Zex dry Kit: 101
Hey im buyin a zex dry kit off another member and I knwo Some of the things i have to do, but im a little IFFY of the others,
THIS THREAD IS NOT TO DEBATE WHETHER nitrous is GOOD or NOT.. end of story
List of things to do:
1. Check compression, and make sure al lthe numbers are close to eachother
2. colder plugs
3. retard timing ( how to???)
4. Tune with VAFC ( alittle richer?)
what else?
fuel pump upgrade?
antyhing else?
THIS THREAD IS NOT TO DEBATE WHETHER nitrous is GOOD or NOT.. end of story
List of things to do:
1. Check compression, and make sure al lthe numbers are close to eachother
2. colder plugs
3. retard timing ( how to???)
4. Tune with VAFC ( alittle richer?)
what else?
fuel pump upgrade?
antyhing else?
reatrding timing: loosen distributor bolt, turn dizzy towards radiator......
you dont need to richen up much on the vafc cause the zex kit has a fuel pressure indicator that sprays an amount of nitrous equal to fuel pressure....ie: you may have a 50 shot in but if fuel pressure is low you may only get 40hp, kinda foolproof.
also unless you are going above 50hp i wouldnt even retard timing, general rule is 2 degress for every 25hp, over 50.
use good gas, and some colder plugs, like ngk br7's on ngks the higher the # the colder the plug, its backwards on ngk's
you dont need to richen up much on the vafc cause the zex kit has a fuel pressure indicator that sprays an amount of nitrous equal to fuel pressure....ie: you may have a 50 shot in but if fuel pressure is low you may only get 40hp, kinda foolproof.
also unless you are going above 50hp i wouldnt even retard timing, general rule is 2 degress for every 25hp, over 50.
use good gas, and some colder plugs, like ngk br7's on ngks the higher the # the colder the plug, its backwards on ngk's
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrbsponge »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">reatrding timing: loosen distributor bolt, turn dizzy towards radiator......
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im pretty sure thats advancing. isn't it?
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im pretty sure thats advancing. isn't it?
no toward the radiator is retarding timing, look in your helms manual, if you are looking in a haynes you wont find anything.
and a honda EFI fuel pump is very well capable of supporting a dry nos kit
and a honda EFI fuel pump is very well capable of supporting a dry nos kit
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um.... kind of mixed signals? bout fuel pump
i woulnd't have to get a really big one would i ?
Walbro 190lph fuel pump??
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump,?
or just tstock
i woulnd't have to get a really big one would i ?
Walbro 190lph fuel pump??
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump,?
or just tstock
The Zex kit relies on raising fuel pressure to increase fueling for the nitrous. You want a 255lph high pressure fuel pump. I was leaning out with the stock fuel pump and a 75 shot, the 255lph hp pump solved it.
the main reason you were going lean on a dry kit is because you are maxxing out the injectors not because you ran out of gas, just the ability to move it into the motor, seeing is you never spray any fuel at all.
i sprayed a wet 100 shot on a stock gsr, with factory 93si fule pump and was fine, i do suggest a walbro 255 just for the other mods you may have.
and as far as a pressure regulator, you need one that doesnt have a removable diaphragm, AEMs FPR is not the best for dry notrous it will blow it apart due to high pressure. the stock unit is good because it is solid. youcan use the B&M add on unit because it retains the stock FPR body.
like i said i know a good amount about nitrous
i sprayed a wet 100 shot on a stock gsr, with factory 93si fule pump and was fine, i do suggest a walbro 255 just for the other mods you may have.
and as far as a pressure regulator, you need one that doesnt have a removable diaphragm, AEMs FPR is not the best for dry notrous it will blow it apart due to high pressure. the stock unit is good because it is solid. youcan use the B&M add on unit because it retains the stock FPR body.
like i said i know a good amount about nitrous
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkspeedVtec95 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">arh... even with a vafc?
couldn't i just maxout my injectors? or are they?
are all pumps universal?</TD></TR></TABLE>
you'd do MUCH better raising rail pressure than maxing your injectors out...you'll burn them out quick if you run them at 100% duty cycle too long. That and your spray pattern will distort a lot more at higher duty cycles (which isn't something you want when you need maximum atomization of fuel such as in a nitrous app).
stock honda fuel pump is only good to about 60psi of rail pressure before it simply wont be able to hold the pressure demands...Just max out on a big fuel pump, they are all within $10 of each other on ebay anyway.
also, why are you wanting to simply turn the dizzy and retard the timing? that's super ghetto and you'll always be running retarded that way regardless of spraying or not. hell, it's your gas mileage not mine...
but I'd look into getting an MSD BTM or something so you can retard on the fly...
couldn't i just maxout my injectors? or are they?
are all pumps universal?</TD></TR></TABLE>
you'd do MUCH better raising rail pressure than maxing your injectors out...you'll burn them out quick if you run them at 100% duty cycle too long. That and your spray pattern will distort a lot more at higher duty cycles (which isn't something you want when you need maximum atomization of fuel such as in a nitrous app).
stock honda fuel pump is only good to about 60psi of rail pressure before it simply wont be able to hold the pressure demands...Just max out on a big fuel pump, they are all within $10 of each other on ebay anyway.
also, why are you wanting to simply turn the dizzy and retard the timing? that's super ghetto and you'll always be running retarded that way regardless of spraying or not. hell, it's your gas mileage not mine...
but I'd look into getting an MSD BTM or something so you can retard on the fly...
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