wheel hop
polyurethane radius rod bushings. They hold your tires inplace much better than the stock rubber bushings. They aren't expensive either, only $19 from TAS. And with some basic tools you can have this done in an hour probably, I don't really know but it won't take you long at all.
no, by motor mount inserts he means polyurethane inserts that are molded so the slip into the motor mount and hold you motor inplace better. They look like this.

Or you can make your own with 3M window weld by packing the motor mount with the 3M product and wait for it to solidify. If you run a search either here on H-T or on google you'll find a site that has a step by step on how to do it.
Or you can make your own with 3M window weld by packing the motor mount with the 3M product and wait for it to solidify. If you run a search either here on H-T or on google you'll find a site that has a step by step on how to do it.
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i suggest better tires still...
i have poly radiusrod bushings, poly sway bushings, solid front torque mount, sleeves lowered about 2.5" and agx(set 4/8)... and i still got the hop sometimes. now with my new tires, never.
i have poly radiusrod bushings, poly sway bushings, solid front torque mount, sleeves lowered about 2.5" and agx(set 4/8)... and i still got the hop sometimes. now with my new tires, never.
correct me if I'm wrong but I thought...
Wheel hop was from play (front-back) in the suspension resulting from worn bushings and such. Wouldn't better tires generally give more grip causing the tires to exploit the play in the suspension more? Causing more wheel hop?
When I had the front suspension all apart to replace the subframe, I replaced the radius rod bushings with poly ones (since I distroyed one side from hitting the curb) and also put a poly insert in the front motor mount. Aside from putting new Kumho tires on, everything else was put back just the way it was before. Except now I didn't have any wheel hop like I did before hitting the curb. The tires I had before the Kumho were good tires so I wouldn't say I upgraded the tires.
I guess I just assumed the better traction was due to the poly bushings for the radius rod which hold the tire from moving front-back. Am I correct in my thought or am I wrong?
Wheel hop was from play (front-back) in the suspension resulting from worn bushings and such. Wouldn't better tires generally give more grip causing the tires to exploit the play in the suspension more? Causing more wheel hop?
When I had the front suspension all apart to replace the subframe, I replaced the radius rod bushings with poly ones (since I distroyed one side from hitting the curb) and also put a poly insert in the front motor mount. Aside from putting new Kumho tires on, everything else was put back just the way it was before. Except now I didn't have any wheel hop like I did before hitting the curb. The tires I had before the Kumho were good tires so I wouldn't say I upgraded the tires.
I guess I just assumed the better traction was due to the poly bushings for the radius rod which hold the tire from moving front-back. Am I correct in my thought or am I wrong?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">correct me if I'm wrong but I thought...
Wheel hop was from play (front-back) in the suspension resulting from worn bushings and such. Wouldn't better tires generally give more grip causing the tires to exploit the play in the suspension more? Causing more wheel hop?
When I had the front suspension all apart to replace the subframe, I replaced the radius rod bushings with poly ones (since I distroyed one side from hitting the curb) and also put a poly insert in the front motor mount. Aside from putting new Kumho tires on, everything else was put back just the way it was before. Except now I didn't have any wheel hop like I did before hitting the curb. The tires I had before the Kumho were good tires so I wouldn't say I upgraded the tires.
I guess I just assumed the better traction was due to the poly bushings for the radius rod which hold the tire from moving front-back. Am I correct in my thought or am I wrong?</TD></TR></TABLE>
you're right about why the wheel hop occurs, and a.f.a.i.k., you're right about how you corrected it.
how to correct it; i've been told to soften up the front suspension and run stickier tires. if you can get the front end to hook up, then it will hop less. as is, if i launch hard, i'll wheel hop through the 1/8th mile then hook up.
traction bars are also an option, but they limit your suspension travel (droop-wise) and make all sorts of ungodly noises.
Wheel hop was from play (front-back) in the suspension resulting from worn bushings and such. Wouldn't better tires generally give more grip causing the tires to exploit the play in the suspension more? Causing more wheel hop?
When I had the front suspension all apart to replace the subframe, I replaced the radius rod bushings with poly ones (since I distroyed one side from hitting the curb) and also put a poly insert in the front motor mount. Aside from putting new Kumho tires on, everything else was put back just the way it was before. Except now I didn't have any wheel hop like I did before hitting the curb. The tires I had before the Kumho were good tires so I wouldn't say I upgraded the tires.
I guess I just assumed the better traction was due to the poly bushings for the radius rod which hold the tire from moving front-back. Am I correct in my thought or am I wrong?</TD></TR></TABLE>
you're right about why the wheel hop occurs, and a.f.a.i.k., you're right about how you corrected it.
how to correct it; i've been told to soften up the front suspension and run stickier tires. if you can get the front end to hook up, then it will hop less. as is, if i launch hard, i'll wheel hop through the 1/8th mile then hook up.
traction bars are also an option, but they limit your suspension travel (droop-wise) and make all sorts of ungodly noises.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iakona »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">traction bars are also an option </TD></TR></TABLE>
Traction bars for Accords? I didn't know they made that for Accords. I know they make traction bars for Civic's and Integra's which acts just like the front subframe beam and radius rods on Accords.
Traction bars for Accords? I didn't know they made that for Accords. I know they make traction bars for Civic's and Integra's which acts just like the front subframe beam and radius rods on Accords.
personaly i would not use the inserts they will still leave a gap in the inserts, may fix the wheel hop problem but not the best solution.
What i did was buy some flexane urithane (94 shore) from the local granger store and filled all of my mounts for about 35$, also using this method will also repair any broken motor mounts, I had 2 mounts that the rubber in them mas completely un attatached, the inserts will not fix this problem.
If you want any help doing this i will be glad to post instructions on how to do it.
What i did was buy some flexane urithane (94 shore) from the local granger store and filled all of my mounts for about 35$, also using this method will also repair any broken motor mounts, I had 2 mounts that the rubber in them mas completely un attatached, the inserts will not fix this problem.
If you want any help doing this i will be glad to post instructions on how to do it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by srfnscubamunkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">personaly i would not use the inserts they will still leave a gap in the inserts, may fix the wheel hop problem but not the best solution.
What i did was buy some flexane urithane (94 shore) from the local granger store and filled all of my mounts for about 35$, also using this method will also repair any broken motor mounts, I had 2 mounts that the rubber in them mas completely un attatached, the inserts will not fix this problem.
If you want any help doing this i will be glad to post instructions on how to do it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I did the urethane thing and the inserts. Im using the inserts now. They work way better. My motor wont budge all the way to 7600 (I wastched it on the dyno). It does vibrate alot though. When i filled them with urethane it didnt vibrate near as much.
What i did was buy some flexane urithane (94 shore) from the local granger store and filled all of my mounts for about 35$, also using this method will also repair any broken motor mounts, I had 2 mounts that the rubber in them mas completely un attatached, the inserts will not fix this problem.
If you want any help doing this i will be glad to post instructions on how to do it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I did the urethane thing and the inserts. Im using the inserts now. They work way better. My motor wont budge all the way to 7600 (I wastched it on the dyno). It does vibrate alot though. When i filled them with urethane it didnt vibrate near as much.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_evil2005 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, newbie question--> what is wheel hop???</TD></TR></TABLE>
still don't know what it is
still don't know what it is
and about filling the mounts with urithnane, my motor no longer moves no matter how hard i push it or rev it but u can feel it at idle (shakes the whole car) but under full throtle the vibrations reverberate through the whole frame and body and makes it sound intemidationg as hell
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_evil2005 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, newbie question--> what is wheel hop???</TD></TR></TABLE>
go rev you car up to the rev limiter and launch, come back and tell us what happened
go rev you car up to the rev limiter and launch, come back and tell us what happened
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_evil2005 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">still don't know what it is</TD></TR></TABLE>
When you peel out in your car from a dead stop, your wheel literally hops for a short distance. This is recognized from the cab as a shuddering and hard vibration. Usually a symptom of stock supension and bushings.
Stiffer suspension and bushings can hold the tire to the ground more effectively than the stock components.
When you peel out in your car from a dead stop, your wheel literally hops for a short distance. This is recognized from the cab as a shuddering and hard vibration. Usually a symptom of stock supension and bushings.
Stiffer suspension and bushings can hold the tire to the ground more effectively than the stock components.
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