oka well i did this rear brakes swap and i got master clyinder and power booster from a 1990 acura integra ls non abs. so i install it and bleed the brakes but brakes still goes all the way to the floor and i havent put in the 40/40 valve yet. if this my plm from stinking to the floor because i didnt put a 4040 valve in ?

 

and if this is my plm then where the hell can i get 1 for tmw when some auto parts dont have 1 ?

 

It could either be a leak in the lines or bad master cylinder. Have you bled the brakes yet?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It could either be a leak in the lines or bad master cylinder. Have you bled the brakes yet? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you bench bleed the mc?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkipMic2006 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and if this is my plm then where the hell can i get 1 for tmw when some auto parts dont have 1 ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

junkyard

 

no i didnt bench bleed the m/c i just bolt it up and put the bleeder tube on and press the brake slowly thennafter that i put on the brakes lines on...what u mean by bench bleed tho?

 

doesnt any parts store have them proportioning valve?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkipMic2006 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">doesnt any parts store have them proportioning valve?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I doubt it because it's not an everyday item.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=874191

 

and the old booster and mc from a stock civic 1 works oka with the rear disc until i swap in a acura mc and pb in didnt work good

 

damn then i guess i'll have to put back my stock booster and mc tmw until monday go to junkyard to get a valve btw this is my daily driven

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkipMic2006 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn then i guess i'll have to put back my stock booster and mc tmw until monday go to junkyard to get a valve btw this is my daily driven </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's a lot of work. Can you get a ride to the junkyard?

Quick question-Did you have to adjust the pushrod on the DA booster?

 

i can but most junkyard are close tmw and yeah i did adjust to where u put the pin in for brake arm ...?

 

I was just wondering because the DA mc/bb will be my next mod. My brake fluid is disappearing. I'll adjust it to 88 civic spec and see what happens. Thanks

 

oh oka well i guess i gonna go take it off and put the stock pb/mc back on bec i got school on monday so after that i'll go to a junkyard get a proportioning valve. should be ok after that

 

i paid 305.67 for the brand new power booster and a brand new master clyinder and cant believe i forget abt the proportioning valve too...

 

buy a vaccuum pump brake bleeder and amaze yourself with how much air has yet to be sucked out of those lines. i dont think its possible to get a 100% bleed on a new line just by pumping. bleeder pump makes it a one man 10 min 4 wheel job for life. one of the best money making tools i own.

proportioning valves dont do much proportioning, all they really do is restrict the fluid to the rears so they dont lock up. fronts are generally getting full pressure. they should be called brake restrictor valves.

a brake pedal that hits the floor has a leak, airbubbles, or it has no fluid. and if the lines dont have fluid, the only other thing that can be in them .. is air.

 

umm but my old stock master clyinder ansd booster works great until i put this in

 

Damn. I can barely understand what you are saying. Oh well this ain't no English class.

Probably air still in the lines. I would bench bleed the master cylinder. Vacuum lines I have heard are great and I plan to get one soon. Proportioning valve can help. My buddy doesn't have a proportioning valve for his rear discs and his foot goes a little lower and takes a little longer to stop. On mine i just switched p/v while I was at it so I never knew whether or not it actually affected it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike_belben@yahoo.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">vaccuum pump brake bleeder</TD></TR></TABLE>

How much do these cost?

 

I bet it is air in the lines. I had the same problem because I didn't bother to bench bleed it. Took a very long time to completely bleed the whole system but it now stops like a king!

 

so what did u do to make it work right ? u benched it ?

 

i did benched it but not by hand i just bolt it up on the booster and put the bleeder tube on and start pumping it slow or am i doing it wrong and suppose to do this by hand ?

 

I just kept bleeding the brakes till all the air was out.

 

will this work ...if i left the bleeder screw open a lil and pump all the fluid out then close it, pump it agian? could this work if i do each wheel one at a time ?

 

or a 2 man job is better? like 1 person do the pumping and other person do the bleeder screw ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkipMic2006 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">umm but my old stock master clyinder ansd booster works great until i put this in</TD></TR></TABLE>

air in the lines does not care if parts are new or old. its still means no brakes.

youre asking for the simplest solution. i gave it to you. a vaccuum pump on the bleeder, pump it up, open bleeder, sucks a shitload of bubbles out. close it when you see solid fluid. that side is DONE in no more than a minute.
sears sells them.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr...58000