1989 CRX Si with B18C1 swap

Motor: NEW OEM shortblock and head
SPOON goodies> Hi comp. HG, baffled oil pan, sparkplug wires, fan switch
DC 4-2-1 header, Invidia exhaust, Akimoto intake
Fluidyne 92-95 half radiator, FAL slim fan
ARP headstuds, Unorthodox race pulley, B&M oil cooler
*New 10/16/06* Crane stg 1 cams with valvetrain *
HASPORT mounts
P72 ECU with Hondata stage 2
Boomslang OB0-OBD1 jumper harness (thanks Rustin!)

Trans: JDM LSD YS1 ACT 6 puck, HD PP, and Prolite flywheel.

Suspension: Tokico Illumina's with GC coilover sleeves, ST 22mm rear swaybar
Z speed strut bars, Neuspeed rear lower tie bar
Function 7 rear lwr Billet control arms, Prothane bushings

Brakes: Fastbrake 11" fronts 1990 rear CRX discs,Hawk HPS+ pads Goodridge SS lines

Wheels/tires: *New* 15" VOLK TE37 with 205/50/15 Advan A032R's

Interior: Autopower 4 point rollbar, Sparco Pista and Speed seats, Sparco 5 point camlock harness, Sparco steering wheel
EM racing C-pillar bar, Rear mounted battery with circuit breaker.
Autometer gauges, USDM ITR Cluster

Exterior: WW kit, rear WW lip spoiler, JDM all amber rear tail lamps
Carbon fiber hood with custom carbon fiber hood scoop

*Update* 10/16/06
Dyno #'s 168 whp and 129 tq tuned by Casey at Modacar. sacrified some peak HP to smooth out powerband/curve. I run track events and need a smooth powerband and midrange. Not ricer peak hp Car kicks *** at Laguna and Infineon

some pics: will post more soon!!







blingin y0!! Function 7 arms








ITR cluster


My test driver / daughter Kalli





Modified by APEX CRX at 2:29 PM 10/24/2006

 

What, no pics of the bar sticker or the engine bay? Boooooooo!

Edit: Oh noooooow you post engine pics.

 

dang about time, hehehe j/k. I've been driving around with my swap now for almost 3 months and I have not gotten it BAR'ed yet.

 

Which Bar station did you go to? Also did you run into any trouble having your engine bar'd ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wraith &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Which Bar station did you go to? Also did you run into any trouble having your engine bar'd ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I went to the one at Skyline college. I had to go 3 times to finally get passed.

few things. If yo go to a REF in the BAY AREA they know their ****, don't BS

I had to disconnect my G-TECH air fuel ratio meter because it was tapped into my 02 sensor wiring. I had to fix my IAB wiring, adjust timing and replace my O2 sensor to finally get sniffer test to pass. REF was cool though, no drama. He just called me out on a few things that I fixed and rest was cake.

 

Nice *** car
Whats BAR? That just like emissions test on steroids or what?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by APEX CRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I went to the one at Skyline college. I had to go 3 times to finally get passed.

few things. If yo go to a REF in the BAY AREA they know their ****, don't BS

I had to disconnect my G-TECH air fuel ratio meter because it was tapped into my 02 sensor wiring. I had to fix my IAB wiring, adjust timing and replace my O2 sensor to finally get sniffer test to pass. REF was cool though, no drama. He just called me out on a few things that I fixed and rest was cake.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've heard about Skyline college. What all do you have done to the motor internally? And also is the intake in that pic the one you used to pass? were they cool with you using generic vacuum tubing to connect the valve cover nipple to the intake? And lastly did they say anything about the DC header?

I'll need to get my car BARd eventually. But I have the Skunk2 IM and stg 1 cams and I dont feel like swapping those out for OEM parts. I think I should be ok anyways since the IM and stg 1 cams are supposed to be CARB certified.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WeaponRex86 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice *** car
Whats BAR? That just like emissions test on steroids or what?</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks, In California if you swap a motor you need to go to a special emissions station to get the motor swap checked. They check to make sure the motor and wiring is exactly like that of the donor car. In my case a 94 Integra GSR. BAR stands for Bureau of Automotive Repair.

If it all checks out they apply a special sticker to the car to certify everything is legit so when I get pulled over by the popo's I can tell them to go to hell if they think my **** is illegal!!!

 

yes, The intake in the pics is a old Akimoto sports intake for a 94 GSR. he didn't say squat about the generic silicone hose for the valve cover to intake. I did my swap very clean and used all new hoses from Acura for vacuum and coolant. I actually was driving my car for 2 months before I got Bar'd too!!

Only thing about the DC header was he checked the CARB EO # to make sure it matched the motor

Internally my motor is stock for the time being since it was a new shortblock I couldn't justify pistons. I will be upgrading the top end (cams and valvetrain) later

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by APEX CRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes, The intake in the pics is a old Akimoto sports intake for a 94 GSR. he didn't say squat about the generic silicone hose for the valve cover to intake. I did my swap very clean and used all new hoses from Acura for vacuum and coolant. I actually was driving my car for 2 months before I got Bar'd too!!

Internally my motor is stock for the time being since it was a new shortblock I couldn't justify pistons. I will be upgrading the top end (cams and valvetrain) later</TD></TR></TABLE>

cool thanks for the info...I guess I'll have to get rid of my ghettorigged intake and get a vacuum line to connect the valve cover to the intake nipple.

 

ha ha yeah Ghetto rigging doesn't fly at the REF !!! PM me if you need any help

 

i thought your car was already BAR certified...

 

it was certified October 13th right before CRXPO. I finally got around and put this thread together

 

damn i want that in my car i only got the zc but i want to put in a b18 legally. how does it run?

 

nice

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by the-pepsi-man &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn i want that in my car i only got the zc but i want to put in a b18 legally. how does it run?</TD></TR></TABLE>

it pulls like a ****!! no comparison to my old Supercharged D16a6 setup. Mid-range and top end is insane.

 

Nice job using the stock GSR IM. First one I've seen without a skunk2 manifold.

clean car overall I'm almost there...

 

I want, I want *drools*

 

Did the Referee notice the external box for the Hondata stage2??

Wes

 

What are those 2 bigger black hoses for that run on the driver side of the engine bay? Looks like they are for an oil cooler...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wes V &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did the Referee notice the external box for the Hondata stage2??

Wes</TD></TR></TABLE> nope, because I'm installing it with some cams next month then get some dyno time. I knew it wouldn't fly if I had installed the Hondata before hand.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatchB17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What are those 2 bigger black hoses for that run on the driver side of the engine bay? Looks like they are for an oil cooler...</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup, its for my oil cooler. I run alot of track events and its dropped my oil temps 10-15 degrees.

 

Apex;

If you are running a remote oil cooler, did you remove the original GSR oil "intercooler"? Do you have an oil temperature gauge? If so, do you think that the oil temperature would go up while in "stop and go" traffic more with the remote cooler (less air flow) then when using the stock "cooler".

If you removed the stock oil intercooler, did you change over to an LS water main pipe or just cap off the water lines that would go to it? Would any B series main water pipe fit?

When you bought your Hondata, did it come with a pre-programmed prom. Did it come with any prom at all. In other words, if you install the system in your garage, do you then have a non running car due to not having a prom that would work with the system? Or, can you use the stock rom to get to a dyno?

Did the Hondata come with a "zero-insertion" socket or just a standard socket for the prom?

Wes

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wes V &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Apex;

If you are running a remote oil cooler, did you remove the original GSR oil "intercooler"? Do you have an oil temperature gauge? If so, do you think that the oil temperature would go up while in "stop and go" traffic more with the remote cooler (less air flow) then when using the stock "cooler"

When you bought your Hondata, did it come with a pre-programmed prom. Did it come with any prom at all. In other words, if you install the system in your garage, do you then have a non running car due to not having a prom that would work with the system? Or, can you use the stock rom to get to a dyno?

Did the Hondata come with a "zero-insertion" socket or just a standard socket for the prom?

Wes</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wes,

I kept the stock GSR cooler on the back of the block. My oil cooler setup uses a spin on adapter and a remote mount for the oil filter. I do have a oil temp gauge which reads the oil at the bottom of the pan as I used a sender that replaces the oil drain plug. I did notice that the oil temp raises about 10-15 degrees in slow city traffic due to less air flow across the oil cooler face. But drops 10-15 degrees when moving 25mph or more.

For the Hondata I bought a "brand new" unused stage 2 from a friend and my P72 I bought was already socketed for a Hondata. I just pulled the jumper so the ECU would run on the stock base ECU program. I don't remember if it was a "zero insertion " socket or a standard socket. I'd have to pull my ECU out and open it to check.

Vee

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wes V &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you bought your Hondata, did it come with a pre-programmed prom. Did it come with any prom at all. In other words, if you install the system in your garage, do you then have a non running car due to not having a prom that would work with the system? Or, can you use the stock rom to get to a dyno?

Did the Hondata come with a "zero-insertion" socket or just a standard socket for the prom?

Wes</TD></TR></TABLE>

I can answer this part. If you buy Hondata from a dealer, they should offer to burn you a basemap. When I bought my S200, I told the dealer what engine I had, what size injectors I was running, what ECU I was going to use, and how much boost to set the tables up for. When I recieved my Hondata package, it was already opened so they could get to the ROM to burn the basemap onto it. You will be safe to drive to a dyno on a basemap, but try not to get into boost because you could damage your setup.

My Hondata did not come with any ZIF sockets. It did come with two solder-in sockets. I purchased a low-profile ZIF from Moates. After recieving my ECU back from Hondata [I shipped it to them to have them socket it], they had soldered a socket in. I stacked one more socket on top of the one soldered to the board then I stuck the ZIF in. With the low-pro ZIF you don't have to chop your ECU cover up. Everything closes nicely with the ROM in place.

 

OK, now I'm just confused. I thought that when installing a Hondata sysem the original rom was physically removed and replaced with a socket for the new prom that can be programmed (on a rom burner).