Battery Draining Rapidly While Car Off. How Do I Trace? Daily Driver
Basically my battery is just drianing and I cant have that as this is my daily driver
I startet it last night, ran fine for 15 min, turned it off and went home. Came back 13 hours later and there wa sa little juice but wouldnt start
Got jumped and it ran fine, turned it off and 3 hours later the car struggled to start because the battery was drained
How do I tell what is causing it? Its pissing me off and I dont want to disconnect the positive side of the battery every time I get out of the car....
Need some help on tracing or what common problem are, thanks
BTW- Car was broken into and stereo was cut form harness aswell as some lights, just installed angel eyes and sidemarkers but they only get power when the lights are on
LMK
Thanks
I startet it last night, ran fine for 15 min, turned it off and went home. Came back 13 hours later and there wa sa little juice but wouldnt start
Got jumped and it ran fine, turned it off and 3 hours later the car struggled to start because the battery was drained
How do I tell what is causing it? Its pissing me off and I dont want to disconnect the positive side of the battery every time I get out of the car....
Need some help on tracing or what common problem are, thanks
BTW- Car was broken into and stereo was cut form harness aswell as some lights, just installed angel eyes and sidemarkers but they only get power when the lights are on
LMK
Thanks
Disconnect the negative battery cable and connect a test light between it and the negative pole of the battery. The light should come on if there is a current draw.
Start pulling one fuse at a time and seeing if the light goes off. If not, put that fuse back in and go to the next one. Dont forget to do the under-dash fuse box as well as the under-hood fuses.
Once you find out which "circuit" the problem is on, its time to start tracing wires.
I had this same problem. Good luck!
Start pulling one fuse at a time and seeing if the light goes off. If not, put that fuse back in and go to the next one. Dont forget to do the under-dash fuse box as well as the under-hood fuses.
Once you find out which "circuit" the problem is on, its time to start tracing wires.
I had this same problem. Good luck!
That sucks. The stereo wires would be where I'd start (other than w/ Mr_CRX's suggestion cause it's a good one). You can pick up a cheap digital multimeter from ACE for like $10. This will show you the voltage drop across the battery terminals. If the voltage steadily drops when the car is not running, it is probably a constant power wire shorted against chassis ground. One bad thing that I've seen stereo installers do is run a constant power line from the battery right to the head unit if the head unit has a built in fuse. If that line ever hits chassis ground it's totally unfused. I was pissed off when I found a line like that in my car. I had that same problem in my track-car CRX when my AC controls fell into the dash turing a track session.
Good luck.
Good luck.
hmmmmm, doesnt sound to fun
But if I disconnect my positive everytime after the car was just running, it should start right back up in the morning right since there isnt anything to drain...
BUMP!
But if I disconnect my positive everytime after the car was just running, it should start right back up in the morning right since there isnt anything to drain...
BUMP!
try that, and if it still seems like your battery is weak, its most likley your alternator not recharging your battery as you drive. the jump can get your car started and keep your running, but then when you turn off, the battery is weak from not being recharge. This is how it happend to me so good luck!
~AMH
~AMH
Dunno where you're from...but over here it's getting cold.
Cold is bad for battery....winter eats batteries for breakfast.
So it could be your battery is old...and needs replacing. Test that first.
Cold is bad for battery....winter eats batteries for breakfast.
So it could be your battery is old...and needs replacing. Test that first.
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr_CRX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Disconnect the negative battery cable and connect a test light between it and the negative pole of the battery. The light should come on if there is a current draw.
Start pulling one fuse at a time and seeing if the light goes off. If not, put that fuse back in and go to the next one. Dont forget to do the under-dash fuse box as well as the under-hood fuses.
Once you find out which "circuit" the problem is on, its time to start tracing wires.
I had this same problem. Good luck!</TD></TR></TABLE>
great reply.. but it should be said that there are a couple circuits that are supposed to always draw a lil current.
1. Stereo memory.
2. ECU Hazard fuse for code memory etc.
if u remove either of those two and the light goes off i'd look at the wiring and then check into other areas.
what you SHOULD do is us a current meter to determine how much current is coming through. (amps). Both the ecu and the stereo should use little amerage while the car is off.
how much exactly? im not sure.. anyone?
Start pulling one fuse at a time and seeing if the light goes off. If not, put that fuse back in and go to the next one. Dont forget to do the under-dash fuse box as well as the under-hood fuses.
Once you find out which "circuit" the problem is on, its time to start tracing wires.
I had this same problem. Good luck!</TD></TR></TABLE>
great reply.. but it should be said that there are a couple circuits that are supposed to always draw a lil current.
1. Stereo memory.
2. ECU Hazard fuse for code memory etc.
if u remove either of those two and the light goes off i'd look at the wiring and then check into other areas.
what you SHOULD do is us a current meter to determine how much current is coming through. (amps). Both the ecu and the stereo should use little amerage while the car is off.
how much exactly? im not sure.. anyone?
But me pulling off the positive battery cable when I get out of the car is gonna work though right?
I should have had the car yesterday but I found a ride, today I need it 100% for sure, so if I just pull the posi after the drives to and from work, nothing will be pulling power correct?
Cause I have 2 jobs and money is getting tight and I cant afford to wait and let alone pay for a tow truck and miss some work and get ****
Thanks
I should have had the car yesterday but I found a ride, today I need it 100% for sure, so if I just pull the posi after the drives to and from work, nothing will be pulling power correct?
Cause I have 2 jobs and money is getting tight and I cant afford to wait and let alone pay for a tow truck and miss some work and get ****
Thanks
ahahaha this is ****** sweet, driving with no exhaust, no seatbelts, no drivers liscense, sounds like a ******* rocket lumpy cam v8.
Oh well the **** was stolen, if I get pulled over I hope the cop understands
Oh well the **** was stolen, if I get pulled over I hope the cop understands
Disconnect the battery when you stop for now, that should work. If you don't have a short somewhere (which would probably cause more problems than just this) I'm guessing you blew a diode in your alternator. Hook up an ammeter between the positive cable and the terminal with the car off. It should be a couple milliamps. If you're reading up in the 10s of amps, it's almost certainly the alternator. If you don't have these tools, AutoZone should be able to check for you.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
civicboy420
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
27
Aug 20, 2014 07:53 PM




