Anybody running a 2.0L stroker kit on their ITR?? The kit was suggested to me as part of my ALL MOTOR setup and Im just trying to find out more about them. I tried to check out http://www.crower.com but the site is down and I dont really know any other manufacturers. Any info would be appreciated.

 

Don't you love how a site says they're bringing out a new look and they disable the old site in the meantime! It's not like they're remodeling a retail store front.

 

Here's another idea for a stroker kit JUN 2.0L 12.3:1 and a billet steel crank. http://www.diabloautosports.com/prod...oducts_id=2192


[Modified by TypeRdude, 7:27 PM 12/23/2001]

 

i believe that IPS racing also has spoon stroker kits, i dunno i good/bad their are

 

JUN makes a 2.0 stoker kit too.

 

Spoon doesnt make a 2.0L stroker kit anymore..I believe it was deemed too unreliable. Although irrelevant, they do make a 1.8L stroker kit for B16A/B motors.

 

Dayyyyyyyyyym.... $6,000 for a JUN Stroker kit... *Scratches that off mod list*.

 

 

yeah that is CRAZY expensive...probably because its JUN. Anybody know what the Crower kit goes for?

 

hell yea.....for 6k you might as well by an h22

 

..just leave your b18c5 alone, and build a b20 vtec? That way (1) you don't permanently maim your wondeful and perfect b18c5, (2) when/if the 2.0 liter motor goes boom, you'll have a spare motor in the garage so your not lingering around w/out transit for months at a time, and (3) b/c the b20 is a b-series, items like your tranny and head will bolt up, although I would not use your head, rather another b16 head and have that rebuilt. Also, you could resue your aftermarket parts as well: cams, header, exhaust, etc..

Trust me, there is no reason to tear apart a perfectly good motor. Build the b20, in the end you will have spent less, and you will not have screwed or screwed up your perferctly good motor.

Lastly, ImportBuilders is now offering "crate" style b20/vtec motors compete and ready to bolt in, w/ fully tunable engine managment and an added option of ITB's, probably for less than or a little more than what a stroker kit will cost! Check out the website, last time I checked they provided a dyno of a "mild" b20/vtec that was built, running an obd1 p28 putting down something like ~230 hp at the wheels, that something I would look into.
www.importbuilders.com


[Modified by bb6h22a, 2:26 PM 12/23/2001]


[Modified by bb6h22a, 2:27 PM 12/23/2001]

 

B20s are somewhat in the question of absolute reliability; they do not like to spin at high revs for extended periods of time... they break.

If you want to build a 2.0l stroker, go down to your local Honda dealership and pick yourself up a 2.0l Prelude crank for around CDN$800. Once you have the crank, you can contact Crower to get yourself appropriate rods and pistons.

Be aware, in order to fit this setup in your engine, you will have to cut reliefs in the base of the cylinders in order for the crank to clear. You are also going to lose your squirters, due to clearance issues again.

If you are going to do it, do it right. The B18C5 block is designed to run at high rpm for extended periods of time, the B20 will fail on you if you try and go extreme without all the proper re-enforcements.

 

6k for a damn stroker kit?

wow.

If anyone wants it...I can build them a 2.0 stroker kit for a B16A block. 1.54 rod ratio

Or, if you want the best....and I mean best...youll just take a Type-R block, sleeve it and bore it out to 84.5...which won't give you a 2.0, but mid 1.9's is good enough.

Type-R block is bad ***.

Jeff

 

I believe that the Jun Civics have nice Stroker Kits in them. Not sure? I read that some place, the numbers (dyno) and times (1/4) are quite good. Not sure what my point is but I have heard the Jun kits are good for Drags.

 

If you're scared of a B20 block then sleeve a GSR block to 84.5mm or 85.0mm and get a Cometic headgasket and Endyn pistons.

 

I think the consensus opinion here is:

2.0L on stock bore gives you CRAP rod:stroke....

i.e. stroker kits suck....

To get more displacement: B20 block or bore out the B18/B16 block.

 

...ditto...

 

Feel's B20TC

 

There is no "real" market for stroker kits...the investment to make them is too expensive for a market that doesn't exist.

And all this lame B17 crank in a B20 block is dumb as hell too. Just take the stock block, and work with that. Less hassle, less money, and WAY WAY less time.

Jeff

 

Jeff: Just some questions for my own education....have you ever successfully swapped an H22 into an integra without any problems with the driveshaft angles (daily driven)? Was a Hasport mounting kit or other special mounting requirements needed?

on the b16a stroker 2L kit, what crank do you use?

2fknfst: I presume by a Prelude crank you mean the H22 or H23 95 mm stroke cranks which would require a 134mm rod to fit the deck height of any B18....1.41 rod ratio...I would not rev that puppy past 6500 rpm.

deck height = stroke/2 + rod length + compression height + deck clearance

The stock B18C deck height is 212.39 mm. You can derive compression height + deck clearance from the stock numbers. This is how I arrived at 134mm rod length with a Prelude crank.

cheers

 

Prelude crank = 88-91 2.0 B20A
95mm stroke i believe.

h crank wont fit in a b motor.

 

Here is some education for you. Some real info you can use.

#1 A prelude motor requires "special" attention with axles, and there are no axles you can buy with money that fit perfect in a H22A swap. You must use 2 sets of axles. Which will remain un named. You must, with no other course of action, "rework" the axles to fit properly, otherwise they will "pop" out and cause problems under complete turns.

On the account of mount kits for the H22A. All the kits out there work fine, but in order to make them "perfect" to give you the proper axles angle, you must modify the rear mount from these fine mount companies.

Also...Toda already makes a Stroker kit for a B16A, all you have to do is bore it to 85 MM. 2 liter

You should know you can use just about ANY B series crank except B16A to get the 2.0 liters out of a B16A block. Why not use GSR? I feel so proud I was able to help you. I am touched. I wonder why you ask me? Is it because your mentors board is down?

GSR crank+ b16A block+ stock B16A rod length, + proper pistons + 85 MM = 2 liter.
it has a R/S ratio of 1.54

But who the hell is going to take a GSR crank and put it ina b16a? You would just use the GSR block, you got the crank from. Better rod ratio, better block, don't need custom pistons.

Jeff


[Modified by ImportReview, 2:20 AM 12/30/2001]

 

the axles that are needed are 90-93 integra axles for a h22 into an integra swap

 

sgT: as always, thanks. I know the info from you is checked and correct. I'd like to see if an H22 crank can be "made" to fit a B18 block or B20 block.

Jeff:

who is going to take a GSR crank? ...well if I read above on the 14th post in this thread:

I'm not trying to be a smart-alack...I was just wondering what you meant by a 1.54 rod ratio giving 2.0L. I thought you had a custom made crank or something that did not need the block to be bored out past 82mm which is what Jun has in their kit (82mm x 94mm with a 134mm rod length).Going past 82mm means resleeving with Golden Eagle sleeves...more cost to the customer.

Thanks Vtec integra. your info is much appreciated and right on! (BTW do you live near Road America or the Realtime Racing complex?). On the topic of axles, the September 2001 issue of Sport Compact Car had a "How To swap an H22A into a Civic" article - and confirm that a 90-93 Integra axles "fits perfectly" or a leftside 90-93 Accord intermediate shaft with a 90-93 Integra lefthand axle. I just didn't know if this was the same for the 3rd gen. Integra as well.

but Jeff, if you want to keep the axle info a " proprietary secret" then that's fine with me. It's not like I do this for a living and am competing with you to sell Crate motors or something buddy....LOL.

Thanks for the info on the mounts. It sounds very similar to the civic swap.

That was definitely good real info I could use. Great info everyone.


cheers




[Modified by Michael Delaney, 8:03 PM 12/29/2001]

 

one more quick question: who makes an off the shelf 85mm bore pistons for the B18C ? I assume it has to be custom? or are the usual suspects needed to be rounded up? JE, STR...Arias has a bit of a bad rep with the loose specs and skirts rattling around as the piston travels up and down...