Del Sol Rotor Problems
hey every one new to the fourms, I just picked up a 93 Del Sol Si, and it needed new front rotors and brakes pads ok no big deal, got the calipers off fine got the brake pads chaged, now for the rotors used the impact Driver to get the screws out ok fine worked on one side, on the other side the Driver stripped both screws wat are things I can do to get these rotors off any help would be awsome thnaks
yeah the reversable drill bit might work, I dont think the chisel will work casue its so far stripped that its smooth edges all the way around but thanks for the help, i was also told a dremal could be used ot cut it out, any opinions on that?
Just drill the head of screw off, and once you take the rotors out you can unscrew them by hand. You don't have to put them back, they don't serve a purpose once you put the rim over them.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93LSTurboSol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah the reversable drill bit might work, I dont think the chisel will work casue its so far stripped that its smooth edges all the way around but thanks for the help, i was also told a dremal could be used ot cut it out, any opinions on that?</TD></TR></TABLE>
the chisel will work if you do it right...it's actually the easiest and fastest....but whatever works the best for you
the chisel will work if you do it right...it's actually the easiest and fastest....but whatever works the best for you
Did you not use WD40 before getting on the wrench? You could also drill a hole across the bolt then put a pin in it and twist it off. What did you end up doing?
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I had a friend come over and help out do it casue he had the ideas, first we took a nut and tried welding it to the striped screw that didnt work, tried chsieling it didnt work, could get my hands on a reversable drill bit it was sunday places were closed, so we ended up cutting the screw with a dremal took all of like 30 secs worked beautiful
All you have to do it get a drill bit the same size as the bolt stud.. and start drilling. The head of it will fall off and your all set.. When replacing them, Put rotor on then caliper, then evenly tighten the lug nuts to around 80 lbs. good luck
yeah that would have worked too, but in the end we didnt even put the screws back in, they havnt even made a differance I heard they were just there so the rotors didnt fall off while going down the assembly line
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93LSTurboSol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I heard they were just there so the rotors didnt fall off while going down the assembly line</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is true.
That is true.
Actually that is not true.
You would think that it wouldn't matter if they are in or not but you can get a nasty rattle if you don't replace them, or if they come loose.
I speak from experience.
You would think that it wouldn't matter if they are in or not but you can get a nasty rattle if you don't replace them, or if they come loose.
I speak from experience.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rotten »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually that is not true.
You would think that it wouldn't matter if they are in or not but you can get a nasty rattle if you don't replace them, or if they come loose.
I speak from experience.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Your rotor mates up against the hub. It is then pressed against the hub by the wheel and lug nuts torqued to 80 lb/ft. If your rotor is rattling or moving around, you have much larger problems than that little screw, becuase your wheel is about to fall off.
I was a driveline engineer at a Teir 1 supplier to 75% of the industry, and was part of a project to design a new assembly line for a future product. One of the issues (among plenty of other cost saving assembly issues) was trying to assemble the front end without having to use those screws, because they weren't necesary to the vehicles operation, and could save money on materials and a machine to put them on with.
The most likely cause of brake rattle is not replacing the spring retaining clips with the pads. I'll admit on other cars, I've put the screw back in to make it easier to change pads and tires at the track, but not on the Honda; the screw heads are always stripping and are just a general PITA.
You would think that it wouldn't matter if they are in or not but you can get a nasty rattle if you don't replace them, or if they come loose.
I speak from experience.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Your rotor mates up against the hub. It is then pressed against the hub by the wheel and lug nuts torqued to 80 lb/ft. If your rotor is rattling or moving around, you have much larger problems than that little screw, becuase your wheel is about to fall off.
I was a driveline engineer at a Teir 1 supplier to 75% of the industry, and was part of a project to design a new assembly line for a future product. One of the issues (among plenty of other cost saving assembly issues) was trying to assemble the front end without having to use those screws, because they weren't necesary to the vehicles operation, and could save money on materials and a machine to put them on with.
The most likely cause of brake rattle is not replacing the spring retaining clips with the pads. I'll admit on other cars, I've put the screw back in to make it easier to change pads and tires at the track, but not on the Honda; the screw heads are always stripping and are just a general PITA.
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