clutch master cylinder install question please help
about a week ago i installed a new clutch master cylinder in my car, a 93 ex coupe, because mine was leaking. i put the new one in, and i bled the clutch, it didnt have any pressure at all at first, then after bleeding it about 5 times it built pressure. i bled it about 15 or so times. i have a clutchmaster stage 3 clutch incase that matters. well, i still have pedal pressure, but the clutch always seems to grab in different spots. is there a reason for that. could there be an air bubble in there. is there anything that i can do to solve this or is this normal? is there any tricks to bleeding it that maybe i should know? when i bled it i pumped the pedal about 4 or 5 times then i held it down and had someone open up the bleeder on the slave cylinder then close it then i would pick my foot up but when i did that, the pedal would stay on the ground, and i had to pull up on the pedal and it would work regular. sorry for the wrong post but i am just trying to give you as much info as possible. thanks in advance. vernon
You're bleeding it right, you might have to do it again. Did you bench bleed the clutch master cylinder? I guess you have to, you need to for brakes. I'm a cable trans guy, dunno.
Keep bleeding it. Even with brakes, you can get away without bench-bleeding the MC; you just have to bleed & bleed forever before all the air works out.
Loop a string under the pedal so you can pull it back up. Control it with your foot while pulling it up. Don't let the pedal snap up (that seems to let air in sometimes). Do the bleeding process sorta quickly, so the air bubbles don't have time to float upwards thru the lines.
Loop a string under the pedal so you can pull it back up. Control it with your foot while pulling it up. Don't let the pedal snap up (that seems to let air in sometimes). Do the bleeding process sorta quickly, so the air bubbles don't have time to float upwards thru the lines.
i didnt bench bleed it even though my dad told me i should have done it before i put it in. oops.. but is it possibl there is still aire in the lines? even after bleeding it like 15 times? can i bleed it with the cap off of the resivoir so i can keep filing it as i go because that resivoir is aweful small. i think that is what is causing me to do it as slow as i am because we have to stop to fill it up.
I've been able to bleed brakes without bench-bleeding the MC. But it's a real pain because it seems like you have to keep bleeding forever. So yeah, it's certainly possible you still have air in there.
Or...
Get a tube long enough to reach from the slave bleedscrew back to the reservoir. Then pump away. Remember don't let the pedal snap upwards. After getting the air out this way, bleed FRESH fluid thru the system.
Or...
Get a tube long enough to reach from the slave bleedscrew back to the reservoir. Then pump away. Remember don't let the pedal snap upwards. After getting the air out this way, bleed FRESH fluid thru the system.
so when i do this wont there be air in the tube? do i have to bleed it regularly until the tube is completely filled with air? and can i just bleed it regularly, and keep the cap off of the resivoir and then just fill it as i go? how many times do you think i should do it? and if i do it that many times and no air comes out than what?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16Civic93 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so when i do this wont there be air in the tube? do i have to bleed it regularly until the tube is completely filled with air? and can i just bleed it regularly, and keep the cap off of the reservoir and then just fill it as i go? how many times do you think i should do it? and if i do it that many times and no air comes out than what?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The goal is to bleed until the tube has no air in it -- you should use a clear plastic tube so you can tell whether bubbles are coming out of the bleeder.
If you don't want to run such a long tube, a $7 bleeder kit (with tube, tank, magnetic attachment to body) will make the job much easier. It becomes a one-person operation. Be sure that there is always enough fluid in the catch tank to keep the hose submerged, or you will be sucking air back into the system (and defeating yourself).
You can bleed with the reservoir open. Do not let it run down to empty. The cap prevents moisture and debris from contaminating the fluid.
How many times? As long as it takes. I recently rebuilt the clutch master on my Trooper, and it took me nearly 4 hours to devise a way to get all the air out! Isuzu decided it would be a good idea to run the line above the level of the reservoir to clear the valve cover...
The goal is to bleed until the tube has no air in it -- you should use a clear plastic tube so you can tell whether bubbles are coming out of the bleeder.
If you don't want to run such a long tube, a $7 bleeder kit (with tube, tank, magnetic attachment to body) will make the job much easier. It becomes a one-person operation. Be sure that there is always enough fluid in the catch tank to keep the hose submerged, or you will be sucking air back into the system (and defeating yourself).
You can bleed with the reservoir open. Do not let it run down to empty. The cap prevents moisture and debris from contaminating the fluid.
How many times? As long as it takes. I recently rebuilt the clutch master on my Trooper, and it took me nearly 4 hours to devise a way to get all the air out! Isuzu decided it would be a good idea to run the line above the level of the reservoir to clear the valve cover...
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