and so the saga continues...#892 w/broken studd?!!@##$
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From: somewere never to be found
Well the other day I woke up and I need to rotate my tires so I went into my garage got the car in the air "after i loosened the nuts" then proceeded to take the nuts off to remove the wheels...
when I got to the Rear Passenger wheel all the nuts came off smooth as butter except for one... it started getting really tight after 2 turns then locked up and would tighten or loosen....
I called a buddy and he said this happens alot and I had to break it off IF in was necassary to rotate the tires.... well I said **** it so I tried to get it off and it gave out and broke.
I called len he said the part was like $4 buck and not to even bother ordering it
"thanks len"
so i guess ill buy one locally ... does anyone know how much a tire shop will charge to put on of these suckers in?
4 lug ownzz me
TIA

when I got to the Rear Passenger wheel all the nuts came off smooth as butter except for one... it started getting really tight after 2 turns then locked up and would tighten or loosen....
I called a buddy and he said this happens alot and I had to break it off IF in was necassary to rotate the tires.... well I said **** it so I tried to get it off and it gave out and broke.
I called len he said the part was like $4 buck and not to even bother ordering it
"thanks len"so i guess ill buy one locally ... does anyone know how much a tire shop will charge to put on of these suckers in?
4 lug ownzz me
TIA


They're only $0.92 at Autozone
. The crappy thing it's like $30-50 to pay someone to install if you don't do it yourself.
. The crappy thing it's like $30-50 to pay someone to install if you don't do it yourself.
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From: somewere never to be found
well i am willing to do it myself but... i was told i need some kind of SPECIAL clamp or tool to insert the new stud into the hub?
can this be done with out it in an easy way.. or should i just pay the money and "GET ER DONE"
can this be done with out it in an easy way.. or should i just pay the money and "GET ER DONE"
Now you can fool all those lug-nut-countin stunnaazzz... 3 wheels left to go.. 
By the way, remove that weather stripping ASAP unless you like the idea of rust

By the way, remove that weather stripping ASAP unless you like the idea of rust
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From: somewere never to be found
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Alexander »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Now you can fool all those lug-nut-countin stunnaazzz... 3 wheels left to go.. 
By the way, remove that weather stripping ASAP unless you like the idea of rust
</TD></TR></TABLE>
k cool, but do you guys know how hard this is to do yourself... or should i just pay a shop ... anyone done this repair before? that can give me some insight.

By the way, remove that weather stripping ASAP unless you like the idea of rust
</TD></TR></TABLE>k cool, but do you guys know how hard this is to do yourself... or should i just pay a shop ... anyone done this repair before? that can give me some insight.
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From: With my POS D15B2, Whereever whenever, United States
get a dremel and dremel out part of your rotor shield so that you can see the end of the wheel stud
then just hammer it out and hammer a new one back in.
The biggest misconception is that you need a press to get them out, thats bullshit
save the money the shield doesn't really do anything anyways
then just hammer it out and hammer a new one back in.
The biggest misconception is that you need a press to get them out, thats bullshit
save the money the shield doesn't really do anything anyways
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its real easy compared to the front.
take off brake cailper and rotor.
take off the axle nut cap then the axle nut.
pull off the hub off.
hammer out the stud.
hammer in the new stud.
take off brake cailper and rotor.
take off the axle nut cap then the axle nut.
pull off the hub off.
hammer out the stud.
hammer in the new stud.
Follow VVVVV Not this ^^^^^
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MugenHonda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get a dremel and dremel out part of your rotor shield so that you can see the end of the wheel stud
then just hammer it out and hammer a new one back in.
The biggest misconception is that you need a press to get them out, thats bullshit
save the money the shield doesn't really do anything anyways</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MugenHonda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get a dremel and dremel out part of your rotor shield so that you can see the end of the wheel stud
then just hammer it out and hammer a new one back in.
The biggest misconception is that you need a press to get them out, thats bullshit
save the money the shield doesn't really do anything anyways</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KOALA YUMMIES »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Follow VVVVV Not this ^^^^^
</TD></TR></TABLE>
jsut did 2 a few months back, did what koala said
pop 'em out the back
</TD></TR></TABLE>
jsut did 2 a few months back, did what koala said
pop 'em out the back
yep the rears are easier than the fronts.. the special tool is only needed for the front. You should be able to pop them out and slide the new ones in and just tighten it with a nut to pull it out. the short ones are easy to put back in.. the long ones however ergh..you have to take out the whole assembly..
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From: somewere never to be found
k cool .. so esestially just take the hub off , bang the damaged piece out , bang the new one in ... coolll.... any lock tight or anything... they just stay in place?
you just need to tighten it with a nut so it will pull it out....there should be special threading at the base of the stud (don't flame cause i dont know what they are called), to lock it in so no free play will be allowed.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kicker773 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you just need to tighten it with a nut so it will pull it out....there should be special threading at the base of the stud (don't flame cause i dont know what they are called), to lock it in so no free play will be allowed. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You will need to stack a washer or two under the lugnut you're using, since the stud isnt threaded all the way to the hub. Otherwise it tightens most of the way and you just run out of threads.
Impact gun works well on this.
You will need to stack a washer or two under the lugnut you're using, since the stud isnt threaded all the way to the hub. Otherwise it tightens most of the way and you just run out of threads.
Impact gun works well on this.
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From: First in Flight, Type Rs of East Coast, NC, FL
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You will need to stack a washer or two under the lugnut you're using, since the stud isnt threaded all the way to the hub. Otherwise it tightens most of the way and you just run out of threads.
Impact gun works well on this.</TD></TR></TABLE>
for impact gun...mikey if you were down here we could get it done real quick at ma work
Impact gun works well on this.</TD></TR></TABLE>
for impact gun...mikey if you were down here we could get it done real quick at ma work
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ebelp »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Feel lucky it was one of the rears. The front studs are a biatch.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can say that I can. I have never been so frustrated working on my car as I was with a broken front stud.
You can say that I can. I have never been so frustrated working on my car as I was with a broken front stud.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xmilanoredsix »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can say that I can. I have never been so frustrated working on my car as I was with a broken front stud.</TD></TR></TABLE>
1 - remove spindle
2 - drive to machine shop w/ new stud and wheel bearing
3 - drink beer
4 - pick up later
Easy!
1 - remove spindle
2 - drive to machine shop w/ new stud and wheel bearing
3 - drink beer
4 - pick up later
Easy!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mikestypeRR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i am willing to do it myself but... i was told i need some kind of SPECIAL clamp or tool to insert the new stud into the hub?
can this be done with out it in an easy way.. or should i just pay the money and "GET ER DONE"
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would just tighten a lugnut onto the new stud and it will pull it right through the hub. It's a pretty quick fix. Goog luck!
can this be done with out it in an easy way.. or should i just pay the money and "GET ER DONE"
</TD></TR></TABLE>I would just tighten a lugnut onto the new stud and it will pull it right through the hub. It's a pretty quick fix. Goog luck!


