Ok, i got this 88 crx, the engine has never been touched (except replacement parts) i replaced the oil pan, cause i thought i was leaking and the threads were stripped. when i got the new oil pan, it seemed a little better, olny dripping a couple times a day. and then i noticed that a thin layer oil was all over the bottom of the oil pan. I cant see any leakage anywhere from above. Any idea's? Thanks dude's

 

also interested

 

Make sure you didn't overtighten the oil pan nuts/bolts. If the gasket looks like it's squishing out anywhere around the pan, you've ruined it and will need to replace the gasket and not torque the nuts/bolts down so much. Also...sometimes people forget to remove the metal ring from one of the studs near the tranny. This metal ring is embedded in the gasket and ALWAYS rips out and sticks to the stud when removing the gasket. Be sure to remove it and trash it...the new metal ring is embedded in the new gasket.

Oil pan gaskets tend to sweat oil a little. If it isn't too much, don't worry.

 

use gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket.

-Eric

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HamiltonRex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">use gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket.

-Eric</TD></TR></TABLE>

I actually DON'T recommend this. I did it after I overtightened my gasket the first time. I still over tightened the gasket and had to re-do it a second time, and it took me forever to pry off the pan with the gasket sealer on there. I really thought I bent the pan up, but I was very careful not to.

 

Awesome guys, thanks a bundle.

 

Also you might have to pound your oil pan out, if you tighten a bolt to much it will form a rivet in it and every time you put a new gasket on, that rivet will tear it.

 

In response to HamiltonRex's comment (i forgot to quote him )

I second his advice. If you are really careful and DONT overtighten the bolts and nuts, then u should have a leak free pan. I know its possible cuz ive done it before with my old SOHC. The damn thing didnt leak a drop and was dry 24/7.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I actually DON'T recommend this. I did it after I overtightened my gasket the first time. I still over tightened the gasket and had to re-do it a second time, and it took me forever to pry off the pan with the gasket sealer on there. I really thought I bent the pan up, but I was very careful not to.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What?

Its gasket sealer not JB weld. I use sensor safe gasketmaker/sealer on everything. And if i ever have to go back and pull it apart again, it just pulls off?

Did you have a 4yr old working on your car to have trouble removing it? Or did you just forget to loosen a bolt or two and had to shear the studs thinking it was all super strong gaseket sealer.

-Eric

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HamiltonRex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What?

Its gasket sealer not JB weld. I use sensor safe gasketmaker/sealer on everything. And if i ever have to go back and pull it apart again, it just pulls off?

Did you have a 4yr old working on your car to have trouble removing it? Or did you just forget to loosen a bolt or two and had to shear the studs thinking it was all super strong gaseket sealer.

-Eric</TD></TR></TABLE>

Maybe we're talking about different things. I used some Hondabond [RTV] on both sides of the gasket when putting it on. No sense in reverting to being a ********.

I've just learned from my experience...I don't need any gasket sealer/RTV when doing my pan gasket if I don't overtorque the bolts/nuts. That's all I'm saying.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HamiltonRex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What?

Its gasket sealer not JB weld. I use sensor safe gasketmaker/sealer on everything. And if i ever have to go back and pull it apart again, it just pulls off?

Did you have a 4yr old working on your car to have trouble removing it? Or did you just forget to loosen a bolt or two and had to shear the studs thinking it was all super strong gaseket sealer.

-Eric</TD></TR></TABLE>

RTV when applied right will not be easy to get off. I know cuz i use it on all my pans. It holds and seals great. Most of the time all you need is a rubber mallet and just tap the side of the pan a few times to loosen it up. Once you break the seal it not hard to get off. Maybe DAX Exaggerated alittle, but when its done right it will take alittle effort to remove.

 

I also swap trannys in 4 bangers with no hoist or lift.
So maybe thats why?