Major Gas Problem....
Can someone help me? My problem is that my car is getting poor MPG and lacking some power. I added some exaust stuff and a cheap air intake. Change distrubiture cap, rotor, plugs, and plug wires. Please, serious reply only.
Caleb
Caleb
I'm getting around 20 mpg in town and I have a 92 Accord EX, 2.2L F22a 5-Speed Manual. It used to get around 27-30 mpg about a year ago, but it recently dropped big time. I've added a High-Flow cat with a factory muffler and a cheap ram jet intake.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIMATIC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what bout o2 sensors!</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea, o2 sensor might be a big one to check out, there should be no huge reason for a drop in MPG.
yea, o2 sensor might be a big one to check out, there should be no huge reason for a drop in MPG.
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Have you tried to reset the ECM after you installed all the extras?
Warm engine up, pull the ECM fuse, wait 5-15 min., reinstall fuse, start car but DON"T TOUCH GAS, let idel, after about 5 min, turn off car, restart, then drive.
Then check MPG. If still poor after that then you need to look over your system.
Warm engine up, pull the ECM fuse, wait 5-15 min., reinstall fuse, start car but DON"T TOUCH GAS, let idel, after about 5 min, turn off car, restart, then drive.
Then check MPG. If still poor after that then you need to look over your system.
O2 sensor is a possible thing, but I'd check the spark timing first.
What kind of plugs & wires did you get? Check their gap or trust it? Did this happen right when you replaced that stuff?
New fuel pump? Wow. Why was that done? Any big recent work might give a hint about what's going on...
What kind of plugs & wires did you get? Check their gap or trust it? Did this happen right when you replaced that stuff?
New fuel pump? Wow. Why was that done? Any big recent work might give a hint about what's going on...
The problem started about a month and a half ago when my car broke down. I went to autozone to find out what the problem was and told me that it was the fuel pump. Plus everybody else that knows anything else about car also said it was the fuel pump. I replaced the fuel pumps that took all weekend and cost me about 150 bucks. It didn't fix the problem! But when I did fix my car, the MPG was the same as before replaced the fuel pump. I'm fairly sure timing is right on because I adjust the cam and crank to their proper markings for timing. The plug wires were Bosoh(Check spelling) OEM Style plug wires and I reaplaced them a long time ago with the plugs. The plugs has proper Gapping and of good quality.
Anybody that has a 1990-93 Honda Accord that needs a new fuel pump, BUY A NICE ONE BECAUSE YOU WON'T WANT TO DO IT AGAIN!
Anybody that has a 1990-93 Honda Accord that needs a new fuel pump, BUY A NICE ONE BECAUSE YOU WON'T WANT TO DO IT AGAIN!
Check the plug wires for arcing... After dark, cold engine, turn off all the lights & start the engine. Watch for a dull blue glow. I've had Bosch wires on other cars & they didn't last as long as I'd like. But they had a lifetime warranty, so I got like 4 free sets out of the deal...
Bosch plugs? They've been ok for me, but lots of people around here say they're no good in Hondas. But still, this didn't happen at the same time you changed plugs.
Cam & crank markings are about camshaft timing. So that's OK - GOOD. But I was talking about spark timing. Got a timing light? Maybe the distributor worked loose & twisted a little bit?
New fuel pump didn't fix your earlier problem... so what did? What did the real problem turn out to be? I always hate it when people say 'it's gotta be the <--?-->'... without hardly looking at the car or measuring anything. Like actually measuring fuel pressure...
Fuel pump shouldn't kill your fuel mileage. They usually just quit working altogether.
Bosch plugs? They've been ok for me, but lots of people around here say they're no good in Hondas. But still, this didn't happen at the same time you changed plugs.
Cam & crank markings are about camshaft timing. So that's OK - GOOD. But I was talking about spark timing. Got a timing light? Maybe the distributor worked loose & twisted a little bit?
New fuel pump didn't fix your earlier problem... so what did? What did the real problem turn out to be? I always hate it when people say 'it's gotta be the <--?-->'... without hardly looking at the car or measuring anything. Like actually measuring fuel pressure...
Fuel pump shouldn't kill your fuel mileage. They usually just quit working altogether.
worn clutch?
Put your car on emergency brake and slowly engage clutch at 1st gear. if car stalls right away, clutch is O.K. if it still runs after almost fully engaged - the clutch is worn. Worn clutch could cause poor power and gas milage. another way to tell if clutch is O.K. to see if the RPM does not move up/down somewhat erratically when going up on a hill (slipping clutch).
this is fairly simple way to eliminate the possibility of worn clutch.
Put your car on emergency brake and slowly engage clutch at 1st gear. if car stalls right away, clutch is O.K. if it still runs after almost fully engaged - the clutch is worn. Worn clutch could cause poor power and gas milage. another way to tell if clutch is O.K. to see if the RPM does not move up/down somewhat erratically when going up on a hill (slipping clutch).
this is fairly simple way to eliminate the possibility of worn clutch.
I haven't tried it yet, but I have a very good feeling that my clutch is worn and may be in need of replacement, but it seems to me there more to it. Back when my car broke down, the problem was the igniter in the distrubitor. How long did your wire plugs last? I would check spark timing, but it don't have a timing light(gun). Any other possiblities that I should look for that might cause this problem?
Thanks,
Caleb
Thanks,
Caleb
If you pay attention, you should be able to feel whether your clutch is slipping during normal driving. If it isn't, that's not the reason for the bad mileage. (But if it's worn out, they never get better by themselves...)
Timing lights aren't too expensive. My advice is still to check the spark timng.
Those plug wires only lasted about 40k miles, but it wasn't a Honda so who knows. Look for arcing, that's easy to check. Take off the distributor cap, look for anything funny in there, like rusty dust or arcing marks under the cap.
Put a bottle of Techron or something like that in the gas tank.
You started out suspecting the O2 sensor. That's not been ruled out either...
Timing lights aren't too expensive. My advice is still to check the spark timng.
Those plug wires only lasted about 40k miles, but it wasn't a Honda so who knows. Look for arcing, that's easy to check. Take off the distributor cap, look for anything funny in there, like rusty dust or arcing marks under the cap.
Put a bottle of Techron or something like that in the gas tank.
You started out suspecting the O2 sensor. That's not been ruled out either...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by supercreed2002 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is the likelyhood of the problem from Highest to lowest?</TD></TR></TABLE>I'd probably do this order... But 1, 2, & 3 all together can be checked within an evening.
1) Check spark timing. If you owned a timing light, this would be free.
2) Techron in gas tank. Never mind likelyhood, this can't hurt.
3) Arcing plug wires. Truly easy to check.
4) O2 sensor.
My philosophy is do the things that are free or cheap first, just to rule them out before you spend $$$ on the O2 sensor. OBD-2 cars have a much more sophisticated self-checking whether the sensor's OK. So if it was a 2002 Accord, I might not buy an O2 sensor unless that error code showed up.
I guess fouled injectors or arcing plug wires would make it run rough. You didn't complain of roughness, so ???
1) Check spark timing. If you owned a timing light, this would be free.
2) Techron in gas tank. Never mind likelyhood, this can't hurt.
3) Arcing plug wires. Truly easy to check.
4) O2 sensor.
My philosophy is do the things that are free or cheap first, just to rule them out before you spend $$$ on the O2 sensor. OBD-2 cars have a much more sophisticated self-checking whether the sensor's OK. So if it was a 2002 Accord, I might not buy an O2 sensor unless that error code showed up.
I guess fouled injectors or arcing plug wires would make it run rough. You didn't complain of roughness, so ???
What about the FPR, gromits around the FI themselves, faulty injector, bad connection to injector, bad pulse to injector, improper vacum hose connection, cloged EGR ports, fouled plugs, Fouled TB, Dirty intake, ect....
Too many possibles with this. Just have to start with what you know how to check and go from there. Just one by one until you find the issue.
Need lots more information before can say what might be the cause.
The lower MPG also could be from bad struts, bad tires, bad alignment, caliper drag, clutch, valve lash out of adjustment, ect.....
Too many possibles with this. Just have to start with what you know how to check and go from there. Just one by one until you find the issue.
Need lots more information before can say what might be the cause.
The lower MPG also could be from bad struts, bad tires, bad alignment, caliper drag, clutch, valve lash out of adjustment, ect.....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Euro R Truco »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How are u driving?? do u redline or regular driving, redlining drains the hell out of gas milage </TD></TR></TABLE>
this can be a problem too, alot of people who just get their exhaust/intakes usually become a bit more heavy footed wanting to hear the canisters..
and i noticed on my friends accord, he had a ebay muffler back then those 30$ n1 style kinds and it was killing his gas also... he did a full tune up/took off his 18's and put oems on for a week/ still the same... he bought a magnaflow catback, and his mileage slightly increased... could the exhaust be a cause??? im not sure but this happened on one of my buddies car, just throwing out a possibility...
this can be a problem too, alot of people who just get their exhaust/intakes usually become a bit more heavy footed wanting to hear the canisters..
and i noticed on my friends accord, he had a ebay muffler back then those 30$ n1 style kinds and it was killing his gas also... he did a full tune up/took off his 18's and put oems on for a week/ still the same... he bought a magnaflow catback, and his mileage slightly increased... could the exhaust be a cause??? im not sure but this happened on one of my buddies car, just throwing out a possibility...
Jim pretty much address to all area..
just to be sure, what brand of high flow cat did you get?(test pipe? resonated test pipe? does it have any honeycone ceremic material like randomtech?)
and does it have a hole for the secondary o2 sensor?
is it throwing a code or anything?
problem with crappy high flow cat is that some of them dont even have a hole for the o2 sensor, even some with the hole, the ecm probably can tell the catalyist process is not working effeciently.
i dont not sure about your accord but on some of the car, it would even go into close loop operation during steady cruise, which kills mileage even if you drives like grandma.
fuel pump shouldn't be your problem, check the fuel filter instead(not very likely but it's only 25 bucks)
just to be sure, what brand of high flow cat did you get?(test pipe? resonated test pipe? does it have any honeycone ceremic material like randomtech?)
and does it have a hole for the secondary o2 sensor?
is it throwing a code or anything?
problem with crappy high flow cat is that some of them dont even have a hole for the o2 sensor, even some with the hole, the ecm probably can tell the catalyist process is not working effeciently.
i dont not sure about your accord but on some of the car, it would even go into close loop operation during steady cruise, which kills mileage even if you drives like grandma.
fuel pump shouldn't be your problem, check the fuel filter instead(not very likely but it's only 25 bucks)
The brand of the cat is FAT CAT from japan and it looks like a very short cherry bomb. Therefore, the original hole for the Oxygen Sensor is still there where it was before modification(The oxygen sensor comes before the cat). It isn't sending any codes that I know of(Check Engine Light). I already changed the fuel filter within 12,000 miles ago, so that shouldn't be a problem.
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