Hello everyone I hope someone here can solve my dilemna.

I have done the SOHC VTEC ZC swap into my '88 CRX and I purchase the MSD RPM Activated Switch PN-8671 http://static.summitracing.com...1.jpg
just like the honda hybrid site and many others say is a viable option.

HOW DO I WIRE IT?!

The best wiring diagram I have been able to come up with is this http://www.geocities.com/bing_....html
but my unit as you can see in the picture above has only two yellow wires running through it and the diagram shows four wires needed for installation. Do I just splice the two wires into 4?

ANY IDEAS AT ALL HELP PLEASE!!!!!

The engine is in and should be running tomorrow when i get a new carriage bolt for my fuel filter which got a screw broken in it. And a clamp for my fpr so it doesnt leak and I would really like to have the vtec power for the first gratifying run.


THANKS!

 

B-U-M-P
Help this New H-T member out

 

ttt

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ExcessiveCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hello everyone I hope someone here can solve my dilemna.

I have done the SOHC VTEC ZC swap into my '88 CRX and I purchase the MSD RPM Activated Switch PN-8671 http://static.summitracing.com...1.jpg
just like the honda hybrid site and many others say is a viable option.

HOW DO I WIRE IT?!

The best wiring diagram I have been able to come up with is this http://www.geocities.com/bing_....html
but my unit as you can see in the picture above has only two yellow wires running through it and the diagram shows four wires needed for installation. Do I just splice the two wires into 4?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

by the time you're done here with all this gay *** wiring **** you'll know enough to change to obd1.

 

<u>ok, ive never done it, but heres how i would do it:</u>

the switch and relay should be inside the car, so it lasts longer. put them by the ecu, which is under the passenger carpet by the firewall.

its pretty self explainatory, but ill break it down for you:

all DC powered devices have a power and a ground. this switch is no exception. the RED is a power input. The black runs to ground (chasis of the car).

the white wire goes to pin b17 or b15 of your ecu. this is what makes the switch click at the rpm for your VTEC to turn on.

The YELLOW wire is the output which goes to the relay. this is most likley whats confusing you. the reason the switch goes to the relay is the vtec needs a stong signal to turn on. the relay is nothing more then a light switch, ON or OFF. when the rpm hits the amount to flip the switch, it outputs on that YELLOW wire, which then flips the light switch (your relay) and sends the power to the vtec and off you go.


Red wire +12 V source
Black wire (-)Ground
White wire (-) side of ignition coil or splice/connect to pin location B15 or B17
Yellow wire connect to #86 of the relay


the relay is the same thing. remember, every DC powered device needs a power and a ground to work. even a relay. but since this part is much harder, im going to break this down one at a time:

#85 switched 12 volt means "ignition". this wire will go 12 volts when you turn the key. you can use the 12 volt wire of the ecu for this.

#86 this is the yellow wire from your switch, pretty easy, just hook it up.

#87 hook this up to a powered wire, 12 volts. (you can use the same one from pin #85, just tie the wire together)

#30 this is the OUTPUT of the relay, which sends power to the vtec solenoid. this is the ONLY wire you run under the hood to you vtec solenoid. all the other wires you can get from the ECU wires.

#87a they mention this so you DONT use it. DONT hook this one up, it wont do anything for this application.


note: for 4 cylinder, you have to cut the two loop wires
30 amp relay for the MSD rpm switch
#85 switched +12 volt source
#86 Yellow wire from the MSD RPM switch
#87 +12 volt source
#30 to Vtec solenoid(green/yellow wire)
#87a not used


I dont know what they mean by cut the two loop wires, because i dont have the piece in front of me. just do what it wants with that.

also, for any POWERED WIRE carrying 12 VOLT it needs to have a FUSE ON IT. this is very important. without a fuse, the switch will blow the fuse to the ecu under the hood, and youll be stuck on the side of the road... not a good thing, right? so make sure even if MSD didbnt put one on there, that you use a FUSE on all powered wires.

if you have any questions just ask.

 

i just went obd 1 route


flippign a switch will not add the extra fuel it will just turn it on

obd0-1 jumper harness most are 140-150
i got mine from boomslang

o2 sensor u can go generic or oem i went oem

p28 ecu, u can find alot of these i found one local for 100bux

correct obd1 dizzy

and wire up the injectors whichever style u choose obd1 style or stick with the resisitor pack

basicly the obd0-1 jumper harness has 8 extra wires u wire them up half of those wires are the o2 sensor, imo just wire up to obd1 its not a pain in the ***

 

Thank you for trying to help but the problem I have as stated above is that I don't know what to do with the two yellow wires coming from the switch. THERE ARE ONLY 2 YELLOW WIRES. So I need to know if I have to splice them into more wires for putting into the relay?

THANKS!

 

my rpm switch has like 5 wires. plus, the part number on mine is 8950, yours is differant. i bet you have the wrong one.

 

This is listed as one of the two working options on many web sites...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ba4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just went obd 1 route


flippign a switch will not add the extra fuel it will just turn it on

obd0-1 jumper harness most are 140-150
i got mine from boomslang

o2 sensor u can go generic or oem i went oem

p28 ecu, u can find alot of these i found one local for 100bux

correct obd1 dizzy

and wire up the injectors whichever style u choose obd1 style or stick with the resisitor pack

basicly the obd0-1 jumper harness has 8 extra wires u wire them up half of those wires are the o2 sensor, imo just wire up to obd1 its not a pain in the ***</TD></TR></TABLE>


yea, hes right. if its not adding the fuel into the mix, youll run way lean at high rpm. very bad idea if you want the motor to last.

his route wasnt too expensive. but if your determined, you need to call the people who make the switch, or scan the directions that came with it, i dont have enough info to answer your question.

 

Okay I got the different part # and wired it all up and VTEC is still not working. Is it possible that my choice for a switched power source is not good.

Please tell me what wires from the ecu you would use for switched 12V and regular 12V sources?

Also I tested it with a lightbulb as many sites indicate and the light did in fact light up so I am confused...

Is there maybe a problem with lengthening the ground wire from the msd switch??

Thanks !

 

well if its not working then youve got something wired wrong.

what you need is a multimeter. they are like 20 bucks at sears, get a red craftsman one.

what a meter does is you hook the black up to ground, and touch the wire with the red side, and it will tell you if the wire has 12 volt. it can also tell you if a wire is a ground.

look into one of those, youll only need to buy it once, itll last you forever. also for wire colors of stuff for the crx look here:

http://www.binghamtonlife.com/...t.htm

 

Go obd-1 I had my old hatch wired with just a vtec controller on my z6 and it was quicker than the a6 but not by too much, just go obd-1 you will be MUCH happier.

 

Thanks alot for all your help doublethink!

As for all of you who keep telling me to go OBD1, your wasting your time!
I am sticking with my pm6 then when I go turbo soon I will get a V-AFC and possibly chip my ecu and that should be beautiful. Not to mention I can save some of my cash for the turbo components in the meantime.

 

to install a V-AFC doesnt the car have to be wired in obd1???

 

anytime dude. plus that meter can troubleshoot almost anything on your engine, using the link to that manual i posted, just fyi...


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EFz6er &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to install a V-AFC doesnt the car have to be wired in obd1???</TD></TR></TABLE>

my friends got a 1990 eclipse running 18 lbs with a v-afc... its not odb-1...