Well I'm sitting here at my Helms and I just can't figure the **** out.

-I pulled out the cotter pin
-I took of the castle nut

It should just come off right??? I got the five lug from Downey and it was a little old and rusty. But I didn't expect that it would be any more difficult to install than any other five lug. I guess I'm wrong.

The A arms are bent from an accident on this five lug, which is the reason I don't just install the whole thing. So if you guys could help me that would be great.

 

WD40 and hammer the A arm downwards. Theres'a a tab sticking out made for you to hit on. You can also remove it with a balljoint remover tool. You can rent one from Kragen or Autozone. If not I can arrange something for you. Let me know, I'm down to help out a fellow HT homie.

 

Use an air ratchet and put it on that tab and let that sucka pop it out. That is if you have power tools.

 

hmm what does the tab look like????

Well now it really doesn't matter anymore because the five lug I bought is apparently unusable for the most part. The bottom of both knuckles, where the ball joint is there are supposed to be threads for a castle nut and the threads are all broken and snapped.

Not only that since the A arm is bent most likely the car was in a collision in the front and the knuckles might be tweaked, which was the only part I actually did need plus the hubs.

So now I'm out 400 bucks for some rusted piece of **** that I would probably need to spend 200 more at the dealer to get it working. **** I'm so pissed.

I was planning to sell the calipers too but guess what?? The pistons are rusted and seized. Rotors are rusted.....pretty much everything. I only really needed the knuckle and hubs, and now I just spent a **** load of time and money for nothing.

I really am going to kill that fat **** that stole my car.......there are members here that are friends with him too, you know who you are.


-Ken who has just about had it

I ******* flipped my lid when I saw the threads on the bottom of the five lug and I went to town on a jdm fender with a steel breaker bar.

 

THE TOOL IS CALLED A PICKLEFORK. Works wonders

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slow_Em1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">THE TOOL IS CALLED A PICKLEFORK. Works wonders </TD></TR></TABLE>... on killing balljoints.

BTW if you need a ball joint, I have a brand new one from acura NIB.

 

 

If the threads on the balljoint are bad, you can just get another ball joint. You can get them at anyplace like Autozone or Advance Auto parts. They're not very expensive either. You can also get a balljoint remover there. I recomend the in-line clamp style ones.

As long as the hub/knuckle isn't bent you can still get that up and running for very cheap.

 

oops maybe i should have specified this is for the upper arm not the lower one. But yeah the threads are jacked on both sides of the five lug on the lower ball joint so I guess I gotta replace those. I still don't know whether or not it was crashed because the upper arm is DEFINITELY tweaked. The gold portion that is supposed to be somewhat flat looks like an accordion.

Anyway yeah I dunno I'm trying to get the top ball joint off, I don't need to take the bottom one off because the thieves helped me do that already. I'm just trying to take off the upper arm from the knuckle so that I can get the knuckle onto my car to get it rolling for the swap to go in.

But it's no use til I can get to a dealer because these ball joints are toast. So after I get the knuckle on with working ball joints I should be ready to go.

Man I was so mad today I actually considered selling everything to my neighbor across the street who has been eyeing my build for three months.

Hopefully it doesn't come to that.

 

the best way to seperate that is by jackin up the hub assembly, sticking 14mm CRAFTSMAN impact socket between the hub and the lower A-arm, removing the jack and then standing on the hub. you may need to give it a little bounce but it should pop right off. i have done this countless times without fail.

*use CRAFTSMAN so that if you break the socket (almost impossible with an impact) you can get another one for free.*

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmspoonitr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But it's no use til I can get to a dealer because these ball joints are toast. So after I get the knuckle on with working ball joints I should be ready to go..</TD></TR></TABLE>

No need to go to a dealer you can get just as high quality balljoints for cheaper from any autoparts store. I guess I still don't quite understand what part is bent

 

just hit the arm in spot shown above. honda put it there for that exact reason. no damage done to you joints either

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b_cruz. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... on killing balljoints.

BTW if you need a ball joint, I have a brand new one from acura NIB. </TD></TR></TABLE>

if you use it right, then no. one good hit should knock it loose, otehrwise its gonna **** **** up if you yank and pull on it.

 

The part that is bent is the upper arm with the upper ball joint connected to it.

It has a brass colored bracket on it and that is what is bent along with the arm istelf.

 

i can help you if you bring it by my shop. but then again i dont know if you can even get it over there...

 

i can put it in my trunk! lol could use the help removing upper ball joints and removing and installing the lower ball joint

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Erik95LS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No need to go to a dealer you can get just as high quality balljoints for cheaper from any autoparts store. </TD></TR></TABLE>]

you think advanced/autozone balljoints are just as good as OEM?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mstewar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">]

you think advanced/autozone balljoints are just as good as OEM?</TD></TR></TABLE>

They carry a number of different ones at varying costs. No need to pay out the *** for something that won't do the job any better than a less expensive alternative.

 

Remove the same way you split lower ball joint. Hammer + little tab on top of spindle.