Possible valve ticking after over rev???
Early tonight while I was skanging, I went to grab 3rd gear and instead of going into 3rd it slid over and went into 1st. In the process it over revved the engine and made a wonderful stuttering sound from under the hood...the kind of noise like the differential just locked up. Once I got the stubborn *** S1 back in gear, I could hear the ticking and noticed a little bit of hesitation when I tried to accelerate.
Anyways, I now am hearing what I believe is a valve ticking. It steadily grows in din as the rpm's grow. I am thinking I may have mushroomed it in the over rev, but was wanting some other opinions before I take off the valve cover. It's too late for me to look now, so I'll have to do it tomorrow.
I know I shouldn't be winding it out...
Anyways, I now am hearing what I believe is a valve ticking. It steadily grows in din as the rpm's grow. I am thinking I may have mushroomed it in the over rev, but was wanting some other opinions before I take off the valve cover. It's too late for me to look now, so I'll have to do it tomorrow.
I know I shouldn't be winding it out...
I'm not sure what "skanging" is, but you probably shouldn't do it anymore.
Sounds like you bent a valve. I would stop driving it before the valve head breaks off and you ruin a motor. You'll have to take the head off and see whats going on.
Sounds like you bent a valve. I would stop driving it before the valve head breaks off and you ruin a motor. You'll have to take the head off and see whats going on.
Skang(ing)-to get on it, then cruise once you hit the speed limit. Has other meanings too.
I probably shouldn't...maybe it's why I've lost my license twice now
.
Bent a valve? Wouldn't it make more than just a ticking noise if I bent one? This sucks...I don't have any down time what so ever for my car...I have to drive it to and from work. I may end up blowing the ****. If I took the valve cover off, would I be able to tell that the valve stem was bent?
That's funny...I'm offering you advice on your post and you are offering advice on mine...thought it was interesting.
I probably shouldn't...maybe it's why I've lost my license twice now
.Bent a valve? Wouldn't it make more than just a ticking noise if I bent one? This sucks...I don't have any down time what so ever for my car...I have to drive it to and from work. I may end up blowing the ****. If I took the valve cover off, would I be able to tell that the valve stem was bent?
That's funny...I'm offering you advice on your post and you are offering advice on mine...thought it was interesting.
It starts with the ticking...
Seriously don't drive it. It will break if driven long enough, and there's no way to tell how long that is. Taking the valve cover off won't tell you anything, the valve stem in the port is what is bent.
If you keep driving it, the bent valve will turn into a new motor when it breaks off and beats a hole in your piston, dents the cylinder walls, and lodges itself in the head. Don't make me post pics...
Seriously don't drive it. It will break if driven long enough, and there's no way to tell how long that is. Taking the valve cover off won't tell you anything, the valve stem in the port is what is bent.
If you keep driving it, the bent valve will turn into a new motor when it breaks off and beats a hole in your piston, dents the cylinder walls, and lodges itself in the head. Don't make me post pics...
First "Compression Test" they tell wonders, can pick up cheap guage from store 20-30 bucks. Can also try testing for Rod Knock Bearing by pulling one sparkplug wire at a time untill noise goes away. Can't really think of any other Knock / Ticking noises. But my Diagnosis is same as everones. You bent a valve. Compression test will point that out, And "leakdown test" will tell you which valves, if you care to know.
(yelling) FUUCCCKKKK!!! (Beats chest in fury)...I have access to a shop full of tools, so I can definitely get my mits on a gauge. I am going to say I seriously doubt it's a rod bearing since the noise is emanating from the head...I could be wrong though. How do I perform a compression test and leakdown test. I was shown in Auto-tech in high school, but I can't remember exactly.
Now that I am looking at having to pull my head to rebuild it...would it be possible for me to get away with putting in a new set of valves, or would I have to do the valve guides as well??? If I am going to pull the head, I may as well get a complete P&P done as well as getting it built to handle...well...more than 9k rpms. I have South Florida Performance in mind since they are relatively close...has anyone gone to them before? How much would I be looking at to do a a full build...valve guides, new aftermarket valves (super tech), aftermarket springs (skunk2), retainers (skunk2), P&P, and maybe a 3 angle valve job?
Would it be possible for the nut on top of the rocker arm to come loose enough to cause the valve lash to get all fucked up? Or is my explanation all fucked up?
Now that I am looking at having to pull my head to rebuild it...would it be possible for me to get away with putting in a new set of valves, or would I have to do the valve guides as well??? If I am going to pull the head, I may as well get a complete P&P done as well as getting it built to handle...well...more than 9k rpms. I have South Florida Performance in mind since they are relatively close...has anyone gone to them before? How much would I be looking at to do a a full build...valve guides, new aftermarket valves (super tech), aftermarket springs (skunk2), retainers (skunk2), P&P, and maybe a 3 angle valve job?
Would it be possible for the nut on top of the rocker arm to come loose enough to cause the valve lash to get all fucked up? Or is my explanation all fucked up?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drdisco69 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It starts with the ticking...
Seriously don't drive it. It will break if driven long enough, and there's no way to tell how long that is. Taking the valve cover off won't tell you anything, the valve stem in the port is what is bent.
If you keep driving it, the bent valve will turn into a new motor when it breaks off and beats a hole in your piston, dents the cylinder walls, and lodges itself in the head. Don't make me post pics...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Check this action out!!!
I hope this pic works...
See anything missing???

Oh wait there it is!!!
Yep...the nut on top of my lash adjuster (is that what it's called?) came off causing my wonderful tapping noise. This baffles me...the motor is in top notch condition, so having something like this happen is surprising. I made sure everything else was hand tight and then a little. Sadlly at the moment I don't have angled feeler gauges, so I went by feel comparing it to it's next door neighbor. Sounds dead on, but a proper lash adjustment is in the future.
Seriously don't drive it. It will break if driven long enough, and there's no way to tell how long that is. Taking the valve cover off won't tell you anything, the valve stem in the port is what is bent.
If you keep driving it, the bent valve will turn into a new motor when it breaks off and beats a hole in your piston, dents the cylinder walls, and lodges itself in the head. Don't make me post pics...
</TD></TR></TABLE>Check this action out!!!
I hope this pic works...
See anything missing???

Oh wait there it is!!!
Yep...the nut on top of my lash adjuster (is that what it's called?) came off causing my wonderful tapping noise. This baffles me...the motor is in top notch condition, so having something like this happen is surprising. I made sure everything else was hand tight and then a little. Sadlly at the moment I don't have angled feeler gauges, so I went by feel comparing it to it's next door neighbor. Sounds dead on, but a proper lash adjustment is in the future.
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Damn, first time I've seen that. I would consider yourself extremely lucky. But yeah, definately get in there with a feeler guage and do it right ASAP.
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