I have a quick question for you guys
The oil is not hot enough for the engine perform under those "stressfull" conditions of vtec so the computer doesn't allow it to untill its all warmed up. I'd say your ok just try not to do that too often.
Dont worry, i've done the same thing on my way to school. I wasn't paying attention and missed my normal 4grand shifts in the morning before warmed up and VTEC never kicked in and i looked and i was at like 6700rpm and nothing happened. Runs perfect now, so no damage done. Scared me though..........
well, if the more vtec doesnt kick in b/c of engine not warmed up, then... we rev to redline on the primaries? hmm...that cant be good... I haven't done it before, but I don't want to find out personally with my own car. anyone have some clue? 
[Modified by Fuzznuts, 4:59 AM 12/25/2001]

[Modified by Fuzznuts, 4:59 AM 12/25/2001]
I have that all the time, I've just come to the conclusion that VTEC doesn't kick in when it's cold. Usually only takes a couple of minutes until it works, although I have taken it to 7000+ on just the primaries, barely gets there though. Still works, so I'm not worried. If it were a problem, then Honda wouldn't let the car do it.
Edit: I think that's what I took it too. I could be wrong though.
[Modified by SoCal ITR, 5:44 PM 12/26/2001]
Edit: I think that's what I took it too. I could be wrong though.
[Modified by SoCal ITR, 5:44 PM 12/26/2001]
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I do it all the time, i love those cold morrnigs where right out of the garage i redline it, it makes feel like i have my LS again, j/k
It's safe to do it. The ecu knows that the engine is cold and doesn't allow Vtec to work. It also lowers the redline so you can't damage the motor. Next time you do it watch the rpms when you hit the rev-limiter, it'll be around 6k instead of around 8k.
Vtec won't work if the engine is cold, the oil pressure (level) is low, the car is not going over 35mph and it's in limp mode (check engine light is on, certain codes only).
Vtec won't work if the engine is cold, the oil pressure (level) is low, the car is not going over 35mph and it's in limp mode (check engine light is on, certain codes only).
i remember dynoing my car at 190whp and then realizing i was doing this on my primary non vtec lobes at 9000rpms. things a loose wire will do
Still, you should wait till the engine warms up before winding it out, the new M engines have a tach with lights that progressively raise the redline as the engine reaches it's operating temp. No sense in causing undue strain, use a little preventitive patience
A reminder for those of you running Mugen or some other "RACE ONLY" ECU, ... there are "usually" no "safeguards" like this!
That's also why there's no "check engine" light when running a test pipe.
That's also why there's no "check engine" light when running a test pipe.
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