has anyone replaced their speaker wires?
I am wanting to replace the speaker wires so i can run thicker wires from my amp through the new speakers to the doors. has anyone ran new wires to their speakers? any info would be helpful
I have Alpine type R components running off of an alpine amp. i allready got speaker wire...i just picked up the roll at walmart that they had. they seem like good wires to me.
Modified by imadigitalgod at 8:49 PM 10/28/2004
I have Alpine type R components running off of an alpine amp. i allready got speaker wire...i just picked up the roll at walmart that they had. they seem like good wires to me.
Modified by imadigitalgod at 8:49 PM 10/28/2004
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OverCorrupt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why rewire stock speakers?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Who said anything about stock speakers?
A metal coat hanger will help with pullung wires through the rubber boot in the door jamb.
Who said anything about stock speakers?
A metal coat hanger will help with pullung wires through the rubber boot in the door jamb.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OverCorrupt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why rewire stock speakers?</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you are going to rewire them, don't get raped for some Phoenix Gold wires that will have the same performance as some regular audio wire from anywhere else. unless you will be showing off your speaker wires for some weird reason...
if you are going to rewire them, don't get raped for some Phoenix Gold wires that will have the same performance as some regular audio wire from anywhere else. unless you will be showing off your speaker wires for some weird reason...
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OverCorrupt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it seems like there is no indication that he has any aftermarket otherwise he might have put that in to help get more specific help.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by imadigitalgod »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so i can run thicker wires from my amp through the new speakers to the doors. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds like new speakers to me. there is a grammar problem with his sentence, though.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by imadigitalgod »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so i can run thicker wires from my amp through the new speakers to the doors. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds like new speakers to me. there is a grammar problem with his sentence, though.
With those speakers, you are wasting your time replacing the speaker wires. Trust me 4 year Car stereo installation tech. I only use Bigger/high quality speaker wire on Subwoofers running more than 500 watts. Your componants can't take more than 150rms. I nkow this becuase I have them! Good choice BTW, all my stuff is Alpine.
But, yeah, don't waste your time/money.
But, yeah, don't waste your time/money.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nyceguy17 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With those speakers, you are wasting your time replacing the speaker wires. Trust me 4 year Car stereo installation tech. I only use Bigger/high quality speaker wire on Subwoofers running more than 500 watts. Your componants can't take more than 150rms. I nkow this becuase I have them! Good choice BTW, all my stuff is Alpine.
But, yeah, don't waste your time/money.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I know, or at least hope, that this is not what you are suggesting...but from that it looks like you are suggesting the 20-22 AWG O.E. wire going to the door speakers would be fine for up to 500 watts.
For the original poster, some people are saying a coathanger...this will work if you do not have molex plugs, but if you do you are in for quite a chore.
Molex Plug - you will have to drill a hole through both sides of the plug

Kind of a step by step of how I did it if you have the plugs.
http://speed-society.com/georg...1.jpg
through
http://speed-society.com/georg...9.jpg
But, yeah, don't waste your time/money.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I know, or at least hope, that this is not what you are suggesting...but from that it looks like you are suggesting the 20-22 AWG O.E. wire going to the door speakers would be fine for up to 500 watts.
For the original poster, some people are saying a coathanger...this will work if you do not have molex plugs, but if you do you are in for quite a chore.
Molex Plug - you will have to drill a hole through both sides of the plug

Kind of a step by step of how I did it if you have the plugs.
http://speed-society.com/georg...1.jpg
through
http://speed-society.com/georg...9.jpg
My wireup was nice and easy, kinda....I had to run all the power and signal cables from the head and battery to my amps. Then I had to run wires from my trunk to all the other speakers. Now I am going to completely rewire my system because the guy at tweeter was talking out his *** saying my components could handle the power put out by my amp, and that wasn't the case at all. Basically run my speakers off the head unit, and then just have an amped sub in the back.
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