Like the topic says, I'm debating whether to buy an aftermarket flywheel or just to get my OEM ITR fw shaved. Wouldn't shaving my fw to weigh-in the same as the ACT Prolite fw equal the same result ??

 

You can only shave off so much weight (Safely) from the stock flywheel.

Lightweight flywheels are made of lighter matierals AFAIK, which is how they can weight 1/2 the weight of the stock flywheel.

 

Yea, you can get lightweight flywheels at 7-8.8 pounds for the common light ones. I don't know how much, but i'm pretty sure you can't shave it down enough to get close to that number.

 

Comptech AL Flywheel and not one regret.
If you can afford it, do it.

 

Why do you want a lighter flywheel? You will lose torque with a lighter flywheel and they are not streetable.

Bat - who is adding to the recent glut of un-moderated misinformation in this forum.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iperez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Like the topic says, I'm debating whether to buy an aftermarket flywheel or just to get my OEM ITR fw shaved. Wouldn't shaving my fw to weigh-in the same as the ACT Prolite fw equal the same result ?? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Someone should know just har far down you can take an OEM flywheel and still be safe, but I'm pretty sure it is not 8lbs or less. Probably not even close.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Batoutahell &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why do you want a lighter flywheel? You will lose torque with a lighter flywheel and they are not streetable.

Bat - who is adding to the recent glut of un-moderated misinformation in this forum.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You will lose kinetic energy with a lighter flywheel, but you'll be able to accelerate quicker with a lighter flywheel. Good for autox/track, bad for drag racing.

How does torque figure in?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You will lose kinetic energy with a lighter flywheel, but you'll be able to accelerate quicker with a lighter flywheel. Good for autox/track, bad for drag racing.

How does torque figure in?</TD></TR></TABLE>


I think he was making a JOKE... read again.

 

I've done both and would advise to go with the ACT Prolite. I had the oem flywheel mass reduced by a local and reputable machine shop a couple years ago and they could safely remove only about 3-4 lbs. Not really worth it in my opinion. I believe the problem with removing a lot of mass from the oem is that it seriously compromises the structural integrity of the flywheel. Just go with something already light and engineered to withstand the stresses it will encounter.

 

do not lighten your stock flywheel if done wrong or too much material is taken off it will crack or warp and then you can have some big problems

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr2slo4u &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do not lighten your stock flywheel if done wrong or too much material is taken off it will crack or warp <FONT COLOR="blue">and then you can have some big problems</FONT></TD></TR></TABLE>

That depends upon whether your passenger at the time is someone you like or not.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Batoutahell &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why do you want a lighter flywheel? You will lose torque with a lighter flywheel and they are not streetable.

Bat - who is adding to the recent glut of un-moderated misinformation in this forum.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Adding to this thought..

i also know that with a lighter flywheel, you will destroy your transmission prematurely because of the vibrations it sends throughout the transmission housing. it actually causes all the bearings, primarily the outer ones to ruin, then explode once the bearings are loose enough....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 255.255.255.255 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Adding to this thought..

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your screen name sucks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


I think he was making a JOKE... read again.</TD></TR></TABLE>

And here I was trying to add valuable information. Shame on me.

 

Hmm.. I guess I now have more to think about .. I would like to think that an aftermarket fw is the way to go but I do drag more than circuit and I also daily-drive the car in gridlock every now and then .. I guess I'll do a little more research .. thanks for the info !!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 255.255.255.255 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i also know that with a lighter flywheel, you will destroy your transmission prematurely because of the vibrations it sends throughout the transmission housing. it actually causes all the bearings, primarily the outer ones to ruin, then explode once the bearings are loose enough.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

um...that's where the clutch springs come into play....where did j00 get that info from?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 255.255.255.255 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Adding to this thought..

i also know that with a lighter flywheel, you will destroy your transmission prematurely because of the vibrations it sends throughout the transmission housing. it actually causes all the bearings, primarily the outer ones to ruin, then explode once the bearings are loose enough.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

GTFO!

&lt;--Who hopes Tom is adding to the misinformation pile on purpose.

 

normal font! NICE!

 

Shaddup you

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1GreyTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Your screen name sucks. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought it was kinda neat. Broadcast IP. Just like my location used to be 127.0.0.1...the loopback IP address.

 

From my experience you can shave a oem b16 or b18c flywheel down to 10.5 pounds and that is about it. Less and you compromise strength and durability.
So it is up to you if you think it´s worth it.

 

I am not a fan of light flywheels. all the people i suggested going back to stock loved me for the advice. in our motors we need the momentum of the weight to get the assmebly spinning and keep the revs up. Momentum does alot for us believe it or not in these little hamster driven motors. Lightweight fly's though are good for quick pick up for lightly modded cars. They feel a diff , but in the long run the heavier ones are better. I would deff not go too light. If you are gonna do it comprimise and go with the Chromoly ACT its like 12lbs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr206 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I would deff not go too light. If you are gonna do it comprimise and go with the Chromoly ACT its like 12lbs</TD></TR></TABLE>

very good advice.
I've run a number of different weights with NA, turbo, and supercharged Hondas and so far it seems that 12-14lbs is perfect for a street driven car. The 7.8lb was too difficult to launch, while the stock 18lb took forever for it to decelerate.

I wouldn't take anything off your stock ITR unit, as it's just a lightened P30 flywheel already machined damn close to it's max. Spend the extra coin on an ACT streetlite, and you won't be disappointed.

 

i stuck with stock ITR wheel in my car, and just kept getting it resurfaced. I have no complaints