Anyone got any tips for me? Or online links that guide you through the process?

I know it's gonna be messy, but pretty straightforward in the helms...

Who has done it and lived to tell about it?

It's my first time on a B motor. I want to be gentle.

 

take the lower ball joints off, NOT the arms.

 

Word has it, there are some tricks to that process...I could tell you, but then would have to kill you. Why dont you just bring the car to us, Ken, and leave it for a week or two....

 

I'll tell you what Dave...

2 week trade. I'll leave the R, you hand over the torquelustmobile...

 

Do share! I'll be droping mine for the first time................ Saturday.

 

helms is all you need and its cake. take your time and remember that if you forget to drain your tranny and you pull your axle....your gonna get some fluid on da noggin. as jack stated....pop the lower fork ball joint and swing the hub assembly out of the way toward the firewall and keep track of your parts especially things like the allignment pins for tranny to block attachment, shift rod pin etc.

 

You too, sackdeezknutz? lol

Final drive install time, huh?

David, I think I got a package yesterday as you said! I'll confirm today when I get home! Woohoo! *crosses fingers that it's not something from aunt bertha*

 

Yaya JDM FD, sp00n flywheel, and a new sychro.

Is it gonna be messy getting the grease out of the CV joint?

PS- j00r aunt bertha is hott

 

It is not from Aunt Bertha...unless that is your new pet name for me...we won't go there. I still have one ATS Unit in stock that needs a home by Christmas or we have to put it down!

 

toys for tots... i'll take it mr. santa!!!!

 

the helms (IIRC anyways) only tells you to remove the top bolt from the starter.. remove both

take the axles out of the tranny and move them out of the way, don't completely drop em.

 

I will leave the keys in it tonight for you....

 

mmmm new quote for da sig. and a new post for my post whoring of the day.

 

i usually take the passenger axle completely out for viewing purposes. its more in the way then its worth. drivers and intermediate can be pulled out of the way

 

We just zip tie it out of the way. Us rednecks are lazy

 

nah...i think i got ya beat up here in yankeeville. i've used junk spark plug wires many many many times to tie stuff up. zip ties are one of them there genius inventions compared to some spaaaark plug weirs

 

This is what I do...

Disconnect the negative bat terminal

While the fluid is draining I remove the starter, tranny side engine ground and disconnect the clutch cylinder from the tranny. Don't break the line open just remove the two bolts on the tranny and the two bolts for the brace. Place the cylinder where the stock air box sits. I also disconnect the speed sensor at this time too.

For each side of the car remove the shock lower arm fork and loosen the lower ball joint nut until the nut is only on by two threads. Wack the lower arm until the ball joint loosens. For the passnger side you can either tie the shaft to the body or let it dangle. The intermediate shaft also needs to be removed but remeber to seperate the driver side shaft from the intermediate shaft before all of the intermediate shaft bolts are removed from the block,("3" 14mm bolts). Remove all of the lower bolts and the flywheel cover at this time. Do NOT disconnect the upper 17mm bolt that connects the rear mount to the engine. Remove the (2) 19mm bolts for the rear mount and the 17mm bolt near it that connects the tranny to the bell housing. You should have three bolts on the passenger mount plus the two top engine to tranny bolts plus the three bolts for the front mount.

you should have a floor jack under atleast the tranny by now. If you are going to support the engine with a jackstand or another floor jack remember to place a piece of wood on the support so the pressure from the engine to dispersed wider. Once eveything is supported remove the bolts for the front mount followed by the bolts/nuts for the passenger mount plus the mount itself. Last but not least remove the two 17mm upper bolts and lower the tranny. You might have to do a little prying but check for missed bolts before going crazy with a pry bar.

I probably left some stuff out but I think you got the message! Take your time! Make sure the rear wheels are blocked and the E-brake is engaged! You better be using jackstands if you aren't using a two post lift!

Did two trannies in 6 hours last saturday and that includes lunch, BSing with my friends kid and fumbling around with my busted synchro!!

 

I used a hammer to loosen the lower ball joint...worked nice and easy on my car, my friend's Civic it didnt work

What I did was take the nut off the lower ball joint then smacked the lower control arm with a hammer a few times and it just dropped...very nice
And NO you arent going to bend the control arm or anything.

 

"With a long enough lever, you could move the earth..."

 

So which ball joint have to be removed? THe lower arm and the tie rod? Leave the upper there?

Also, how hard is it to replace the ball joint boots cause i tore 2

What ends of the axels need to be taken out? Do both boots on each side have to be removed?


[Modified by sackdz, 2:35 PM 12/23/2001]

 

just remove both axles w/32mm socket and 2 prybars, you don't have to mess with the cv boots, unless you are replacing them. but if there not crack or toren you should be just fine....

Moving both axles just makes it easier to work in the area..

 

THanks, I got the tranny out

 

Merry Xmas:

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/b...ch/clutch.html

 

Does anyone have a good pic of what the inside of the tranny looks like when you open it up? I have never seen it in person, and I'm trying to visualize what the main shaft and counter shaft look like, and how they work.

Thnaks,

-Floyd

 

hey ken, you have my #. if you get hung up, gimme a call