rear quarter panel body work, help?
im thinking about trading my '90 hatch for a '92, but theres only one thing holding me back, this...

and this...

i dont know really anything about body work, i would want to fix this on my own if its easy enough...how would i fix something like this and whats the level of difficulty to get it done right?
and this...
i dont know really anything about body work, i would want to fix this on my own if its easy enough...how would i fix something like this and whats the level of difficulty to get it done right?
To get it done right, you'll need to cut a piece of a similar chassis and weld it on, then sand it down and paint.
Another alternative might be bondo, sand it, then paint.
Another alternative might be bondo, sand it, then paint.
You can tack weld smaller pieces of metal to simulate the rough surface contours and then bondo over top of it to create the final edges and contours. That's the easiest for the DIY-er and, if done with some patience, it comes out fine
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by handa »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Another alternative might be bondo, sand it, then paint.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Dont do that. Bondo is porous and will act like a sponge put on top of already rusting metal. Itll get wet and make your ride rust even faster.
Get it done right by replacing the metal that used to be there.
Mike!
Dont do that. Bondo is porous and will act like a sponge put on top of already rusting metal. Itll get wet and make your ride rust even faster.
Get it done right by replacing the metal that used to be there.
Mike!
Alright... first grind it down with a grinder, see how far the rust goes...
Because honda body work is like working with tissuepaper... chances are you're going to have to find a junk car and cut a piece out, weld with a lil bondo... work the whole panel.. then prime and paint. (bad side)
on the better side... i'd say just grind the **** out of it to where there is no more rust... bondo it up... prime and paint.
sounds easier then it is... but good luck.
Because honda body work is like working with tissuepaper... chances are you're going to have to find a junk car and cut a piece out, weld with a lil bondo... work the whole panel.. then prime and paint. (bad side)
on the better side... i'd say just grind the **** out of it to where there is no more rust... bondo it up... prime and paint.
sounds easier then it is... but good luck.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18Tahtaras »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">on the better side... i'd say just grind the **** out of it to where there is no more rust... bondo it up... prime and paint. </TD></TR></TABLE>
One last thing to add to this before putting filler. Is to use a metal conditioner to kill all leftover rust. Be sure to wear gloves when doing this because this stuff will strip a layer of skin off of you if your not paying attention (you wont feel it while its doin it to you either). It also burns concrete so do this somewhere that you wont mind some staining on the ground.
Then procede to use filler and prime.
Mike!
One last thing to add to this before putting filler. Is to use a metal conditioner to kill all leftover rust. Be sure to wear gloves when doing this because this stuff will strip a layer of skin off of you if your not paying attention (you wont feel it while its doin it to you either). It also burns concrete so do this somewhere that you wont mind some staining on the ground.
Then procede to use filler and prime.
Mike!
If you are planning to trade the car then just go with the filler idea.
If you were planning on keeping it then you would want it right and thats the tach welding path.
Thats cancer man and it will come back unless if you cut it completely off.
If you were planning on keeping it then you would want it right and thats the tach welding path.
Thats cancer man and it will come back unless if you cut it completely off.
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May 5, 2014 06:43 PM





