Great. today I was checking my cap and rotor to see how fouled out they were, so I cleaned them up. Figured I'd see how the plugs are looking as well. well 3 of em looked fine the fourth one looks like this.

Wondering where the rest of it is? oh its still stuck in the head!!! i already tryed to get it out jamming and twisting a screwdriver in there, just broke off some pieces of metal. Looks I'm taking off the head. On these d-series heads, do i have to mess with the cam at all when i pull the head, it looks like i don't, and that would be great.
This sucks


Modified by rjay8604 at 12:06 AM 10/28/2004

 

...use some anti seize next time

No don't have to mess with the cam

 

well, i didn't put those plugs in, i bought it with them in. But yes i'll def. use anti-seize next time.
Thanks for the info.

 

yeh the head comes off pretty straight forward...get a manual on the car it will help in the long run....cause u need to know how to turn the crank pulley blah blah i dont feel like explaining tonight maybe do a search on head swaps to see what to do

 

Well, i've diassembled my b-series completely, so i shouldn't have a problem with the d-seires, its just doin all of it while its in the car, thats the part thats gonna suck, mainly the exh. mani. being in that tight space.

 

Wait, i must be tripping. U say the fourth one IS or LOOKED like the one in the pic? And if the one in the pic IS the fourth one, then how u get a pic of it if its still stuck in the head? Also, that plug looks way weird to me. The middle section looks really long.

 

Thats the catch, half of the thread IS stuck in the head, normally there would be some thread covering the electrode, so it would look shorter, but it broke in the middle of the thread. and the rest of the thread is stuck in the head.

 

Looks like you have a couple of fun filled hours ahead of you!

 

That happened to someone at my work on a Celica. They used some kind of thing that looked like a drill bit to stab it and unscrew it.

 

makes me want to go take my spark plugs out right now and put another round of anti-sieze.

good luck

 

instead of "jamming and twisting a screwdriver in there" why dont you get a magnet or a long stick with slightly chewed bubble gum. but I can understand how jamming a screwdriver *in there* could possibly help.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Brownjd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">makes me want to go take my spark plugs out right now and put another round of anti-sieze.

good luck </TD></TR></TABLE>
same here

 

you can heli coil it and rethred a new plug in there....with anti sieze

 

omg,

i'd take the head off so you can make sure nothing REALLY shitty happens.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

omg,

i'd take the head off so you can make sure nothing REALLY shitty happens.</TD></TR></TABLE> I agree, i'm gonna pull the head off and use a magnet and makes sure to get any little metal shards. Then i'll try any easy out from the bottom. I'm thinking i might document the process and post it up on here.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rjay8604 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I agree, i'm gonna pull the head off and use a magnet and makes sure to get any little metal shards. Then i'll try any easy out from the bottom. I'm thinking i might document the process and post it up on here.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you can use a good punch and a small hammer and very lightly tap and turn it out, it wont be under and tension so it will be fairly easy.. hopefull the threads are ok?

 

Is that an NGK plug? btw..

[I have never seen that happen before and I am old and a mechanic..]

A screwdriver was a decent attempt
because it is a just a hollow cylinder left in there..it is probably stuck though..

I would have to try to at least try to cheat and soak it in penetrating oil
and use something sort of extractor like keystock or a plumbing seat extraction tool wedged in for an attempt at extraction before I would pull the head....

If you were able to unscrew the broken off piece,you could vacuum the cylinder with a shop vac to remove any shavings..

 

Broken screw extractor What do you have to lose? I've seen that happen a couple times with a brand new honda plug, causes much excitement for a while in the shop.

 

what brand is that plug?

so, i make sure i never buy one

 

Google found this:
http://www.jag-lovers.org/xj-s....html

Always use anti-seize compound on aluminum heads..

 

Meh, I wouldn't blame it on the plug, there's a lot of rust on the threads (that are left). That could happen to anything. I think a better question to ask would be "how can I keep this **** from happening to me?" The answer of course is anti-seize, as stated above.

 

Just so everyone knows, i bought this car in this condition, this is the first time i've messed with the plugs. They are NGK's, definitely don't blame them. They do look like they've been in there too long though. the other part of the electrode looked unrecognizable. I think i'll just pull the head, it might be kind of fun.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hatchback_al &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can heli coil it and rethred a new plug in there....with anti sieze </TD></TR></TABLE>

Everyone seems to think situations like this happen because anti-seize was not used. The truth is that there are two other things that are MUCH more important than antisieze:

(1) ALWAYS seat the plug by hand. In an engine where the spark plug is deep in there (like a Honda engine), using an extension and socket is fine. But no ratchets! Nothing that can multiply torque. The reason for doing this is that spark plugs often seize because they are cross-threaded. If you use hand force alone to seat the plug, you will never be able to cross thread it. But if you use an actual wrench, you can easily screw it in there cross-threaded.

(2) ALWAYS tighten to the proper torque. This is an interesting one. Many people assume that spark plugs should be in there really tight. The problem here, of course, is that this can strip the threads. But you must also remember that if you tighten something by a given number of foot pounds, It will always take more than that amount of torque to loosen it again. Because of this, the torque required to loosen an over-tightened plug can easily break it. The proper torque for spark plugs is usually around 15ft-lb - much less than you might think.

 

listen to matt he knows his **** one of the smartest guys i know on any board right there....i agree always torque to proper specs...over torqued bolts are most of the ones that strip afterwards....and always use proper tools

 

UPDATE: Well good news, pulling the head, was, well pretty fun, d-series makes it so easy. So here's the stages. Overall took me about 2 hours. The machine shop said they should have it by monday.
little stuff disconnected.
Manifolds unbolted and head ready for pulling.
I win bitch!
This is to you spark plug.
thanks for looking.