Opps didn't do compression test right, but...
Forgot to open the throttle, and I disconnected the injector clips instead of popping the PGM-FI relay fuse (harder but should have worked the same). Also noticed that the battery was runing out of juice on the lasted tested cylinder.
Numbers with the throttle plate closed:
4 - 155
3 - 130
2 - 140
1 - 139
So I'm thinking I'll skip the re-test with the throttle plate open and just do a leak-down instead, since I'm borrowing the test equipment any way and have a decent compressor.
Should I have expected such shitty numbers with the throttle plate closed or should they have been a little higher? Also should the numbers still have been more consistant regardless of the throttle position?
I searched for a compression how-to and found the c-speedracing one, but how about a leak down. I don't want to perform the leak-down just miss some small part of the test and make the numbers useless again.
Thanks, and I finally put new spark plugs in there and the car almost flew
I guess I should change them more often than every 40,000 miles.
I'll post pictures of the spark plugs later, they were pretty beat up and had nice sprinkles of white over black over brown over chalk... basically a full history of the 40,000 miles but who knows which layer of deposites are what's current.
The reason I performed this test was due to almost hydro-locking the motor during the last big rains here in SoCal, the motor stalled as I rolled threw a river at 800rpm with the a/c on. It stalled quick enough where I didn't believe water made it's way into the cylinders, but didn't make the supercharger very happy. I waited 10 minutes, started the motor and she was fine but every time I went past part-throttle the engine would bog and I could hear water spraying out of the bypass valve. So I let it sit idle until it dried and it drove fine after that (I know most people would not do this but I saw Benson's deal on resleaving the motor and thought it was a perfect excuse if something did go wrong of course reality hit me when I got home and realized that I was married and had a mortgage)
Numbers with the throttle plate closed:
4 - 155
3 - 130
2 - 140
1 - 139
So I'm thinking I'll skip the re-test with the throttle plate open and just do a leak-down instead, since I'm borrowing the test equipment any way and have a decent compressor.
Should I have expected such shitty numbers with the throttle plate closed or should they have been a little higher? Also should the numbers still have been more consistant regardless of the throttle position?
I searched for a compression how-to and found the c-speedracing one, but how about a leak down. I don't want to perform the leak-down just miss some small part of the test and make the numbers useless again.
Thanks, and I finally put new spark plugs in there and the car almost flew
I guess I should change them more often than every 40,000 miles.I'll post pictures of the spark plugs later, they were pretty beat up and had nice sprinkles of white over black over brown over chalk... basically a full history of the 40,000 miles but who knows which layer of deposites are what's current.
The reason I performed this test was due to almost hydro-locking the motor during the last big rains here in SoCal, the motor stalled as I rolled threw a river at 800rpm with the a/c on. It stalled quick enough where I didn't believe water made it's way into the cylinders, but didn't make the supercharger very happy. I waited 10 minutes, started the motor and she was fine but every time I went past part-throttle the engine would bog and I could hear water spraying out of the bypass valve. So I let it sit idle until it dried and it drove fine after that (I know most people would not do this but I saw Benson's deal on resleaving the motor and thought it was a perfect excuse if something did go wrong of course reality hit me when I got home and realized that I was married and had a mortgage)
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