hey guys,
i know a guy with a fifth gen needing a motor. his is knocking. i have a spare 93 closed deck block. can you do it? im pretty sure that i will have to swap the injectors and oil pump, but i havent actually heard of any one doing it. i dont want to convert to obd1 or anything, i just want to make some $. thanks

 

to keep it OBD2 with the OBDII ecu swap

- OBDII Dist
- OBDII Oil pump and CKP sensor
- crank Balancer belt gear and Timing belt gear
- swap injectors, and I think the FPR to be safe

 

thanks satan_srv. do you know anyone who has put a obd1 h22 into a fifth gen?

 

Keith https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1045018

but he went OBDI anyway..the only difference is the harness/injectors/ecu, everything on the motor side for him is OBDII so he can change it back later if he wants to.

 

thanks for the help. i think i will try to sell him the motor and install it for him. oh satan-srv you know alot

 

Why change the oil pump??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cb7-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why change the oil pump?? </TD></TR></TABLE>

becuase it has the mounting points for the CKP sensor.

 

because the ckp is in the distributor

 

Im doing the exact same swap in my 5th gen. I have a 94 H22A which is OBD I and I need it to pass NY emissions. What do I need to do to make this run and pass emmisions. Do I really need to turn it OBD II or can I keep it OBD I? If I keep it OBD I what do I need to do tou my ECU since its OBD II? HELP!!!!!

 

you might want to find out what NY emissions actually checks. If it's just a sniffer test you should be fine to go OBDI..the engines are not that much different

 

They hook us up to a computer now and the computer will only pass us if the emissions are ok. I think NY emissions are pretty close to Cali.

 

Well what do I have to do to my ECU since its OBD II? And what sensors do I need?

 

My second post explains what you need to do. Maybe read it again?

 

Yeah you can do it. I have a 96 civic with jdm h22a. You just have to buy the converter from skunk 2 and custom the engine wiring harness

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95cxh22a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey guys,
i know a guy with a fifth gen needing a motor. his is knocking. i have a spare 93 closed deck block. can you do it? im pretty sure that i will have to swap the injectors and oil pump, but i havent actually heard of any one doing it. i dont want to convert to obd1 or anything, i just want to make some $. thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have done it Once all u need to buy is the oil pump just use everything else off the A4 block i.e timing cover, crank pulley gear all that good stuff Just my 2cents

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by satan_srv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to keep it OBD2 with the OBDII ecu swap

- OBDII Dist
- OBDII Oil pump and CKP sensor
- crank Balancer belt gear and Timing belt gear
- swap injectors, and I think the FPR to be safe</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you swap injectors, you'll need a resistor pack too...

Keith

 

hey thanks guys. i will get in touch with him next week. maybe i can put my engine in there, make some cash, and end up with his long block.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by satan_srv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to keep it OBD2 with the OBDII ecu swap

- OBDII Dist
- OBDII Oil pump and CKP sensor
- crank Balancer belt gear and Timing belt gear
- swap injectors, and I think the FPR to be safe</TD></TR></TABLE>

The crank balancer belt gear and timing belt gear don't need to be changed.
The fuel rail from your car will need to be used because the 5th gen feeds fuel from the driver side unlike the 4th gen from the pass. side.

Also BIG POINT: Don't forget to pull your old Knock sensor off and put it in place of the OBD1 knock sensor. The plug configuration is different and it's difficult to change when the motor is in the car....if you get this message too late, just solder an obd1 knock connector in place of your knock connector.

Good luck

 

What is the purpose of an OBD II -&gt; OBD I conversion harness? Can we all agree that this is what is needed to do the swap and Make a OBD I engine run in an OBD II 5th gen prelude and keep it OBD II:

-OBDII Dist
-OBDII Oil pump and CKP sensor
-injectors from OBD II H22
-OBD II FPR
-OBD II Knock sensor

Is this the complete list that everyone can agree on? I think there is a lot of confusion as to what is needed. I think it would help if there was just a deffinite list saying "this is what is needed to make make a OBD I engine run in an OBD II 5th gen prelude and keep it OBD II".

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlackTraxH23 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The crank balancer belt gear and timing belt gear don't need to be changed.
The fuel rail from your car will need to be used because the 5th gen feeds fuel from the driver side unlike the 4th gen from the pass. side.

Also BIG POINT: Don't forget to pull your old Knock sensor off and put it in place of the OBD1 knock sensor. The plug configuration is different and it's difficult to change when the motor is in the car....if you get this message too late, just solder an obd1 knock connector in place of your knock connector.

Good luck </TD></TR></TABLE>

What? You need the timing and balancer belt crank sprockets since they have makers for the TDC and CKP sensor. If you don't have the markers on the t-belt sprocket, the car WILL NOT START (no spark). If you use the wrong balancer belt sprocket, you'll throw a CEL 4 code. I know this from first hand experience.

Look at the TDC sensor on the left which reads off the back plate of the t-belt sprocket which is one piece). The CKP sensor on the right reads the b-belt sprocket...


This is a JDM one... note, no markers for the TDC sensor to read...


JDM b-belt crank sprocket on the right and USDM/OBD2 b-belt crank sprocket... see the amount of spokes that the CKP sensor reads? You'll throw a code and can't rev past 3500 rpm...


You are correct with knock sensor but it isn't all that hard to change once the motor is in (I've done that too). Or, if you are kind of lazy, you can cut the single signal wire and solder the JDM connector on... I have pics of that too if you want.

Keith

 

Where can I Buy these sensors. I have the JDM motor but I sold and shipped out the USDM so Now I need to find these.

 

Here are knock sensors... the one on the right is the USDM one, the other one is the JDM one...



They might look different in size but they are basically the same thing...

Left = USDM, Right = JDM

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boarderx192 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is the purpose of an OBD II -&gt; OBD I conversion harness? Can we all agree that this is what is needed to do the swap and Make a OBD I engine run in an OBD II 5th gen prelude and keep it OBD II:

-OBDII Dist
-OBDII Oil pump and CKP sensor
-injectors from OBD II H22
-OBD II FPR
-OBD II Knock sensor

Is this the complete list that everyone can agree on? I think there is a lot of confusion as to what is needed. I think it would help if there was just a deffinite list saying "this is what is needed to make make a OBD I engine run in an OBD II 5th gen prelude and keep it OBD II".</TD></TR></TABLE>

the obd conversion harnesses you always see for sale are for the ecu connector.....not the engine harness....the obd2&gt;1 adapter is used when you put an obd1 ecu in a 96+ (obd2) car.....

heres my experience....obd1 h22a - obd1 p13 - obd2 96 prelude.....i used the 96 h23 engine harness....an obd 2&gt;1 ecu adapter.....and then did 3 write up pages worth of wiring work with using the jdm distributor and wiring in vtec to the obd2 clips and a vafc to the obd adapter wires....that way the vtec is now permanent in the cars harness, and the vafc was easily installable/removable(the obdII adapter came with me to the kitchen table and i did the wiring there instead of cramped and sweaty under the dash) , which was convenient as i recently removed it.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by md23vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I have done it Once all u need to buy is the oil pump just use everything else off the A4 block i.e timing cover, crank pulley gear all that good stuff Just my 2cents</TD></TR></TABLE>

He said the block is badd not the head, Everyone is adding unessassary info. Only thing thats needs to be purshaced is oil pump for A4 (bottom end kit would be recommended also) everything else will switch over off the A4 point blank

 

Where can I get these sensors that I need. I have the OBD 1 engine and the OBD 2 alternator only. I also have and OBD 2 IM. Where can I get the rest of the needed stuff?