I just bought a 88 crx dx and really want to do a rear disc conversion. But what I want to know is how much am I looking to spend and what do I need and how easy is it do? Also opinions like did you think it was worth the time and money?

 

bump - also because I would like to know

 

i got my complete rear brake swap w/prop valve, SS lines and ebrake cables for 250$ pickup. As for the labor it took me most of a day to do, and im not a master mechanic or anything. It is a pretty straight forward swap, and it defintly increased the rear braking ability.

Now i want a bigger master cylinder, front brakes, and brake booster

 

With three friends, a couple of stripped bolts, and Fourthgenhatch's instructions, about 5 hours or so. It can be done quicker, but we had to prep the trailing arms going on and it was our first time removing the whole rear suspension.

 

I just saw this in the last day or so. A really nice tutorial with photos and all.
Ah, Here it is http://www.geocities.com/Capit...m.htm
I got it from a site called 4th Gen Civic but that site uses frames, and frames in a web site SUCK!

 

Rear Disc conv is very easy, just need good tools, need to have the car high enough to work under and some friends and it is a cake walk. I read some info on how to do it and a friend of mine did it in about 2 hours, first time either of us had done this conversion

 

You won't notice any increased braking ability if that is what you are looking for. It does help with the ease of changing brakes but thats it basically.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by goforbroke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You won't notice any increased braking ability if that is what you are looking for. It does help with the ease of changing brakes but thats it basically.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed, braking is slighty improved

 

hehe I mainly would like it so I dont have to take an hour trying to fool with the spring to get it to snap into place and go on with out popping out

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by goforbroke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You won't notice any increased braking ability if that is what you are looking for. It does help with the ease of changing brakes but thats it basically.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed, slightly better but worth it for the maintenance ease

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by APEX CRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Agreed, slightly better but worth it for the maintenance ease</TD></TR></TABLE>

Double agree, no need to gain 10lbs of muscle mass trying to get that bastard spring to behave.

 

lol those springs almost act like you need 4 hands to hold it on

 

What specific rear disc did you use? Integra or crx si? What fits that I can use?

 

90-93 integra, and you have to have the e-brake cable and lines too

 

aside from being easier dont forget it looks alot better if u have rims

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxomar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What specific rear disc did you use? Integra or crx si? What fits that I can use?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can use either one. The Si e-brake cables are shorter than the DA. Using DA cables you might have to route them creatively to remove the slack. Use the crx control arms (upper, lower, compensator). Now's a good time to change the trailing arm bushings.

 

you dont have to change the entire trailing arms or pay to have the whole arm shipped.. all you need is the center hub section and everything outward, along with ebrake cables. as mentioned, the integras are a little long.

the center hub comes off with a large center nut and 4 torx head fasteners (than can be a bitch) t-45 or t-50's, i dont remember.

 

just remembered, 88 civic/crx have an unusual lower control arm that may complicate things. energy suspension techs know their **** pretty well, might want to ask them about it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike_belben@yahoo.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you dont have to change the entire trailing arms or pay to have the whole arm shipped.. all you need is the center hub section and everything outward, along with ebrake cables. as mentioned, the integras are a little long.

the center hub comes off with a large center nut and 4 torx head fasteners (than can be a bitch) t-45 or t-50's, i dont remember.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your way is more difficult and time consuming than just swapping trailing arms.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike_belben@yahoo.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just remembered, 88 civic/crx have an unusual lower control arm that may complicate things. energy suspension techs know their **** pretty well, might want to ask them about it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree 88 has a unusual lca's. WTF do the ES techs have to do with a rear disc conversion? People in the ef forum know their **** pretty well. At least i do when it comes to this.
crxomar and jester pm me if you have questions.

The 88 lca bolts up to the DA/crx si trailing arm w/o issue.


Modified by eda6 at 10:52 PM 11/10/2004

 

I have an 88 crx si, I went to the pick your part junk yard and got lucky found and bought rear disc brakes off a 90-93 integra and took them home and put them on all in about 8 hours from the junk yard to out the driveway, and it stops way better than the drum. All by my self. Its not hard, you can do-it too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike_belben@yahoo.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you dont have to change the entire trailing arms or pay to have the whole arm shipped.. all you need is the center hub section and everything outward, along with ebrake cables. as mentioned, the integras are a little long.

the center hub comes off with a large center nut and 4 torx head fasteners (than can be a bitch) t-45 or t-50's, i dont remember.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes it is hard, but it can be done quickly with air tools so no problem. I am forced to due that since one of the trailing arms I recieved with my rear disc is bent slightly out of spec, and my stock trailing arm is mint :D

 

my conversion cost me:

40- rear trailing arms and calipers
50- brembo blanks
15- DA parking brake cables (i have a hatch crx should use crx si cables)
40- DA prop valve
30- Axis metal master pads
95- stainless steel brake lines (for a crx)
30- ES rear trailing arm bushings
___
300 total

it took me about 4 hours to do it with all handtools.

i think it was well worth it for look and stopping ability... now i just want a better MC

 

does any one know if DC trailing arms will work on an EF????