whats up guys/gals i got a 91 civic std andthe car clicks but no start the batery seems fine cause when i turn the key the dash boward lights up and all but it just clicks like tick tick, then i whent o do it again and it click like a lot of times in a row like 10-15 times easily really quick could it be the starteer how can i tell if it is the starter too.,,,,, hmmmmmmmm help plz any info will do

 

try charging your battery for a little bit or jump it if it dosent start it most likely is your starter

 

well i jump statred the car the other day and it went on and i lef the car on for a while then turned it off then turned it back on and it started it seems like it does it on cold starts inthe moring ieven if i had the car runnnning for a while the day before even driving it aroudn for awhile,, the next moring the car wont start ill have jump start it

 

yah charge the battery and hit the starter with something blunt and heavy

 

alright so i went outside and jumpstarted the car and it started right up with like 1or 2 clicks

 

clean the terminals of the battery. if you have a voltmeter, you should check to see if it's 12.6v or greater. also, when you crank the engine, see if the voltage stays above 9.6v

 

the clicking is the starter solenoid engaging and disengaging due to low (not sure if current, or volatage, probably current.) at any rate, its usually associated with a dying battery. it takes very little current to run interior accesories in comparison to cranking.

you alternator may not be charging the battery. hold something metallic to the back of it while its running. if there is magnetism, its generally ok.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike_belben@yahoo.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hold something metallic to the back of it while its running. if there is magnetism, its generally ok. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Cool, I've never heard of that. Tis true?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drdisco69 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cool, I've never heard of that. Tis true? </TD></TR></TABLE>

yup, it's called an electro-magnet

 

Yeah, I never thought of it like that, but it makes sense. Duh to me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drdisco69 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Cool, I've never heard of that. Tis true? </TD></TR></TABLE>

True but not an effective way to test.

Put a dvom on your battery and start the car up, volts should go up to 14. If not the alternator is not doing its job.

 

There is the old school way.Have the car running then just disconnect the pos battery cable.If the car dies the alternator is junk.If it stays running time for a new battery(and also check that nothing is draining the system-like something just added to your car like an alarm,stereo,etc.)

 

dont do that it could cause bad voltage spikes and possibly hurt your computer.... your battery acts as an electrical shock absorber when the car is on, keeping it from sending huge voltage to the computer. Best way to do is it with the dvom(digital volt ohm meter) while the car is running.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lil Red CRXsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is the old school way.Have the car running then just disconnect the pos battery cable.If the car dies the alternator is junk.If it stays running time for a new battery(and also check that nothing is draining the system-like something just added to your car like an alarm,stereo,etc.) </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's also the stupid way, its a good way to fry things and cause some big damage.

 

it could be your main relay..

http://www.fourthgenhatch.com/mainrelay.html

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by leohj &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it could be your main relay..

http://www.fourthgenhatch.com/mainrelay.html </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm gonna have to say no on that, the car just clicks and does not attempt to turn over, when there is a problem with the main relay most of the times the fuel connection goes bad, so the car will crank but never turn over.

 

so i went side today trying to start to the car adn notign completly deadnot even dash lights i mean its a new alternator and batery so in another words i had to jump start it again could it be some wire not plugged in its really starting to make me mad cause i need this car for the winter so i get the accord of the road its already snowing here in mass about 5 inches today when i woke up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crableg03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so i went side today trying to start to the car adn notign completly deadnot even dash lights i mean its a new alternator and batery so in another words i had to jump start it again could it be some wire not plugged in its really starting to make me mad cause i need this car for the winter so i get the accord of the road its already snowing here in mass about 5 inches today when i woke up </TD></TR></TABLE>

Slow down and reread what you put, anyways did you test the battery or alternator, I'm guessing you did not, if you would of you would of found out this was not the problem. Just don't shotgun something and hope that's gonna fix it. So do the interior lights turn on at all ? If so it sounds like your ignition switch needs replacing.

For next time, this is how you test your alternator

TESTING
Voltage Test
Make sure the engine is OFF, and turn the headlights on for 15–20 seconds to remove any surface charge from the battery.
Using a DVOM set to volts DC, probe across the battery terminals.
Measure the battery voltage.
Write down the voltage reading and proceed to the next test.
No-Load Test
Connect a tachometer to the engine.
CAUTION
Ensure that the transmission is in Park and the emergency brake is set. Blocking a wheel is optional and an added safety measure.


Turn off all electrical loads (radio, blower motor, wipers, etc.)
Start the engine and increase engine speed to approximately 1500 rpm.
Measure the voltage reading at the battery with the engine holding a steady 1500 rpm. Voltage should have raised at least 0.5 volts, but no more than 2.5 volts.
If the voltage does not go up more than 0.5 volts, the alternator is not charging. If the voltage goes up more than 2.5 volts, the alternator is overcharging.
NOTE: Usually under and overcharging is caused by a defective alternator, or its related parts (regulator), and replacement will fix the problem; however, faulty wiring and other problems can cause the charging system to malfunction. Further testing, which is not covered by this book, will reveal the exact component failure. Many automotive parts stores have alternator bench testers available for use by customers. An alternator bench test is the most definitive way to determine the condition of your alternator.


If the voltage is within specifications, proceed to the next test.
Load Test
With the engine running, turn on the blower motor and the high beams ( or other electrical accessories to place a load on the charging system).
Increase and hold engine speed to 2000 rpm.
Measure the voltage reading at the battery.
The voltage should increase at least 0.5 volts from the voltage test. If the voltage does not meet specifications, the charging system is malfunctioning.
NOTE: Usually under and overcharging is caused by a defective alternator, or its related parts (regulator), and replacement will fix the problem; however, faulty wiring and other problems can cause the charging system to malfunction. Further testing, which is not covered by this book, will reveal the exact component failure. Many automotive parts stores have alternator bench testers available for use by customers. An alternator bench test is the most definitive way to determine the condition of your alternator.

 

ok so i finally did all that testing and well it all work fine butthe garage siad the alternator is charging but the battery wont take the charge could it be the ground for the battery the - it look s kinda greeen and caroded could it be the grround........

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crableg03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok so i finally did all that testing and well it all work fine butthe garage siad the alternator is charging but the battery wont take the charge could it be the ground for the battery the - it look s kinda greeen and caroded could it be the grround........ </TD></TR></TABLE>

What do they mean ? Does the charge get back to the battery and the battery is not holding the charge, if so its the battery then. But if the charge is not even making its way back to the battery I would say its a wire.

 

take it to autozone or somewhere else. they have the rolling tester. they hook it up to your car and it will telll you what is up. they are pretty accurate.

 

i took it to autozone he did all that giberish and told me that i have a bad wire somewhere possibly the negative ground from the batery cause it is kinda green near the engine part wherer u screw it in...

 

I just had sorta the same problem with my crx...it turned out that i had forgotten to ground my negative terminal of the battery to the frame of my car. My car would jump start and start when it was warm for some reason but would not start cold...it would give me the same click and all the electrics would work, headlights, radio, heat...try to ground your neg terminal to your tranny and your frame of the car. I used 12 gauge wire with some washers that bite into the metal (forgot the technical name...metal bitters...lol,ok not funny.) Anyway, that fixed the problem for me. Good luck.