If you have it done I would love to see it, and if there has to be mods to do It, I would love to know what it is that has to be done

 

I think his name is BabyNSX. He has some on his ITR and it looks damn good. They do fit, but you have to use the front rims and they are expensive as hell from what I have heard.

 

Ummmmmm, I think I already said that!

 

Don't the Realtime Racing Comptech ITR's run NSX rims that are powerdercoated white? I remember seeing that somewhere. ?

 

The offset on the NSX fronts is 55 mm, and 60 mm on the NSX rears. On the R it's 50 mm.

There is a MAJOR problem in using the NSX fronts, though. The center bore doesn't match. The bore hole diameter on the NSX fronts is 70 mm. On the NSX rears it's 64 mm, same as the R. Don't use the NSX front wheels on the ITR unless you get hubcentric rings to adjust for the bore hole, otherwise you'll run into problems because the lugs will be supporting all the lateral stresses on the wheels, which they're not designed to do.

 

Yes, NSX fronts do fit! Here are the details:

Stock vs. NSX fronts (need to use 4 NSX fronts)

- Stock bore size is 64mm NSX bore size is 70mm. I use a centering ring to make up the difference; this is a common practice with aftermarket wheels.

- Bolt pattern is the same

- Stock 16" offset is 50mm NSX offset is 55mm. A 5mm spacer could be used but I don't. I run 215x45x16 MXX3s and do not experience any rubbing.

I'll try to get a picture up later today.

EDIT: And I wrote this at the same time as NSXTCJR

Regards,



[Modified by BABY NSX, 6:04 AM 12/27/2001]

 

Those s2000 wheels look real nice

 

Complete hogwash!!! The load isn't carried by the studs once the wheel is tightened. The friction between the wheel surface and the rotor are where the load is and it would take more force than any normal driving or racing could generate to cause the studs to fail. Tons and tons of people use non hub centric wheels which have incorrect center bores for racing purposes and have no problems breaking studs.

Case in point, how many people on this list use Mazda Millenia wheels? They have the wrong center bore too and I don't hear about people breaking studs because of that.

I wish I still had the article. An engineer posted the formula and the incredible amount of force required to overcome the friction between the wheel and rotor when torqued to say 80 ft/lbs. I think his correlation was that you'd probably end up breaking suspension components before you'd start overloading that friction surface and spreading the load to the studs.

 

Ah yes, once again, theory beats out experience. Right?

Uh... Wanna see some cracked Kosei K1's? Ditch the hubcentric ring and go road racing.

Warren

 

Maybe on a Hype R. On one of our supra drag cars I was mounting up the slicks and skinnies and didn't use the hubcentric rings, well low and behold we got horrible vibration and couldn't figure out why, lugs where tight and everything was fine and dandy, when I took them off I noticed no hubcentric rings, put some in and bamn problem was solved, try and drive a car without them and it's a nightmare.

 

Doesnt a supra use legcentric mounting? I thought that was the reason
they used the shank style lugnuts.

 

I drove my car for nearly a year without any ill effects before I put on hubcentric rings. Even now, the rings I am using are plastic and I know they are not taking any appreaciable load. If they were they would surely have disintigrated by now. I use them simply to help me install the wheels.

I have heard from many credable sources that the loads are not transfered through the hub, and my experience with plastic rings would support this.

Regards,



[Modified by BABY NSX, 10:00 AM 12/27/2001]

 

I keep having to replace my crappy plastic hubcentric rings on my K1's. I have some that are cracked, warped, and kind of melted.

Drive harder

Seriously though, the only K1's that get cracked on the track are the ones w/o hubcentric rings. Ask Tom Fowler or Steve Colletti.

Warren

 

WTF do broken wheels have to do with the studs carrying load?!? Absolutely nothing!

The wheels may not be aligned correctly, but not running hub centering rings will *not* cause you to break studs because they don't carry load once the wheel is tightened!

 

They crack around the bolt holes and hub opening when you don't run the rings.

If you don't use the hubcentric rings, then your studs could very well be bearing the load. It's amazing how much abuse you can do to a wheel out on the track.

The only wheel stud I've EVER broken was on the wheel that had a severly warped hubcentric ring. Might be coincidence, but it might not be.

Pay the god damn $20 for the 4 rings and be done with it. It beats cracking a wheel or busting a stud.

Warren

 

Pic of my car as promised:

 

looks good . what size are they? 17?

 

Thanks! They are 4 front 16x7s available on the NSX in the years 1998 and up. 1997 had them painted grey like the Yellow and Black Rs. I preferred the clear coat finish of the newer wheels.

Regards,

 

are bigger pics available of S2000 rims on that ITR ?

 

No, 1997 was when they changed. 1994-1996 NSX wheels are Solaris Silver (gunmetal paint) and 1997-2001 NSX wheels are Blades Silver (bright clearcoat finish).

 

Without the hubcentric rings, you would definitely feel vibrations at high speeds and the possibility of damaging your wheels/studs. I've seen it happen...

 

That looks good

 

I'll take some please!!

 

You might be right. I thought I remembered seeing a 97 with those painted wheels but my mind often plays tricks on me.

To use rings or not? I do recommend (and use) them but my experience is that you can do without them in a pinch. My car saw some pretty serious speeds without them and I never felt the slightest vibration from the wheel (except when I warped my rotors at the track ). But I do feel better knowing the rings are there.

Regards,

 

From TireRack:

The centerbore of a wheel is the size of the machined hole on the back of the wheel that centers the wheel properly on the hub of the car. This hole is machined to exactly match the hub so the wheels are precisely positioned, minimizing the chance of a vibration. With a hubcentric wheel, the lug hardware will not be supporting the weight of the vehicle, all they really do is press the wheel against the hub of the car. Some wheels use high quality, forged centering rings that lock into place in the back of the wheel. This is acceptable alternative.

If you have non-hubcentric (lugcentric) wheels, they should be torqued correctly while the vehicle is still off of the ground so they center properly. The weight of the vehicle can push the wheel off-center slightly while you're tightening them down if left on the ground.