Rear Parking Brake on a Drum Equipped EF. HOW TO REMOVE?
I have the front suspension completely out for overhaul. The Rear Trailing Arm and LCA Bolts are all loose, but removing the parking brake is where i'm lost. I'm sure it's pretty easy. Is it at the parking brake handle?
OK, I think it's the same. i just have a manual for the disc brakes and wasn't sure, but it's seems equally the same. The question now is how to removing it from the backing plate.
Correct
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fourthgenhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Removing/Installing Trailing Arms
The actual removal and installation of everything is pretty straightforward and simple, it's just very time consuming and a lot of work. Prepare for downtime. If you need your car for anything important be prepared as there can always be unexpected delays.
First step is to remove your center console so you have access to you ebrake cables. Use a wrench and turn the nut until it comes completely off the long threaded post.


With those cables release they are now free for you to pull out from below the car later on. Now comes the more difficult part. Jack up the car and support it with jackstands. You might want to jack it up on each side and use 4 stands that way you will have more room underneath to work on the car. With the car supported and the wheels off climb under the car to where you see the edge of the gas tank closest to the front of the car. Remove the heat shiled there (right above the exhaust), it is held on with 4 bolts. You may want to remove the exhaust to make it easier to work, I didn't have to however. With the heat shield removed you have now exposed the plate with a rubber grommet where the ebrake cables are going into. Now you might want to remove the 4 bolts that hold the cables to the chassis (2 for each cable). The left side cable's bolts are pretty easy to get to so undo those. Next you will want to do the other side. This is the hardest part of the whole thing. One of the bolts is about half way hidden behind the gas tank. So now you have a few options. If you are somehow able to bend the lip on the gas tank you could have good access to this bolt. However without a lift this is very hard. So while you are under the car you can't go that far. So what I did was use a dremel and dremel off the metal around the bolt. There is about a 1'' lip on the tank, so don't think you are cutting right into your tank or anything. Hack away the metal around the bolt until you are able to fit a wrench up there. Use the flare nut wrench if you can because you really don't want to chance stripping this bolt. So once you have cut enough off then remove the 2 bolts holding that cable. Now you can get out from under the car and move onto the Trailing Arms.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fourthgenhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Removing/Installing Trailing Arms
The actual removal and installation of everything is pretty straightforward and simple, it's just very time consuming and a lot of work. Prepare for downtime. If you need your car for anything important be prepared as there can always be unexpected delays.
First step is to remove your center console so you have access to you ebrake cables. Use a wrench and turn the nut until it comes completely off the long threaded post.


With those cables release they are now free for you to pull out from below the car later on. Now comes the more difficult part. Jack up the car and support it with jackstands. You might want to jack it up on each side and use 4 stands that way you will have more room underneath to work on the car. With the car supported and the wheels off climb under the car to where you see the edge of the gas tank closest to the front of the car. Remove the heat shiled there (right above the exhaust), it is held on with 4 bolts. You may want to remove the exhaust to make it easier to work, I didn't have to however. With the heat shield removed you have now exposed the plate with a rubber grommet where the ebrake cables are going into. Now you might want to remove the 4 bolts that hold the cables to the chassis (2 for each cable). The left side cable's bolts are pretty easy to get to so undo those. Next you will want to do the other side. This is the hardest part of the whole thing. One of the bolts is about half way hidden behind the gas tank. So now you have a few options. If you are somehow able to bend the lip on the gas tank you could have good access to this bolt. However without a lift this is very hard. So while you are under the car you can't go that far. So what I did was use a dremel and dremel off the metal around the bolt. There is about a 1'' lip on the tank, so don't think you are cutting right into your tank or anything. Hack away the metal around the bolt until you are able to fit a wrench up there. Use the flare nut wrench if you can because you really don't want to chance stripping this bolt. So once you have cut enough off then remove the 2 bolts holding that cable. Now you can get out from under the car and move onto the Trailing Arms.</TD></TR></TABLE>
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