Trans.
You would match the PP (which most b esries are the same) w/ the flywheel and you would match the disc w/ the trans. 90-91 teg and most JDM b16 trans have small shafts and 92-93 teg and all hydro b series trannies have large shafts.
Phil
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaguyef »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Flywheel and Trans.
You would match the PP (which most b esries are the same) w/ the flywheel and you would match the disc w/ the trans. 90-91 teg and most JDM b16 trans have small shafts and 92-93 teg and all hydro b series trannies have large shafts.
Phil</TD></TR></TABLE>
So either motor will work with my clutch so long as I use my GSR trans and flywheel.....
Flywheel and Trans.
You would match the PP (which most b esries are the same) w/ the flywheel and you would match the disc w/ the trans. 90-91 teg and most JDM b16 trans have small shafts and 92-93 teg and all hydro b series trannies have large shafts.
Phil</TD></TR></TABLE>
So either motor will work with my clutch so long as I use my GSR trans and flywheel.....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jfoster »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So either motor will work with my clutch so long as I use my GSR trans and flywheel.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sure will
Phil
So either motor will work with my clutch so long as I use my GSR trans and flywheel.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sure will
Phil
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Awesome, and thanks.
So now the question is....to try the whole LS/Vtec plan or just plop the stock LS head back on and boost away.....???....I kinda like the LS head idea as it less work and money....but if it had a GSR head I could just slap my stock GSR IM back on it and just run it off my stock ECU for a NA breakin...
Is it a good idea to break in a motor NA even if its destined for FI ?
So now the question is....to try the whole LS/Vtec plan or just plop the stock LS head back on and boost away.....???....I kinda like the LS head idea as it less work and money....but if it had a GSR head I could just slap my stock GSR IM back on it and just run it off my stock ECU for a NA breakin...
Is it a good idea to break in a motor NA even if its destined for FI ?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jfoster »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Awesome, and thanks.
Is it a good idea to break in a motor NA even if its destined for FI ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are welcome and yes, break it in N/A. Stick w/ your LS as well. J/K whatever you decide man, just have fun!
Phil
Is it a good idea to break in a motor NA even if its destined for FI ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are welcome and yes, break it in N/A. Stick w/ your LS as well. J/K whatever you decide man, just have fun!
Phil
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaguyef »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You'll be taking away some stroke w/ the GSR crank. 2.0mm I beleive. You'll lose some low end torque (which is the benefit of the LS to begin with) and drop the compression a little bit. If you're getting it for $500 though I would go ahead and build it. The slight drop in compresion may be a benefit in the future
Phil</TD></TR></TABLE>
GSR Crank = 35lbs = 87.2mm
LS Crank 34.5lbs = 89mm
You dont swap cranks to change compression. A different stroke crank dictates a different length connecting rod. The rod compensates for this to bring the piston to the correct height at TDC negating the stroke impact on compression.
Phil</TD></TR></TABLE>
GSR Crank = 35lbs = 87.2mm
LS Crank 34.5lbs = 89mm
You dont swap cranks to change compression. A different stroke crank dictates a different length connecting rod. The rod compensates for this to bring the piston to the correct height at TDC negating the stroke impact on compression.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
GSR Crank = 35lbs = 87.2mm
LS Crank 34.5lbs = 89mm
You dont swap cranks to change compression. A different stroke crank dictates a different length connecting rod. The rod compensates for this to bring the piston to the correct height at TDC negating the stroke impact on compression.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I see now. My mistake
. What is the OE length for the GSR rods and the LS rods? The GSR rods are 1.8mm longer than the LS rods? 
Phil
GSR Crank = 35lbs = 87.2mm
LS Crank 34.5lbs = 89mm
You dont swap cranks to change compression. A different stroke crank dictates a different length connecting rod. The rod compensates for this to bring the piston to the correct height at TDC negating the stroke impact on compression.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I see now. My mistake
. What is the OE length for the GSR rods and the LS rods? The GSR rods are 1.8mm longer than the LS rods? 
Phil
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I'll probably just get the stock LS crank turned. I was just wondering if GSR rods/pistons are useable with an LS crank because there seems to be more of them for sale in the classifieds and they tend to come with 3/8" bolts as most of the LS rods have the smaller bolts.
Next question. Are the smaller rod bolts just no good? Or is there a HP level at which the larger bolts are required?
Next question. Are the smaller rod bolts just no good? Or is there a HP level at which the larger bolts are required?


