I was driving and my car started bogging real bad and the check engine light came on, I downshifted but it did not help at all. So I pulled over and turned the car off and it would not turn back on.

I just recently installed a kill switch that interupts the power to the fuel pump. So I pulled the back seat and bypassed the switch and the car still wouldnt start. I checked the power to the fuel pump and its getting power, so I assume it's not the Main Fuel Relay.

Now when I turn the car to ACC. I can hear the fuel pump but its not nearly as loud as it used to be, especially because the seat is off and it is exposed. If i turn the key to ACC. and then off, then back to ACC, and then try to start the car it seems as if it builds up enough fuel to start but the dies immediately.

So the fuel pump is pumping just not enough to start, or keep the car running. Does this sound like the fuel pump? I want to make sure before I spend $250 on a new pump. By the way the car is a 93 ls. thanks

 

weird , this happens to me when i forget to , but my blaster cable on

 

whats a blaster cable? I dont get what you are trying to say.

 

Will a fuel pump just stop working all together or will it just not work well enough? Also should I take the fuel filter into consideration?



Modified by DrewDown at 4:50 PM 11/9/2004

 

Nobody has any ideas? I dont know where to go from here.

 

check ur coil...integras get *** fucked by the coils. Take ur cap off and if that niple is gone or shorter then usual then the coil was shotting spark hella far which makes it one hot *** spark then wears it out fast...just replaced it ....just pull the cap off and look and its thats fine look inside the coil hole and see if the platics inside is kinda ate away...could be fuel pressure too..

 

cool thanks will check right now.

 

i did a fuel pump in a 90 camaro today that was almost like what your sayin i could hear the pump come on but each time it got quieter

 

The car is definately getting spark so Im assuming it is a fuel problem. what are the chances of the filter being clogged and only letting a little bit of fuel through. Which is why it will turn over but only for a second.

 

I just replaced the main fuel relay with a used one I picked up from a friend and I can definately hear the fuel pump turn on. So I hoping that a fuel filter will do the trick. I guess I will just go get one and see.

 

The exact same thing happened to me. I had just replaced the fuel pump that day so i was pretty sure it wasn't bad. I took it out and tested it. As soon as I put power to it I got drenched. What had happened was that the short piece of hose on the outlet side of the pump was leaking, the original clamps weren't strong enough, after i replaced these w/ some heavy duty ones it ran fine. I would replace the original ones w/ some worm style clamps and see what happens.

 

how long does it take to change a fuel pump?

 

whoa negative...doesnt matter, you can still get spark if your coil is bad! its just too weak to ignite the fuel...look it takes 3 mins to check that so if i were you id do that first before you jump to a conclusion and start spending money on a bunch of parts...best bet is to check around at dinky stuff...check that coil and hoses...to check the filter i believe you can take off the line that doesnt go to the fuel rail and if some comes out then yea could be your filter but if none comes out then its ur pump...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbo01LS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> the original clamps weren't strong enough, after i replaced these w/ some heavy duty ones it ran fine. I would replace the original ones w/ some worm style clamps and see what happens.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Dang and I just changed the fuel filter and it wasnt the problem, So I guess I will go check the coil with an ohmeter right now. Man this is frustrating.

 

Well I went to check the coil right now and when I took the distibuter cap off I could see that the cap and rotor are both visibly chewed up. I remember that last time I did a tune up I could not get the rotor off so I never changed it.

I took out the set screw but I still can't get the rotor off. Could this be my problem even though I am getting some spark?

 

blaster cable is the cable that goes to my msd coil - sorry for that

 

Now I dont know what to do.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DrewDown &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I went to check the coil right now and when I took the distibuter cap off I could see that the cap and rotor are both visibly chewed up. I remember that last time I did a tune up I could not get the rotor off so I never changed it.

I took out the set screw but I still can't get the rotor off. Could this be my problem even though I am getting some spark?</TD></TR></TABLE>Chewed-up cap & rotor is definitely a bad thing.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DrewDown &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Now I dont know what to do.</TD></TR></TABLE>Replace 'em. If the rotor mounting screw is off & you still can't get the rotor off, you might have to break it off with some pliers. Or use a couple screwdrivers as crowbars?

 

Like i said its got to be the ignition...so your rotor *** hammered cap too? was the cap chewed up but one of the nippls? like there is one over the rotor and one enters the coil? Before u whip that ohm meter out u have to look at the situation...ok first OMG the cap is jacked up 2nd WOW the rotor got butt fucked...now could that all be from excessive resistance? YES!!

Like the weight loss comercial says..YES! its chewed up from spark jumping all over like a illegal immagrant crossing the border and since its jumping so far its hotter then hell...so now for the 3rd part just look inside the hole in ur coil...is it black and powdery? is the pastic inside that hole chewed up? is the brass thing covered in melted plastic?? even its its not u wore the coil out because the cap and rotor were over working it because they were jacked up and spark had to work that much harder to work and raped ur coill......

 

Cool thanks for the very informative post. My dad picked up a fuel pressure guage, so I will check that and see what its at. What do you think an adequate pressure is?

About the ignition I didnt see any melted plastic it just looked as if the rotor was cutting into the distributor cap. Could there be excessive play causing the rotor to move around too much and cut into the cap?

Thanks for all the info I will definately be replacing the cap and rotor, most likely the coil as well.

 

Yea replace the cap and rotor for sure...inside the rotor is a metal piece..sometimes the plastic sperates and it wiggles like a ***** but still shouldnt have been able to reach the cap so the only explanations for the cap being tore up is hot spark jumping around or something broke off and the rotor was throwing it all over the place...but if it was the spark case then yea u might have to replace the coil because its getting wore out real fast...ur looking at about 100 bucks to do the coil, cap and rotor...ain bad really...

 

You said that the CEL came on, right? Well do you know what code your ECU is throwing? Maybe this could be of some help.

Good Luck.

 

check your o2 senser.
this might sound stupid but check it.. don't ask why.. it happened to me once
car doesn't start, cel, and whole other problems after i installed my exhaust and intake. went through all the trouble and found out it was the o2 sensor..
anyways good luck

 

About the CEL, It came on right before I shut the car off but has not been back on since. And the 02 sensor was just replaced a few months back.

Also I have a buddy that will sell me a 91 integra distributor for 20 bucks, but I think it is different. Can anyone tell me what the difference is. Can I use the coil? Thanks for all the help I will go pick up a cap and rotor right now and then see if that has any affect.

 

Well if its the coil sometiems just replacing the cap and rotor will make it work for a bit longer but then craoks right when u leave the drive way...if it starts then try and rev it like blip the trottle real fast and see if it bogs...oh and get that whole distributor off him cause u can sell them for 80-100 used...but im not sure if the coil is the same for different obd series...just buy the whole thing and if so change it..if not sell it, get money and u'll get a free coil plus 20 buc ks after and a running car....