OK so now i go ahead and change the dizzy, wires, plugs again and all that, double check everything - reset the ECU and all that figuring that the code 9 i was getting for CYP would be fixed and go away but nope - still not right - gulping sputtering etc. So i proceed to double check the new rotor i just put in, and sure enough its pointed at #3 on the cap when the cam gear is at TDC (up at top aligned) instead of #1. so i laugh and say of course ill rip it apart on halloween night when i should be out raising hell and pimpin hoes.....so i proceed to jack it up, rip it all apart and sure enough the bottom oil pump gear is not lined up or even close for that matter. WHY i ask when supposedly Hmotorsonline check all the motors they sell. Anyways, i tear it apart more and lined it all up, put the belt back on, dizzy back on, doubled checked, jumped in fired it up AND...........................................WORS E THAN BEFORE!! NOW backfiring, coughing, all crappy and what not. So i laugh as i smash my finger on the cam gear, belts still tight. So then I proceed to take the Dist cap off and sure enough, rotor pointed at #3 WTF AGAIN!!!!! SO now what?? Do i have to take it apart again includint taking the cam gear off, turn it till the rotor till its at #1 like it should be, but can i because of the grove in the cam gear that locks in the cam??? then double check the bottom, line them all up and then try to refire it or what???!!!! I am TOTALLY almost lost and furious at this point......any help would be muchly abliged.....OH and just to make sure, what way is the cam gear and timing belt suppose to spin? counter clockwise or clockwise?? just want to make sure......PLEASE HELP ME ASAP AND I WILL BE FOREVER GRATEFUL!!!! thanks guys and gals - thanks


M

 

ok, so your saying that the cam/crank timing is good and that the rotor is pointing at #3 spark plug when #1 cyl. is at tdc?

 

yeah the marks ar eperfect and the cap is at #3. i am assuming that the piston is at one because the cam gear is at tdc saying "up" but the damn dizzy is wrong wtf....

m

 

Trying to understand whats going on here(im a little hungover)...The timing belt side of the engine is all correct right? Just the distributor is 180 degrees out right? And its throwing a CYP code...

Dumb question, but are you sure the plug wires are assigned to the right spot?
That **** always confuses me and I still have to look it up after working on Hondas for years...
Also ya know how the distributor only goes in one way due to the offest key? You can press out that rollpin and turn the keyway 180 degrees,but I dont know why it would have gotten reversed in the first place

I also dont know if this will fix your CYP code.You may need a new distributor or try to repair that one...
Good luck

PS-The engine rotates counter-clockwise when looking at the timing belt side...

 

i just got another distributor so i can kinda rule that out. i have done hondas for years and wires are ok i think - you know???? sohc d16 - timing belt looks good and i am going to go double check it right now....the pin shouldnt be 180 off its only one # off in the cap/dizzy not a full 180.....the weird part is it ran before just not right and now that the timing is in check, not at all right - back to work let me know what else you think or the order on the cap - thanks

m

 

Hmmm....Well since the distributor rotor can only go on one way...And the distributor can only go on one way to the camshaft, Then that tells me the cam timing is off from the crank, but you said its right so I dont know...

Are there any other Hondas around you can check the plug wires?

Its been my experience that when the cam timing is off,the engine may run and if it does it just doesnt "sound" right and no power...
The way you describe the loud misfiring/backfiring sounds like the plug wires are mixed up...
Im not trying to question you,but the plug wires are arranged like this right?

LOWER LEFT= CYL 1
UPPER LEFT= CYL 3
UPPER RIGHT= CYL 4 <---------I had to look that up...LOL
LOWER RIGHT= CYL 2

If those are right then its gotta be the camshaft thats off. I dont think it could be anything else since thats really all that controls the timing?
Also Put your oil dipstick in # 1 spark plug hole to verify that CYL 1 is @ TDC

 

ok got the wires right and now its running but like its off a little bit, like give it gas and its kinda going/bluh.....great description i know - kinda like when a plug wire is out of it but a little different.....like timing is off.......i loosened the dizzy and moved it a few times reseting it each time but still like that and i am still getting cyp code and map and tps codes....if i flip the map and tps no codes but car wont run wtf is up with that...i am going to trace hem all the way back to the ecu and make sure i wired them up correctly when i wired the engine in....in the mean time whats up now with the cyp code and the blubbering noise - what to do next? thanks for all the help and we will get it right today!!!!


thanks


m

 

Hmmm...The BLUH sound sounds like the cam timing is off. Thats how I would describe the sound of a engine w/ cam timing off a bit...They also seem to rev up very slowly with off cam timing.

I dont know what you re-wired so its gonna be hard for me to help you there...
I do know the TPS and MAP sensors have the same plug and to me the easiest way to distinguish them is by rhyming the color of the wires to the sensor...

Like this...T and P kinda sound like GREEN
and S kinda sounds like RED

So the plug with the green and red wires go to the TPS. Kinda dumb huh?
This is how it is for my setup,not sure if theyre all the same on all hondas...

What exactly is your setup? I mean Vehicle,Year,Engine year,What distributor, ECU, ETC.

 

yeah revving up slowly and missing - how do i only adjust the cam timing though??? i have 93 hatch but jdm d16a motor - harness was cut and then i wired it all up - 5 speed p08 ecu - i have the map and tps plugs right on there respective parts on the motor. then the throws a code....swap them car wont start and no codes.......... so i am going to double check the wiring....... everything was lined up good last night when i started it and what not so y would the cam be off time now???? "up" on the cam gear was perfect.......thanks

m

 

so did you re wire teh cut harness to work? or did you just plug your stock harness into the engine?

 

hmotors had cut the harness or whoever they get them from - then i wired it all up to plugs i had taken out of another hatch, then plugged in the plugs to each other....follow.....thanks


m

 

WTF!!!

The longer this thread goes, the more complicated it seems to get.

First thing, The harness that came on the JDM d16 is not the harness to use. There was no need to wire plugs on the JDM harness. You simply transfer you origional harness to the d16 and add the VTEC wires. A JDM harness is backwards for a US car.

Anyways, Some rotors can go on backwards. Why not set the cams and crank at TDC and install the distributor with the cap and rotor off. You can then see if you have been putting the rotor on right.


Modified by b18cx at 3:23 PM 10/31/2004

 

GOT IT ALL FIXED!!!! ITS A D16A finally working now.......


THANKS TO ALL WHO HELPED IN MY PROBLEMS.....I RESET THE ECU, ADJUSTED THE TIMUNG, REWIRED THE MAP AND TOOK OUT THE TPS, ADJUSTED THAT, AND ONE LAST RESET SHE SEEMS TO BE GOLDEN........

ONLY thing left is still the cyp sode.....major thing to worry about or no???? i adjusted the TPS by hand no meter which i will buy and double check....and the timing i will buy and double check too but just drove it and its beautiful and fast and idles smoothly and whatnot and quieter too - thanks agian to everyone and keep our fingers crossed.........let me know about the CYP code and what you all think about it or what to do or whatnot - 2nd dist doing it so dunno - thanks all

Milt

 

you know this all could ahve been avoided if you just used teh harness that was in your car....

 

i did!!! but hwne i sold the d15 out of it i let that harness go with the motor - i had the harness still in the car - thanks for the help


m