hey guys, how much is it costing to change front and rear brakes of an EG HB to an GSR setup? of course, doing the work your self. also for you smart butts, i would call a salvage yard but i work 7a-7p, everything is closed and i don't want to wait until friday
on my day off
TIA

 

depends on where you get the setup, from a private party or from a salvage yard. as far as salvage yard prices go, i'm not too sure, but i've seen gsr setups go for 300-500. i think rear's alone go for 150-200. if you wanna go with the itr i think it's roughly 1000-1300.

 

I have done the rear disc swap on my 94 civic cx. If you buy your parts used you will have to replace the rotors, pads, pad retaining springs & guides, and clean and re-lube the caliper guide pins (just letting you know since it may seem the only thing you have to buy is the swap). I bought mine from here

IMPORT AUTO SALVAGE ANDALE GALLERY

They got the parts here in a week (shipping is super cheap), and after all the above servicing, worked great. The best part is that the rear disc swap comes with the integra 4040 (disc brake) proportioning valve (difficult to install since you can't switch the mounting brackets with the civic one). Plus, import auto salvage has the best customer service ever. If you have any problems just e-mail them

Costs:
Rear disc swap---------------$270 shipped from http://www.importautosalvage.com (with 4040 valve)
Front disc swap---------------$75 + shipping from http://www.hmotorsonline.com (as advertised)
New Brembo Rotors----------$20-$30 each at http://www.nopi.com (oem replacements)
New Axiss Ultimate Pads-----$20-$30 a pair at http://www.nopi.com
New caliper hardware--------$20 at autozone
Disc Brake Lube--------------$1 per packet at autozone (2 needed)
Brake Fluid--------------------$5 at autozone (get big bottle)
10mm Flare nut wrench------$3 at pep boys (a must for brake line nuts)
10 ft small clear tube---------$2 at home depot (cut into 4 pieces for bleeding brakes)
Brake Cleaner-----------------$2 at autozone (cleans off new rotors)

Options:
Engine paint -------------$5 at autozone (paint calipers after clean up)
wire cup brush-----------$5 at lowes (clean up rust on hubs and calipers)

Notes:
1. If your adding Integra front brakes, you will need the 1991 civic ex 4 door's brake master cylinder (15/16"), and it's a bolt on for 92-95 Civics(this is the only civic with integra calipers). If your car is 96-00 I don't know what MC will bolt on.
2. If your adding Civic EX front brakes, you will need the 93-95 civic EX 2 door's brake master cylinder (7/8"), and it's a bolt on for 92-95 civics (Civic EX calipers have a smaller piston than Integras). If your car is 96-00 civic, use the 99-00 Si MC.
3. For any 92-95 civic getting a rear disc swap, you will need the NON-ABS 40/40 proportioning valve from: 92-95 rear disc civic, 93+ rear disc del sol, or 90+ integra. If your car is 96-00 civic, you can use the prop valve from an 99-00 Si, or 96-00 hatch back (their all the same part number).
4. If you have a 96-00 civic, you must retain your stock rear LCAs & rear shocks because they are different.
5. Depending on what pads you use, follow the manufacturers break-in process.
6. You must bleed your brakes to remove all the air from your brake lines. Use the proper sequence in your helms manual because some cars are different than others. Do not follow the old "farthest to closest" method, because Honda brakes arn't setup that way.
7. For 92-95 civics, you can get the 40/40 proportioning valve from any "NON-ABS, Rear Disc 92-95 civic/93-97 del sol/90+ integra". For 96-00 civics, you can get the 40/40 proportioning valve from any 96-99 atchback, or 99-00 Si.

Front Sway-Bar: requires you to separate the shift linkage. One unbolts from the transmission, and one unbolts underneath the shifter. Parts required for this addition are the LCA's w/ sway-bar hole (any civic, sol or teg w/ front sway), matching end-links, sway-bar mounting brackets, bushings, and nuts & bolts. I purchased the whole kit from Import Auto Salvage too for $99 + shipping.

Integra E-brake Cables: For 92-95 Civics, it can be tricky to mount the drivers side e-brake cables from the integra. I had to purchase a $2 body bolt (looks like a black bee hive with a washer) from lowes to mount one of the brackets under the car into an existing chassis drain hole. It's easiest (bolt-on) to get the e-brake cables from an ABS version of your chassis (2dr, 3dr, 4dr), but that isn't always an option. I don't know which cables to use for 96-00 civics (sorry).

Front Ball Joints: First make sure your new knuckles have good ball-joints before you install them (if they don't, replace them). Now, since your new front knuckles will be replacing the lower ball-joints, you don't have to be particularly careful separating them. The upper ball-joints & tie rod ball-joints, however, will be reused, so make sure whatever tool you use doesn't damage them. Pickle forks okay, but they tear the boot (cheap to replace boots though)... A Ball joint separator works best though. It seems, however, the last 3 times I rented checkers front end kit, the ball joint tool was missing the cup that sits on the ball-joints stud. This led to the destruction of two of my ball joint studs making it impossible to get the suspension back together. Also be extra careful not to damage the castle nuts with the separator either. This will happen if the separator is resting on the nut instead of the stud (the nut should be screwed on far enough to keep the separator from sliding off the stud, but should not receive direct pressure). For an awesome tip to separate the lower balljoint super easily, click here!

Sorry to be long winded, but I've had bad experiences with ball-joints

Rear LCA Bolts: I almost forgot... If you are removing the rear lower arms use a ton of pb blaster (available at wall-mart) on the lower shock mounting bolts, and let it soak as long as possible (some guys wait over night). When I went to remove the bolt that connects the shock to the LCA, it just snapped the head right off (the bolts rust to the inside of the bushings). This meant that I had to buy a new shock or find someone to cut the old arm off the shock (I tried 3 different places and no one would help). I opted for a set of koni yellows and all new bolts instead. If all the bolts come out fine, order some replacements for the more rusty ones from http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com and add a little anti-seize goo to the non threaded parts.

Any questions just IM me.

Modified by 94eg! at 2:47 PM 2/19/2005


Modified by 94eg! at 3:10 PM 2/28/2005

 

^^Props to 94eg! (Get my lame pun?)

I paid 400 for the entire front and rear swap including prop valve, MC, and brake booster as well as front lca's. Classifieds is your friend.

 

For future reference.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1030365

 

94eg! posted some great information - everything I can think of is already there.

Keep in mind that you don't need brakes specifically from a "GSR."

All '94-01 Integras, except for the Type-R, used the same calipers and rotors. They are all the same for RS, LS, SE, GS, and GSR models. I believe master cylinders and proportioning valves do differ for the RS model, however, since the RS did not have ABS while the others did.

 

bump good info.

 

good info

 

bump again for a save.

 

so if i use del sol S front brakes, and gsr rears, i will be at 9.5" all around, sweet.

do i need to modify any brake lines or anything when putting in a 4040 valve? does it matter that i will be non-abs?

 

Here's my setup:
DA rear trailing arms (complete) with new pads, turned rotors, stainless lines, cables, 4030 prop valve from a DA teg: $200
DC front knuckles complete (rotors turned, pads were meaty, no cracks or glazing): $80
91 EX 15/16 MC (new/rebuilt): $65 (with exchange)

Total: $385

 

Yes your brakes will be the same all around (within .1" diameter).
No you don't have to modify any lines to fit the 40/40 valve (integra one is just a really tight fit).
No it doesn't matter if your non ABS. Just make sure you get a NON-ABS proportioning valve.

***You should keep the questions in your original thread***


Modified by 94eg! at 12:07 PM 1/20/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by llxzxll &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">depends on where you get the setup, from a private party or from a salvage yard. as far as salvage yard prices go, i'm not too sure, but i've seen gsr setups go for 300-500. i think rear's alone go for 150-200. if you wanna go with the itr i think it's roughly 1000-1300.</TD></TR></TABLE>

but remember the itr is 5 lug, which means new shoes too. but a pretty tight conversion.

 

nice info i will be using this later

 

Just subscibing for future reference

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wilky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just subscibing for future reference </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

bump because i need info...

 

I've collected most of my parts from this list; so far I have: integra trailing arms and lines, cables from a 2dr. abs sedan, 40/40 valve. This is all for a rear swap on a 93 hatch. What would happen if I was to only leave out the master cylinder?

 

why not?

 

damn... 94eg, that about sums it up. I hope you reply to my questions like that when i have one...

 

Paid 250 back in the day for GSR front and rear setup. With new rotors. Just do some research.

 

I just finished my swap on an 92 Civic CX and found my OEM 13.5 steelies (which I love) didn't fit over the larger front caliper but did on the rear. 14.5's rub on the front caliper also, unless you use a 1/8th spacer or grind the side of the caliper. I decided to use Cardone remanned Nissin calipers. My master cylinder, booster and prop came from a 94 RS and did not have to bend any engine bay brake line. If you use Russell/Edelbrock steel braided brake lines they get really taunt then you turn the wheels all the way left or right plus they cant mount on the knuckle. The mount on the RS prop matched up to the EG's bolts also. If you need split pins, Honda and Acura generally give them out for free.

 

I paid 90 bucks for the rear setup including the trailing arms off a integra. 25 for the 40/40 proportioning valve. Another 20 for the MC and booster. 100 for the front knuckles and brakes off a integra

So $235 for everything out of the junkyard. Since I did so well I replace the rotors with brembo blanks and ebc pads.