how long does it take for methanol to contaminate the oil on an h22 with stock oiling system?? one pass or so??

 

Alot of it depends on how rich you run and how hot you run the oil. If you have much of a radiator and nothing to warm the oil then it will contaminate fast. You have to keep the oil hot and you'll never get it up to ideal temp w/o another way of warming it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prostockcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how long does it take for methanol to contaminate the oil on an h22 with stock oiling system?? one pass or so??</TD></TR></TABLE> Also i have found different types of oil are easy contaminated.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alot of it depends on how rich you run and how hot you run the oil. If you have much of a radiator and nothing to warm the oil then it will contaminate fast. You have to keep the oil hot and you'll never get it up to ideal temp w/o another way of warming it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Another issue is ring-gap. With alcohol burning engines, a lot of people run a tighter ring gap to lessen blow by. There are negitive effects to this as well, but I would feel most comfortable changing the oil every 1/4mi pass to conserve bering life.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alot of it depends on how rich you run and how hot you run the oil. If you have much of a radiator and nothing to warm the oil then it will contaminate fast. You have to keep the oil hot and you'll never get it up to ideal temp w/o another way of warming it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i have no radiator just a external water pump(could maybe leave it off a little longer after start up)what would be ideal temp?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TEAMGENDAI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Also i have found different types of oil are easy contaminated. </TD></TR></TABLE>
after two 3rd gear pulls on the dyno it looked like coffee extra light and sweet????

 

What coolant temps are you seeing on a run? You're not logging oil temp, are you?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quik Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I would feel most comfortable changing the oil every 1/4mi pass to conserve bering life. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i think you got a point

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What coolant temps are you seeing on a run? You're not logging oil temp, are you?</TD></TR></TABLE>
had a hard time getting it up to 120 degrees, so i made a pass because the fumes were killing me

 

We have gone as far as 4 passes on one oil change of Mobil1. Usually we change it every pass depending on how hard we ran the car. After one pass its definitely coffee...Also a tip, get the engine warm, atleast 160 or so before making a pass. It reduces blowby when the motor is fully expanded. We run no radiator, simply a water pump to circulate water. We replaced the bearings after about 6 races just for grins, but they still looked fine. I think if everything is setup OK, you should/could make a whole season of racing... Hope this helps...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mbrauning1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> We run no radiator, simply a water pump to circulate fuel. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you mean a fuel pump to circulate water, or did I read that wrong?

 

yeah! thanks

 

if a motor has such hard time reaching a high temp. wouldnt you be able to build and tune a motor to run at those lower than usual tems. just me thinkin here cuz i mean it kinda makes a small bit of sence that way, motor only gona see full load for less than 11.5 seconds (if an am) how hot can it get? but then again what would you change during the build of the motor? just ring gap not much more. right? iunno just wondering what you guys are doing on the am meth cars.

Ed-

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mbrauning1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We have gone as far as 4 passes on one oil change of Mobil1. Usually we change it every pass depending on how hard we ran the car. After one pass its definitely coffee...Also a tip, get the engine warm, atleast 160 or so before making a pass. It reduces blowby when the motor is fully expanded. We run no radiator, simply a water pump to circulate water. We replaced the bearings after about 6 races just for grins, but they still looked fine. I think if everything is setup OK, you should/could make a whole season of racing... Hope this helps...</TD></TR></TABLE>
great I'll try to get it hotter next time sounds like the issue, btw do you know where i can get any quality 90mm head gaskets for the h22?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mbrauning1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah! thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>
We run a venom pump to circulate intercooler water-- kinda ot, but I'm somewhat concerned with running a fuel pump for water. I'm no fuel pump expert, but I get a concerned that the pump is only desiged to pump petrol-type products, and will eventually seaze from corosion... what do you guys think?

 

We have had good luck with a stock gasket that has been bored a machine shop to match your bore. Mike at RS has always supplied us gaskets... Unless you are detonating like crazy, pushing too much timing, or if it gets hot, that should be more than sufficient. When meth gets drawn in to the intake, the air cools it like crazy, so given that and the normal expansion of the pistons, rods, block, we've simply warmed the car up a bit before making a pass. Ideally we try to launch at around 180, and at the end of the track, its just over about 210. Normal ring gap, nothing different internally other than different head chambers...

 

Chris, I meant "water pump to circulate water", not a fuel pump...sorry for the confusion. We use an external pump with the stock H22 water pump removed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mbrauning1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We have had good luck with a stock gasket that has been bored a machine shop to match your bore. Mike at RS has always supplied us gaskets... Unless you are detonating like crazy, pushing too much timing, or if it gets hot, that should be more than sufficient. When meth gets drawn in to the intake, the air cools it like crazy, so given that and the normal expansion of the pistons, rods, block, we've simply warmed the car up a bit before making a pass. Ideally we try to launch at around 180, and at the end of the track, its just over about 210. Normal ring gap, nothing different internally other than different head chambers... </TD></TR></TABLE>
great info, thank you very much i appreciate your time.
this helps a ton

 

how long does it take you to get to temp?

 

Depends on your idle mixture...too rich will take longer of course, we run fairly rich, so we run it maybe 2 to 3 minutes

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mbrauning1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Depends on your idle mixture...too rich will take longer of course, we run fairly rich, so we run it maybe 2 to 3 minutes</TD></TR></TABLE>


with the water pump on or off?

 

Its always on......That keeps the block and head temps consistent....

 

ok makes sense, thanks again

 

we change ours about every 2 -3 runs

 

We can race an entire weekend on the same oil with no bearing failures. There is much to be desired with a great tune across the entire RPM range. Take the time to clean up the entire RPM range and you will see a dramatic difference in oil contamination. And of course what Tony said too

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ParrisEngDyn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We can race an entire weekend on the same oil with no bearing failures. There is much to be desired with a great tune across the entire RPM range. Take the time to clean up the entire RPM range and you will see a dramatic difference in oil contamination. And of course what Tony said too </TD></TR></TABLE>
very valid point