What HP are you and type of FMU are you running ?

 

go with a real fuel management remember its only an engine!

 

dont go fmu it sucks ***...i have an fmu right now,tryin to save for hondata and tuning..save the money that u would buy the fmu with and get hondata or uberdata

 

i was thinking about getting a good FMU the begi not cheap 100.00 one !
im not going for 500whp right now... shooting for 300-350 maybe a lil more

 

My JRSC Integra ran fine with an FMU, 200whp.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RiceRocket12s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was thinking about getting a good FMU the begi not cheap 100.00 one !
im not going for 500whp right now... shooting for 300-350 maybe a lil more</TD></TR></TABLE>

what do u mean by a good fmu aren't they all the same
just use uberdata or soemthing free if money is the problem

 

FMU's do not suck ***. They are like anything else you put on a car, it needs to be done right or it blows things up. I've run one on my car at 10psi for a year and almost 15k miles on a stock motor and have had ZERO problems. It's a good way to run FI on a budget and still leave room to upgrade to Hondata at a later date.

 

I run a FMU, 450cc injectors, afc, missing link, 255lph pump inline pro head gasket and block gaurd. run the car at .9 bar daily and 1.1 bar at the track on a 18G....judging by my best traps and times I am right around 300whp....best trap is 116mph in a full stock interiored ITR and 12.8 is the best time

 

I remember about 5-6 years ago thats all there was and it worked then .I had it on my car with zero probs for 3 years and went turbo after a jrsc. people on here think just because you have a feul management that you are out of the woods Just like anything if done right it will work. Many people years ago used it with great results. so if you want to use one go ahead but make sure its done right

 

I have been running the Vortech FMU daily for about four months now and have had no issues.

 

what type of power are you guys making with the FMU ?

 

FMU

when you take it to the dyno guys actually make things run 100%, a FMU is a brain dead POS, get smart parts and run your turbo and engine efficient and safe, hey what if your FMU is defective and more power to you all running them with 10-14psi, but people running the same get better power with hondata or emanage or something that processes data.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by antisport &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FMU

when you take it to the dyno guys actually make things run 100%, a FMU is a brain dead POS, get smart parts and run your turbo and engine efficient and safe, hey what if your FMU is defective and more power to you all running them with 10-14psi, but people running the same get better power with hondata or emanage or something that processes data.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Of course, but people on a budget are accepting the FMU for what it is. Some just don't do it properly.. I'm running a 12:1 Vortech with a MSD Hi-flow fuel pump, I already run pig rich ALL of the time, I've never heard detonation, and my car doesn't run like ****. Why do you think people manufacture them if they're a 'POS'?

 

I run a Vortech 12:1 FMU, Walbro255 intank, missing link. I think it works great for a temporary fuel managment or people on a budet with low boost. Im just using mine until i get a chance for dyno tunning w/ my Uberdata chipped ECU. Uberdata is more dangerous than any FMU if its untuned. FMU's work outta the box and thats why a lot of us use it. Its proven to work w/o having to spend lots of cash to get it tuned in correctly. But everyone knows switching to AEM, Chrome, Hondata, Uberdata, Zydyne and all these other great programs would be better because they control the engine at almost all levels. not just more fuel pressure. So lets not make this an argument on whats better and stick to what the title says. FMU SETUP's! haha

FMU's are great tho, I ran 12.7 @ 110 on 8psi in my hatch

 

suprisngly using the FMU setup in conjunction with an AFC and wideband to take away and add fuel where need, works pretty good. I wouldn't run it but it's been done and proveen to be prettt good and reliable. cause your timngi will generally be stock sicne teh afc settigsn wont' be far from 0. and you can jsut add a BTM to help up top.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tchleung &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">suprisngly using the FMU setup in conjunction with an AFC and wideband to take away and add fuel where need, works pretty good. I wouldn't run it but it's been done and proveen to be prettt good and reliable. cause your timngi will generally be stock sicne teh afc settigsn wont' be far from 0. and you can jsut add a BTM to help up top.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You would have enough for Hondata after you paid for all that ****.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by antisport &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FMU

when you take it to the dyno guys actually make things run 100%, a FMU is a brain dead POS, get smart parts and run your turbo and engine efficient and safe, hey what if your FMU is defective and more power to you all running them with 10-14psi, but people running the same get better power with hondata or emanage or something that processes data.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Would you shut up already fucktard

 

so true

 

The FMU (high fuel pressures and no tuning) and AFC (advances your timing) are old school. Chipping your ECU is the way to go these days.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tchleung &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">suprisngly using the FMU setup in conjunction with an AFC and wideband to take away and add fuel where need, works pretty good. I wouldn't run it but it's been done and proveen to be prettt good and reliable. cause your timngi will generally be stock sicne teh afc settigsn wont' be far from 0. and you can jsut add a BTM to help up top.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i could use the MSD 6 BTM Racing Ignition wich will fix the timing issue! right ?

If you have a turbo or supercharger, the 6BTM is the ignition for you. You get MSD's multiple sparks and capacitive discharge power, and a built-in boost retard circuit to prevent detonation. The MSD-6BTM prevents detonation by automatically retarding the spark timing as the boost pressure increases. By electronically controlling the spark advance, a supercharged engine can operate on the threshold of detonation for maximum engine power and efficiency. The MSD-6BTM's spark timing retard can be adjusted from 1 degree per pound of boost to 3 degrees, with a maximum retard of 15 degrees. A convenient dash mounted control **** allows you to make adjustments while driving to compensate for changes in altitude, air temperature and fuel octane levels. The spark timing retard is activated by a boost pressure sensor located on the side of the unit, and also features a built in rev control.


Modified by RiceRocket12s at 10:10 PM 11/6/2004

 

hehe yeah. I was jsut putting my input in.. i myself run a AFC with custom ECU chip to fix the timming advance the afc does and also has 1 degree bosot retard to be safe. lil on the extreme side witht eh 1 degree. but better safe then sorry.

 

As long as your running low boost, it will be fine....Just remember they run alot of fuel pressure, so really you would not even want to run over 8-10 psi of boost anyway...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegunderpressure &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My JRSC Integra ran fine with an FMU, 200whp.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Same here! I have a plot of the AF its pretty mint, PM me if anyone wants it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tchleung &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hehe yeah. I was jsut putting my input in.. i myself run a AFC with custom ECU chip to fix the timming advance the afc does and also has 1 degree bosot retard to be safe. lil on the extreme side witht eh 1 degree. but better safe then sorry.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why not just ditch the afc and tune your car with uberdata? Your ECU is already chipped so your like halfway there...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beerbongskickass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why not just ditch the afc and tune your car with uberdata? Your ECU is already chipped so your like halfway there...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm in the process of using TurboEdit/BRE/Chrome at the moment. Just waiting for my burner etc toa rrive. it's pretty ahrd to find something that will support OBD0 VTEC boost. I can easily make a OBD0 VTEC basemap for NA right now. But can't seem to figure it out yet for VTEC. good old pgmfi.org