Vibration When Braking *yes, I used search, please read*
#1
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Vibration When Braking *yes, I used search, please read*
OK so for the last few weeks i have been obsessing over my eg hatch's vibration on moderate to moderate heavy braking. It lessens with heavy braking. When i hit the brakes and slowly coast to a stop, i notice a weird *whop whop whop* like something is out of round on that side and it feels like the brake grabs MORE on a certain spot on the rotor. Also the vibration is coming from the passenger side this has been confirmed from several passengers...lol.
That being said, a while ago when removing the pass side spindle/knuckle, I had the hardest time getting that bottom ball joint out. It took me 2 days, and a smaller sledge hammer to get it un~seized. I honestly cannot link that issue to this action for sure as i remember the car being ok after that.
Before you judge like most msg boards do lol, i have replaced the following w NEW parts::
-New Rotors and pads front
-New Rear Drums, Wheel cylinders, Shoes, ALL hardware, even the adjusters
-Steering Rack (new)
-Tie Rod ends
-Pass side Knuckle Ball Joint (the one at the bottom of the spindle)
-New master cylinder
-Put UGR Coilovers on
The only other thing i can think of is perhaps the hub itself is out of round? I have checked, and it looks good to me, spins fine etc...
Im out of ideas though. Anyone?
Thanks
Corey
That being said, a while ago when removing the pass side spindle/knuckle, I had the hardest time getting that bottom ball joint out. It took me 2 days, and a smaller sledge hammer to get it un~seized. I honestly cannot link that issue to this action for sure as i remember the car being ok after that.
Before you judge like most msg boards do lol, i have replaced the following w NEW parts::
-New Rotors and pads front
-New Rear Drums, Wheel cylinders, Shoes, ALL hardware, even the adjusters
-Steering Rack (new)
-Tie Rod ends
-Pass side Knuckle Ball Joint (the one at the bottom of the spindle)
-New master cylinder
-Put UGR Coilovers on
The only other thing i can think of is perhaps the hub itself is out of round? I have checked, and it looks good to me, spins fine etc...
Im out of ideas though. Anyone?
Thanks
Corey
#2
Re: Vibration When Braking *yes, I used search, please read* (cdscivic)
I would check your wheel bearing. i would guess that you should be able to hear the wheel bearing if it were that bad but it only takes a second to check and its free. Other wise its possible that the new drums or rotors you bought are warped or out of round. this has happened to me twice on two different cars once it was the druns and the other the rotors. I had the drums cut for ten bucks a drum and the problem was gone.
#3
Re: Vibration When Braking *yes, I used search, please read* (cdscivic)
I have to agree with LS. Where did you get the rotors from, alot of parts stores like carquest pep boys etc. You need to resurface your rotors and drums before you put them on your car, even though they state that you dont. Otherwise you get the problem you describe.
#5
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (cdscivic)
You know you can't resurface cross drilled and slotted rotors right?
Brembo blanks are the way to go.
You should have replaced wheel bearings while you had the knuckle out. Since your throwing money at this problem anyway, why stop short.
Brembo blanks are the way to go.
You should have replaced wheel bearings while you had the knuckle out. Since your throwing money at this problem anyway, why stop short.
#6
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Re: (sauceja)
Brembo blanks +2
Yeah, check the wheel bearing. Just jack your car up and leave it in neutral. Spin each front wheel manually and listen for a grinding/popping noise.
Yeah, check the wheel bearing. Just jack your car up and leave it in neutral. Spin each front wheel manually and listen for a grinding/popping noise.
#7
Honda-Tech Member
When you put the new rack in, did you have it aligned or "eye ball it"? With a measuring tape and some time, you can get pretty close at home. I've done it that way and been well within spec. But if it's out of spec, when you brake, you slightly change the toe, so it could be that. Check your tires. Run your hand across the tread. If it's jagged one direction or the other, your alignment is bad.
Also, throw the front on jack stands. Start it up and pop it in 5th and tap the gas. Watch for any up and down motion in the tire. You might have one that's out of round, or a bent wheel. Braking, putting more force on the front wheels, could be making the symptoms known. While it's up in the air, check for play in the wheel bearing.
Drop it down, have a friend turn the steering wheel back and forth about 1/8th turn each way. Lay on your back and reach in so your hand rests on both the outter tie rod and the knuckle. If you can feel any clunking there, the tie rod is toast.
Grab the top of the wheel and shake in and out. If there is any clunking, that's normally the upper ball joint. You can have someone else shake it while covering the joint and that part of the knuckle with your hand. You will feel movement if it's bad.
Did this problem start after doing a specific mod?
Also, throw the front on jack stands. Start it up and pop it in 5th and tap the gas. Watch for any up and down motion in the tire. You might have one that's out of round, or a bent wheel. Braking, putting more force on the front wheels, could be making the symptoms known. While it's up in the air, check for play in the wheel bearing.
Drop it down, have a friend turn the steering wheel back and forth about 1/8th turn each way. Lay on your back and reach in so your hand rests on both the outter tie rod and the knuckle. If you can feel any clunking there, the tie rod is toast.
Grab the top of the wheel and shake in and out. If there is any clunking, that's normally the upper ball joint. You can have someone else shake it while covering the joint and that part of the knuckle with your hand. You will feel movement if it's bad.
Did this problem start after doing a specific mod?
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#8
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sauceja- Yes i know you cannot, i also HAD brembo blanks before these lol. I had no reason to believe there was an issue with it, so i didnt replace it. The only reason I took the pass side off was to do my swap, but i fecked up the ball joint while removing it, sooo i had to take it to a shop to have pressed...just the pass side. Are you saying i shoulda replaced it then?
ek - werd...will do
Bakeoff - I had it aligned, The rims are new slipstream 15's w 50 series tires that are also new...well last 4 months new. I have replaced the TR Ends on both sides...
I cant tie this to a specific mod unfortunately. I was experiencing it prior to installing all of those parts up there. The chassis it self has almost 285,000 miles on it, and i am sure it is the OG bearing. I think i am going to purchase a used knuckle/spindle from online. That way if the hub is out if round, or the bearing is shot, ill have a another entire piece to swap in.
OR
DO you think I should just take it off and have the bearing replaced?
ek - werd...will do
Bakeoff - I had it aligned, The rims are new slipstream 15's w 50 series tires that are also new...well last 4 months new. I have replaced the TR Ends on both sides...
I cant tie this to a specific mod unfortunately. I was experiencing it prior to installing all of those parts up there. The chassis it self has almost 285,000 miles on it, and i am sure it is the OG bearing. I think i am going to purchase a used knuckle/spindle from online. That way if the hub is out if round, or the bearing is shot, ill have a another entire piece to swap in.
OR
DO you think I should just take it off and have the bearing replaced?
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