jus finished swapping a d16z6 into my 90 crx si, and im staying OBD0 cuz i dont have the time/money to go OBD1 yet. so im using the stock d16a6 distributor on the z6, but even after notching the distributor legs crucially, timing is still like maybe 10 degrees retarded. i have the distributor so advanced (turned towards the front of the car) that now only one of the legs line up. i checked cam/crank timing and everything is fine there.

did anyone else have this problem? how much did you have to turn your a6 distributor for timing to be normal? any possible problems that would cause this?

also, if i have to turn the distributor more, i might have to end up either rewelding the legs or making an adaptor plate...anyone tried that before? pics?

thanks

 

ttt

 

Did you let the car warm up before messing with the dizzy's timing?

I have the same setup, and all i did was tighten it, let it warm up, and then time.
I had to only move it about less than an inch, and im only holding it with one screw because the others dont match (the top one)

also if it idles high, check that screw on the throttle body that lets air in onto the intake, i also had to mess with that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JoseDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you let the car warm up before messing with the dizzy's timing?

I have the same setup, and all i did was tighten it, let it warm up, and then time.
I had to only move it about less than an inch, and im only holding it with one screw because the others dont match (the top one)

also if it idles high, check that screw on the throttle body that lets air in onto the intake, i also had to mess with that. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yea, i let the car warm up completely before messing with the ignition timing. it was actually idling pretty high at first, like around 1100-1200, and i had to tighten the screw on the throttle body all the way to get a decent idle around 800 rpms. but it still fluctuates from 800-1100 rpms, and i dont have any vacuum leaks. a problem might be that im using the map sensor on the throttle body but the purge solenoid valve on the firewall...but it should be straight!

thats crazy, you only had to move it an inch! i wonder why the heck my distributor is turned almost 45 degrees and timing is still off!

 

i did'nt have any problems. i notched all three of my legs and still only the top one is actually in a bolt hole. brackets have been made let me find the thread.

 

look at the pics in this thread and make sure you're lined up correctly.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=913151

 

Did you put a jumper (paper clip) in the service connector under the glove box before checking/setting your ignition timing?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr. carpenter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">look at the pics in this thread and make sure you're lined up correctly.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=913151</TD></TR></TABLE>

lined up correctly? i mean my distributor doesnt line up like that one at all, its turned much more towards the firewall. if i set it like it shows in the thread, timing is set so it sparks way before cylinder 1 is at TDC.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4drEF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you put a jumper (paper clip) in the service connector under the glove box before checking/setting your ignition timing?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea i did, its the blue two pin connector right? i jumped it before checking ignition timing...

THIS SUX

 

i would say your timing in the motor is off then. mine timed pretty well. if you look at the pics, both of our dist. have the square side facing up. that was the only way i could get it to fire. also if you could get ahold of the housing for an obd1 dist. you could swap out all the internals.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr. carpenter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would say your timing in the motor is off then. mine timed pretty well. if you look at the pics, both of our dist. have the square side facing up. that was the only way i could get it to fire. also if you could get ahold of the housing for an obd1 dist. you could swap out all the internals.</TD></TR></TABLE>

****...when the crank pulley mark shows TDC, the cam timing is dead on...how else can i check timing?

also, when you say swap out all the internals, does that mean just the igniter and ignition coil? or EVERYTHING inside?

 

are you using the cam timing marks on the rim of the pulley or the mark by the woodruff key? also how did you line up the cam pulley? it's NOT supposed to be flush with the head on the z6 like most other . there is a lone mark on the pulley and it needs to point to the pointer on the back piece of the timing belt cover,below the pulley. on swapping dist. i mean all the internals. gotta go to work hope you get it going.

 

i lined the crank pulley by the lone mark on the pulley and the mark on bottom timing cover. how would i line up the crank by the woodruff key?

 

the lone mark on the crank pulley should line up with the woodruff key and it's mark. behind the crank pulley on the block there is an arrow that the woodruff is supposed to line up with. it sounds like you've done everthing right. i would turn the dizzy to where the timing is on and mark the leg, then notch the legs however you need to, to bolt it down or make a bracket as you said. i know when i did my swap that all the searches i did said you had to cut off legs to get it to mount properly so it's not supposed to mount the way it would on an obd0 motor. i just thought it would be better to notch it out with a dremel than cut off legs. i still have timing adjustability. if you can get the timing nailed down by advancing or retarding more then you should be okay.