I guess the best way to ask this is to describe what i want to happen.

What happens::
Honda Crx: turn key to first notch (not starting car), stereo comes on...turn car on...stereo shuts of then starts up again.

What i want to happen::
Volkswagen Passat: turn key to first notch (not starting car), stereo comes on...turn car on...stereo does not restart

My thouhts are in accomplishing this are:
a) run power line off stereo to the car battery
b) install a second smaller battery dedicated to the stereo and attach either straight to the alternator or to existing battery.

Suggestions?


Modified by issues4 at 1:15 PM 11/16/2004

 

All you have to do is wire the acc. for the stereo to both acc., [where it is now] and to true ign., you will have to install 5amp diodes off both acc. and ign. to isolate them from each other, this will alow the HU to come on in the keys acc. pos., [1st notch like it does now] stay on in ign. and start pos. [ 2nd and 3rd notchs] or is the NATCHOS lol. 94

 

You are obviously an electrical genius haha. So i'm gonna need you to break it down for me a tad bit more (with no abbreviations ). All i know is what the power chord is for the stereo, never taken apart the ignition before.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> All you have to do is wire the acc. for the stereo to both acc., [where it is now] and to true ign., </TD></TR></TABLE>

So i just split the power wire going to the stereo and run it to the ignition. Will it be obvious which part to wire to attach it too in the ignition.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you will have to install 5amp diodes off both acc. and ign. to isolate them from each other</TD></TR></TABLE>

diodes, what are those? i can get them at radio shack?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">, this will alow the HU to come on in the keys acc. pos., [1st notch like it does now] stay on in ign. and start pos. [ 2nd and 3rd notchs] or is the NATCHOS lol. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

HU = head unit

Thanks now i just gotta understand it :D

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> All you have to do is wire the acc. for the stereo to both acc., [where it is now] and to true ign., you will have to install 5amp diodes off both acc. and ign. to isolate them from each other, this will alow the HU to come on in the keys acc. pos., [1st notch like it does now] stay on in ign. and start pos. [ 2nd and 3rd notchs] or is the NATCHOS lol. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

laymans terms:
1. split the RED wire into two RED WIRES.

2. keep one of the RED wires hooked up to where it is now. put on a DIODE with the silver band facing toward the deck. Diodes are those small black cylinder things with a silver band on top. Do the same with the other wire. This will keep the True Ignition wire from getting power when you have it in the ACC position.

3. then run the other wire ( you split the RED wire so now you have two remember?) to what we installers call a TRUE IGNITION WIRE (test for it by turning on the car to the IGN setting and then cranking it, the test light should not turn off. It may dim slightly but thats ok)
4. now it works..dont try to understand..just know that it works ..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSP &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

laymans terms:
1. split the RED wire into two RED WIRES.

2. keep one of the RED wires hooked up to where it is now. put on a DIODE with the silver band facing toward the deck. Diodes are those small black cylinder things with a silver band on top. Do the same with the other wire. This will keep the True Ignition wire from getting power when you have it in the ACC position.

3. then run the other wire ( you split the RED wire so now you have two remember?) to what we installers call a TRUE IGNITION WIRE (test for it by turning on the car to the IGN setting and then cranking it, the test light should not turn off. It may dim slightly but thats ok)
4. now it works..dont try to understand..just know that it works .. </TD></TR></TABLE>TY, as good a "laymans" exp. as I could give w/o abrv. lol 94

 

thank you sir(s).

all makes sense now...i'm assuming a DIODE is sort of like a "one way traffic sign" for the current. Good stuff....

Oh one last Q...so when i pull the steering column apart...will it be pretty obvious which wire is the "TRUE IGNITION WIRE", i've never taken apart the ignition before.

 

You do not need to take apart the steering column, you will find the "true ign." at the fuse box, you may have to remove the lower dash trim , on Hondas it is almost always a black/yellow wire, [ sometimes black/red] test it, and is found in a brown 6pin plug clipped to the top of the fuse box, [ almost alwaya brown plug] not hard to find, it is at the end of the harness that runs from the ign. switch, and I think on the CRX there is a plug about 8 to 10 inchs down the steering column from the ign. switch that has all the wires from and to the ign. switch in it. 94