First Ill give u the list of things I changed
- upper and lower ball joints
- front wheel bearings
- new tires balanced 2 times
- outer tie rod ends
- front and rear rotors and pads 2 times w/ ss lines
- new Tein ss
- new left and right axels
- alignment

The car feels sloppy at highway speeds around 70 start feeling a vibration through the car worse when braking then it will go away Also it dosent happen all the time but it does most of the time. I did notice that last week when I did the rear brakes that one of the pads on one side was almost gone. Not sure on front or back anymore the whole car vibrates. Will a hung caliper cause this. And if it was hanging up wouldnt do it all the time. I dont hit my brakes on the highway unless I have to. It just acts up all the sudden than itll fade out. Help Please


Modified by gsrboi80 at 7:32 PM 11/5/2004

 

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have you tried to bleed your brakes...how are you doing this?? also it could be your rims that are bad too...try using someone elses rims w/ tires and try that...i also had the same problem with my bro's eg hatch but it just ended up being the rotors warped...hope this helps...

 

I would look at tires (Out of round, tread seperation, uneven wear, etc.) and balancing of the tires next

 

How about the inner-tie rods?

How many miles on the motor mounts?

Does it seem to track randomly when driving?

Does it seem 'self-corrective' - as in, you'll have times when the handling is mint and other times just total ***?

Do you always have the 70+ shake - or are there days when things seem fine and going 75 produces minimal vibration and then a couple miles down the road it starts vibrating again?

I'm dealing with the same thing; I've replaced (my 99 hatch has 210k):

Upper control arm (new ball joint)
used knuckles (that were pulled off a Civic I rode in)
used Lower control arm (same Civic + new compliance bushings)
used axles (same Civic)
new Koni Reds + GC's
new tires (Yokohama Avid Touring - balanced 2 times as well)

I have, but not installed, the rack end set (both inner and outter tie rods) for each side. I also have some Prothane mount inserts (the front lower two and rear tranny), as well as a CM stage 1 + used resurfaced flywheel (as I didn't resurface the original and its biting me in the *** now) and need to install these items too.

 

I'd get the rear calipers checked. They may be shot cuz you shouldn't be eating up pads like that.

As for the vibration, have you gotten the wheels balanced and an alignment done?

Worth a shot...

 

my friends wheel bearings were shot on his gsx, changed those, no more vibrations
this was in the back, we were able to shake the rim back and forth, not good

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hawjboi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have you tried to bleed your brakes...how are you doing this?? also it could be your rims that are bad too...try using someone elses rims w/ tires and try that...i also had the same problem with my bro's eg hatch but it just ended up being the rotors warped...hope this helps...</TD></TR></TABLE>yes bleed them 2 times 2 sets of rotors already<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gee3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd get the rear calipers checked. They may be shot cuz you shouldn't be eating up pads like that.

As for the vibration, have you gotten the wheels balanced and an alignment done?

Worth a shot...</TD></TR></TABLE> yes its been aligned<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93TealSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my friends wheel bearings were shot on his gsx, changed those, no more vibrations
this was in the back, we were able to shake the rim back and forth, not good </TD></TR></TABLE>replaced the front bearings the rears feel fine(so did the fronts but I changed them anyway)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How about the inner-tie rods?

How many miles on the motor mounts?

Does it seem to track randomly when driving?

Does it seem 'self-corrective' - as in, you'll have times when the handling is mint and other times just total ***?

Do you always have the 70+ shake - or are there days when things seem fine and going 75 produces minimal vibration and then a couple miles down the road it starts vibrating again?

I'm dealing with the same thing; I've replaced (my 99 hatch has 210k):

Upper control arm (new ball joint)
used knuckles (that were pulled off a Civic I rode in)
used Lower control arm (same Civic + new compliance bushings)
used axles (same Civic)
new Koni Reds + GC's
new tires (Yokohama Avid Touring - balanced 2 times as well)

I have, but not installed, the rack end set (both inner and outter tie rods) for each side. I also have some Prothane mount inserts (the front lower two and rear tranny), as well as a CM stage 1 + used resurfaced flywheel (as I didn't resurface the original and its biting me in the *** now) and need to install these items too.</TD></TR></TABLE>Inner tie rods- checked they feel ok

Motor mounts- 65000 on the car

It does seem self corrective somtimes its fine and other times it sucks

No it doesent always shake/vibrate it comes and goes

Do you think it can be the clucth/flywheel? Have you fixed the problenm yet

 

A vibration at 70+ is most likely a bent/out of balance wheel or choppy tires considering the work you've already done.

Also make sure the axel nut is very tight on the hub. That will cause a shimmy if it's not that tight.. Should use a 1/2 inch impact gun to torque that thing down until it doesnt move anymore. Then use a chisel and a hammer and indent the axel nut into the space in the shaft. If you don't do that, over time the axel nut will become loose.

DO NOT overtorque the lug nuts. We use an 80ft/lb torque stick at my work when tightening lug nuts. Overtorquing warps rotors again and again. People wonder why their rotors are warped every other oil change. well that's why.

If new tires and wheels do not help. You probably have an arm bent. That's very unlikely..but possible.. you would really have to smack something hard to bend a control arm. Also check for play in the stabilizer bar endlinks.

But i put money on 1 or more bent wheels.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by loud_whispers &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A vibration at 70+ is most likely a bent/out of balance wheel or choppy tires considering the work you've already done.

Also make sure the axel nut is very tight on the hub. That will cause a shimmy if it's not that tight.. Should use a 1/2 inch impact gun to torque that thing down until it doesnt move anymore. Then use a chisel and a hammer and indent the axel nut into the space in the shaft. If you don't do that, over time the axel nut will become loose.

DO NOT overtorque the lug nuts. We use an 80ft/lb torque stick at my work when tightening lug nuts. Overtorquing warps rotors again and again. People wonder why their rotors are warped every other oil change. well that's why.

If new tires and wheels do not help. You probably have an arm bent. That's very unlikely..but possible.. you would really have to smack something hard to bend a control arm. Also check for play in the stabilizer bar endlinks.

But i put money on 1 or more bent wheels.</TD></TR></TABLE>When I had the wheels balanced They seemed fine no wobble spinned true. Yea Axel nut is fine. 2 Tires are brand new and the other 2 Have no more than 10000 tread still good. I look at the arms Plus I never hit anything or bottomed it out to bend an arm.

 

Ok.
the above post wasnt reguarding heavy vibration while braking.
That was reguarding normal driving conditions.

a pulsation at the pedal under braking is caused by the rotors or uneven pad wear.

Did you purchase NEW rotors? or did you have them cut?
A good rotor cut job or new rotors and pads will take away any vibration under braking.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsrboi80 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When I had the wheels balanced They seemed fine no wobble spinned true. Yea Axel nut is fine. 2 Tires are brand new and the other 2 Have no more than 10000 tread still good. I look at the arms Plus I never hit anything or bottomed it out to bend an arm.</TD></TR></TABLE>

even though they do not wobble, doesnt mean they aren't bent. They will balance out to zero on a balancer even if the wheel is bent.. That's why weights are used to compensate.

sometimes to confirm for customers that their wheels are bent...we actually dismount the tire, break out the dial indicator and measure any out of roundness. Even though it is a slight bend, it will still cause a vibration.

Customers are pissed when they find out they have to spend 1200$ on brand new Acura TL wheels to get rid of steering wheel shimmy

 

The vibration comes at highway speeds (not when braking)2 sets of new rotors in the front w/new pads new pads and rotors in the back

 

do this for me..

go out to your car and count how many wheel weights you see on your wheel..
get back to me

 

2 on each front wheels on the ouside not sure about inside
1 on each rear wheels on the outside not sure about inside

 

a wheel should only use 1 weight per side.
there should only be 2 total weights on 1 wheel..

the person who balanced your wheel either doesnt know how to compensate, or the wheel is bent and he needed extra weight to compensate for the bend.

try rotating the back wheels to the front and the front to the back.
See if it's as bad.

 

I did rotate back to front when I put the new tires on did not seem to change anything If Im gonna try balance agian (thrid time) since you said that

 

it's not worth it to balance if the wheel is bent..

i would borrow a set of your friends wheels and see if it takes away the shimmy.

Just make sure his wheels arent bent!

 

Today the car felt fine no shake/vibration at all. WTF is going on it comes and goes wouldnt you feel a bent rimm all the time

 

anything to do with suspension, you will feel all the time. Whether it's 2 mph or 90mph..

slight bends in wheels CAN BE intermittant, so can choppy tires.
depending on how choppy the tires are and how bent the wheel is.

A slight bend in the wheel is normally felt at higher speeds when the tire expands due to heat to maintain traction. Therefore, the tire stretches and the bend in the wheel becomes much more noticeable in the steering wheel. Some people with thick tire sidewalls will not even feel the bend in the wheel because of all rubber protecting the wheel. Although, some do..

wheels or tires..
pretty much narrow it down to them two.
I think it's 1 or more wheels that are bent.

Like i said, see if your friends or your mom will let you borrow their wheels and tires for a couple hours and see if the vibration is there..

 

Thanks man I have to steel my girls rims and tires for a little this weekend. Ill get back to you when I do. Wouldnt they have benn able to see a bent wheel the two times the tires got balanced? Wouldnt it be way out?