Alright, this has been going on for weeks and it's becoming a bit annoying. At first, when I turn the key on, an extremely rapid clicking happens and I don't hear the fuel pump and my speedometer becomes very erratic (kind of corresponding with the rapid clicks from the relay).

So a friend and I figured that it's possibly the main relay at fault. Before the replacing the main relay, I turned the key on again but this time, there is no more clicking, but no whirring from the fuel pump as well (thinking that the relay's probably completely done).

Still thinking it's the main relay at fault, I replace it just today. I turn the key on with hope that I would hear the whir from the fuel pump. But no, nothing happens. Same ****.

Now here's the weird thing that I noticed: now every time I turn the key on, not only do I not hear the new relay click, I don't see the Check Engine Light turn on initially.

I'm sure I'm not the only one who is experiencing this, so what the hell could be wrong? I need help asap, cause I want to drive the car with an extra 300 cc's.

So why doesn't the CEL turn on anymore?

Here's the Swap:







Modified by 3 G's at 10:25 AM 11/6/2004

 

If possible, take a multimeter and check those wires that plug into the relay. I just had the same exact problem with my car. Sixty bucks later after replacing the relay, I found I had a shorted wire.

 

Yeah dude, I was hoping replacing that relay would do something, but that's just $$ down the drain, eh?

So let's just say it is a shorted wire. What did you do to solve the problem? (Sorry if I sound stupid, but I need all the info I can get)

Anyone else?

I'm also going to check for voltage to the fuel pump as well on Saturday.

 

Bump

I could really use the help and other suggestions.

 

what ECU are you using? don't know if it has anything to do with your problem just curious

 

Funny you should ask, cause I had this "mechanic" guy that kept on telling me the reason why it won't start was cause I have a Civic ECU in there.

However, me with my better judgement, I knew I had the correct one and I double checked to make sure it's a P75 and that it's the correct one for the engine.

Any other suggestions? Anyone?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3 G’s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Funny you should ask, cause I had this "mechanic" guy that kept on telling me the reason why it won't start was cause I have a Civic ECU in there.
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I'm pretty sure it would start even if it were a civic ECU. But I was thinking more along the lines of maybe you have a bad ECU. Do you have another obd1 ECU you can plug in to test?

 

Well, the only other OBD1 ECU that I can think of is the original one. Yeah, I was also kinda thinking that it would start to, but it would just run like ****. I should probably give that a shot (trying the other ECU) as well to see what would happen.

I was also thinking the other day that it was possibly a bad ECU or something as well. Unfortunately, my knowledge on car computer tech is extremely limited but I opened up the ECU and looked for any burns or anything possibly wrong with it, but as far as I was concerned, nothing seemed wrong. Again, my knowledge on that part is extrememly limited. So I don't know.

Hope I can find out tomorrow what could be wrong.

There's gotta be more people who have experienced this......especially people who have done their own swaps.

 

bump for dis guy

 

No idea, but if it has something to do with clicking relay, I'd definately check the wireing on everything. Since it seems to be a electronical problem. This maybe a stupid question but did you plug in all your plugs on your harness?
Driver side tower as well?
What electronic compoments work?
radio? headlight? hazard? break lights?
Let us know.

I hate wiring

 

Thing is, I just replaced the relay and I don't hear a single click anymore and the CEL doesn't turn on initially anymore.

Yes, I did check plug everything in. I'm using my original harness. Oil pressure sending unit is a bit tight and for all I know, it might not be making complete contact.

Yes, wiring and electrical problems do suck.

 

Normally when something doesn't work, you troubleshoot the problem. That means you get a wiring diagram and a meter and find out whats wrong. What I'm hearing here is what we used to call the "Shotgun Technique" where you throw parts at a problem and hope it goes away.

At this point, you don't have a clue what's wrong and don't seem to have a game plan for figuring it out. Turn on the ignition and start checking the different circuits. It's most likely a wiring problem because, I imagine the car worked BEFORE the swap. That means the relay worked, the pump worked and all the other parts worked that you didn't swap.

 

When i was done with my swap i tried starting it to the point when my girl said she seen smoke come from the starter.
Thats when i starting thinking,ok,fuel,air,spark.
Checked spark,and air the intake was ok,so i took out my backseat and listened and it was the fuel pump.
I just ran a wire from my fuse panel to the positive of the pump and when i turned it to acc the pump turned on.
I let it pressurize the line and i swear i didnt even turn the key halfway and rrrrrrrrrrrraaaaaagh,it started.
Ive taken the wire off and it still runs so i know its my relay,ive heard sometimes if your car sits in the sun it wont let is start.
I hope you get it figured out,id take the starter and the alt to autozone just so i knew they were good.


Modified by EVILhatch at 7:37 PM 11/6/2004

 

There you go, sensible trouble-shooting that didn't cost a dime in parts (till he found the actual broken part).

 

Yeah, I know I should've done that. Stupid me. Ah well, at least now I know if my relay craps out on me, I've got another sitting at home

*UPDATE*

Finally found out what the problem was thanks to a friend of mine for the big help.
First problem was that the MAP sensor and TPS sensor were mixed up, so that probably explained why the CEL didn't turn on initially and why the Fuel Pump didn't prime as well.
Then, the biggest culprit was that the injectors were seized so what we did while cranking the engine over was we kept tapping on each injector until we got fuel coming out of them.
Can't wait till I get to drive it now

 

Go out and dirve that thing. Be safe.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3 G’s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Finally found out what the problem was thanks to a friend of mine for the big help.
First problem was that the MAP sensor and TPS sensor were mixed up, so that probably explained why the CEL didn't turn on initially and why the Fuel Pump didn't prime as well. </TD></TR></TABLE>

wtf? even if the map and tps are swtiched, your car should still crank and your fuel pump should still prime. wierd. good to hear you got ur **** started. i had seized injectors on my car too... i just used my old b16 ones.

 

ok, i just came across this same problem tonight too. b18b into an hx, converted to obd1 via a conversion harness. when the key goes on position, the check engine light doesnt light up at all, main relay dont click, i cant hear the ecu and the fuel pump doesnt prime. all sensors are 99% hooked up to the right spots, because we labelled all of them. would this just be a bad ecu??

 

please make sure you have to correct harness. we came across the same problem at my friend's shop. one of the customers brought in a car they did a "swap" on but the damn thing wouldn't start. hmm...after 2 days of tinkering and checking up on pins for wire harness making sure nothing was short it was an auto harness and not an mt. Just my .02

 

I had the same sort of problem on 2 swaps but they were both grond wires from the engine or transmission.

 

all grounds should be accounted for. the harness i the hx one my car came with. we labelled all the sensors when we took the old motor out, so we knew what they were. here is the catch. i hardwired an oxygen sensor into the obd1 side of the ecu (because of the whole hx 5 wire thing). the only problem we can think of is we ran the o2 backwards, but i went back and checked and if i did, we didnt cut anything too important (except possibly the electric load detector), but im pretty sure we did it right...