I got New Exhaust system, New CAT CONVERTER, New spark . New oil change, New O2, and did my first smog and it failed. I was thinking of smogging the stock engine before I put the b18c gsr in. So then i dont have to deal with it.

But it failed. I asked why did it fail, the guy didn't tell me anything. All he said was, you could come back again for a pre test . . blah blah blah.

It was my first time so i didn't really know what the result means.

Could anyone tell me what it means? and what i numbers do i need to be at to pass?

Here how it looks, Sorry about the blurry . . scanner broke . . using digital camera.



sorry about the cut off of the left mph. But it reads on the first mph is 15 and the second one is 25mph.

Any comments, suggestions, clariflying will help. Thanks alot

 

you smogged a B18C (meaning jspec) engine in CALIFORNIA and you wonder why you failed?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lazynok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you smogged a B18C (meaning jspec) engine in CALIFORNIA and you wonder why you failed?</TD></TR></TABLE>

READING COMPREHENSION OWNZ YOU!!!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SexyAzNMami &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was thinking of smogging the stock engine before I put the b18c gsr in. So then i dont have to deal with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Was this your HF or SI that you tried to smog? i'm guessing it was your HF since that's what you wanted to swap the B18C into right? Right before you smogged it did you let it sit for a while? or did you run the car hard to get the cat hot?


EDIT: Just by looking at the chart I'm guessing that you NOx (nitrogen levels) are too high. Check out the thread in the link below. If you ran too low an octane level your NOx might be too high. Also I think if your cat and O2 sensor aren't hot enough, it might contribute to your high NOx levels (I'm not 100% sure about this though). Usually when you go in to smog your car, you wanna run the car hard so that the cat is fully warmed up.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=912977



Modified by BlueShadow at 5:14 PM 11/18/2004

 

You didn't fail by a whole lot. I had failed by having my "NO" too high one time and it was because my timing was advanced. Have you check your ignition timing? Also, did you drive it around for 45 minutes to heat up the cat converter before you tested it?

Are you running a stock computer? Have you tried running a lower octane. One time I passed an emissions test only because I put in 87 octane instead of 91. REmember that the higher the octane reading the more resistant to detonation it is therefore the 87 might have a more "complete" burn allowing you to pass.

 

you failed nox


SIGH, lots of hondas alwyas have HIGH NOX
nox= combustion temps of over 2500 degrees, when it reachs 2500 degrees, nitrogen and oxygen make a baby called nox which is part of photochemical smog

did u pass ur timing check? if its to advanced it will raise combustion temps and raise nox, but if u passed ur timing check then thats not a factor

hows ur cooilng system? ur car's temp is in the middle right? if so should be fine

u replaced cat and that shows on the graph its working good,

seafoam ur engine...u can ask for it at ur local pepboys all though i dont think they have it go to napa auto parts store they alwyas have it

seafoam de-carbonizes(sp) the engine

carbon build up in a engine artifically raises compression and as we know raising compression cause's heat thus causing nox

if ur cooling system/timing is fine/ then id de carbon the engine

im pretty sure if u do it u wil pass so grab a bottle and spray away read the instructions carefully or have ur b/f do it

btw: im a smog tech in cali so if u have any more questions just PM me

 

I asked my friend and he said, probably your gas is too rich. And he said behind the manifold is a adjustable **** where u can adjust the ratio of how much is coming in. I bought a new Fuel filter and thermostat. Also bought a can of carb spray and sprayed the Fuel injection to clean it out.

Everything is good now. But the ratio adjustment. Does anyone know where that is located at? I was told buy a professional at auto zone that if I adjust the **** it will help me save more gas and be able to pass smog.

This is the Crx HF. Gonna pass smog with the d15b2. Can't even do **** with the gsr right now. it sits on five 4x4 in the garage. Still asking around for someone to do it for me. Placed a order for my obd conversion harness, and the hasport shift linkage kit for 640. anyways . .

so where is the adjustable ****?




Modified by SexyAzNMami at 9:03 PM 11/18/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SexyAzNMami &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I asked my friend and he said, probably your gas is too rich. And he said behind the manifold is a adjustable **** where u can adjust the ratio of how much is coming in.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

If he is talking about the screw on the throttle body than... NO. It will now adjust your fuel ratio. I do not know of any method dealing with the intake manifold that adjust your fuel ratio. It is set in your ECU. It cannot be "adjust" without a piggyback or a standalone

Was the cat HOT when your test your car? Seafoam the car as mention.

 

Throw in some GOOD fuel system cleaner. My numbers were damn near exact to those with my old SOHC. Mine had some carbon build up and i was able to get rid of it using som GM fuel system cleaner. Dont mess with ur timing, its perfect at 14 degrees when dealing with high NoX. Good luck.

BTW, whats this talk about a carb?

 

A person From Honda tech told me to get seafoam from a NAPA shop and de - carbonize the engine.

Tried every damn thing already. it is really difficult to get a girl pissed. But lol i am at that stage. I'm returning to that smog shop tomorrow and I WILL PASS!!!!

if i don't, screw the smogging. LOL lots of people drive witout their car being smogged.!!!

 

[QUOTE=fourthgenhatchB17]Throw in some GOOD fuel system cleaner. My numbers were damn near exact to those with my old SOHC. Mine had some carbon build up and i was able to get rid of it using som<U> GM fuel system cleaner</U>. QUOTE]

I'm a GM Tech, and this stuff works great! And the seafoam too!

 

Pull the timing back and retest before trying other stuff.

You also need to put about 100 miles on a cat.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eHoward &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pull the timing back...You also need to put about 100 miles on a cat</TD></TR></TABLE>

Timing cant be pulled any more, its already at 14 degrees. Any less than that is out of spec, and you FAIL right away. I dont know about the cat idea...i had a new cat put on my truck right before a test and it passed with flying colors. It maybe had 1.5 miles on it

 

The person who said that running rich would increase the cylinder temps... I thought it was the other way around. I melted pistons when my mixture was too lean.

Does it go both ways?

 

Some gauge manufacturers say you should tune to achieve maximum or peak EGT for maximum performance. This is incorrect. Peak EGT generally occurs at an AFR of around 14.7- 15.0 to 1 on gasoline. This is far too lean for maximum power and is dangerous under continuous WOT conditions. Many people think that the leaner you go, the higher the EGT gets. This is also incorrect. Peak EGT occurs at stoichiometry- about 15 to 1 for our purposes. If you go richer than 15 to 1, EGT will drop and if you go leaner than 15 to 1 EGT will ALSO drop. It is VERY important to know which side of peak EGT you are on before making adjustments. It is safe to say that peak power will occur at an EGT somewhat colder than peak EGT.

You can sometimes feel a lean of peak condition as the mixture is hard to ignite and power will be down a bit as well. Once the AFR gets close to 17 to 1 at WOT, generally the engine will start to lean misfire. Most tuners always recommend to begin jetting or programming from a known very rich initial setting and carefully leaning until torque falls off slightly, then going back richer to the point of max torque. Note the EGT at this setting. Be aware that altitude, barometric pressure and ambient air temperature may affect this optimal temperature to some degree.

 

Do they really check the timing out there? Wow, you guys need to get some better legislation.

You might be right about the break in. I was told to break cats in before testing by a couple of mechanics that do emissions testing for a living. That doesnt make it right, but it does make some sense to me that you might want to bring it up to temp a couple times before testing it. Kind of like bedding in new brake pads. I also dont think 100 miles (half a tank of gas) is going to hurt anything.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatchB17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Timing cant be pulled any more, its already at 14 degrees. Any less than that is out of spec, and you FAIL right away. I dont know about the cat idea...i had a new cat put on my truck right before a test and it passed with flying colors. It maybe had 1.5 miles on it </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

just went and passed mine this mornin. put my cat back in and reset me ecu and set timing to stock and still failed . then i remembered i havent drove my car in a week .i went to wal-mart bought some 99% alcohol and stopped by bp and got 1/2 tank of 93 octane and poured the alcohol in and dogged the crap outta it for like 20 minutes . pulled back in and the same guy comes up and says "weren`t u just here " i smiled and said "test me dude " . passed with flying colors . at 1st i had 481 ppm hc and they allow 220 , i had .82 ppm co they allow 1.20 . after i retested i had 24 ppm hc and .02 co . so yes a hot cat makes a big difference

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SexyAzNMami &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A person From Honda tech told me to get seafoam from a NAPA shop and de - carbonize the engine.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do a search on seafoam before you start using it, you can use water to clean your engine out and it works just as good as seafoam.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do a search on seafoam before you start using it, you can use water to clean your engine out and it works just as good as seafoam.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That would help with the throttle body and cylinders, but some Seafoam, Regane, or RXP in the tank will also help with the injectors. Of course, if your injectors are clogged, maybe having them pulled and balanced would be better.

 

damn i would hate to live in cali

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueShadow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">READING COMPREHENSION OWNZ YOU!!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i guess

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lazynok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you smogged a B18C (meaning jspec) engine in CALIFORNIA and you wonder why you failed?</TD></TR></TABLE>

LAMO

 

arent there ways to make the j spec b18c pass smog