triangle stress (welding)
say you were making a triangle out of flat metal bars (1/8th inch thick, 1.5 inchs wide) would you rather weld the corners together butt to butt or weld the bars overlapping each other?
which triangle would be stronger or is a moot point?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by McDade »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
say you were making a triangle out of flat metal bars (1/8th inch thick, 1.5 inchs wide) would you rather weld the corners together butt to butt or weld the bars overlapping each other?
which triangle would be stronger or is a moot point?
</TD></TR></TABLE>i would say overlapping and boxing the weld would be stronger because you don't have to worry about weakness from the HAZ as much. the draw back would be it would be thicker and heavier. this question is best answered depending on what the triangles will be used for.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by McDade »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mdm (mcdade domestic market) bling fender braces</TD></TR></TABLE>
if it's for fender braces, it probably doesn't matter, i would go butt to butt for weight savings. import fenders are usually light and is not that heavy of a load.
if it's for fender braces, it probably doesn't matter, i would go butt to butt for weight savings. import fenders are usually light and is not that heavy of a load.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bailhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm pretty sure he means structural braces on the front, under the fender. Supposed to stiffen up the front rails a little. </TD></TR></TABLE>
sorry, wasn't clear on the application. thanks for the correction
sorry, wasn't clear on the application. thanks for the correction
you want to know what the point is?
i don't want to spend $200 to see if these things work of not.
i'd rather spend $10 in metal and a few hours of my time.
i don't want to spend $200 to see if these things work of not.
i'd rather spend $10 in metal and a few hours of my time.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Whats the point?
Really, someone explain this to me... and not that "its stiffer y0!"</TD></TR></TABLE>
supposed to tighten up the front end, something to the affect of a strut bar, but some people say its more noticeable
Really, someone explain this to me... and not that "its stiffer y0!"</TD></TR></TABLE>
supposed to tighten up the front end, something to the affect of a strut bar, but some people say its more noticeable
it looks like it just prevents a small amount of flex that would come during a high-g turn. if you are going to do that, you would also want to make sure that the subframe is all connected as well or else it wouldn't make much sense to try to prevent body flex on the top half of your car, the less important part, and not be counter-acting it on the bottom half where it would make more of an effect.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mxnut »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...cardboard will be the strongest if you use lap welds.</TD></TR></TABLE>
GAHAHAHAHAHA!!!
talk about modifying crumple zone properties...
Modified by Sobe_Death at 2:53 PM 10/31/2004
GAHAHAHAHAHA!!!
talk about modifying crumple zone properties...
Modified by Sobe_Death at 2:53 PM 10/31/2004
to make it a little stronger you should take the angled part that goes from lower R to upper L in your cardboard mock up and make it a little longer and stretch more froward. I plan on just welding in these braces when I do my new fender/paint job this winter. I see no reson to make them bolt in on my $1000 dollar hatch. should cost about $10 as you said
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Oct 27, 2005 06:26 AM




