OK, this story is not about a Honda motor, but let it be a lesson to all of you who track your cars ... put in a pressure gauge and check it in hard, long corners at high RPM. I had no idea I was losing oil pressure in left hand corners, and thus killing bearings, until it was to late -- spun #6 rod bearing (1989 BMW 325is).

When I took the motor apart it was *actually* making good power, running fine, and not making any bad noises. The only indication was a *slightly* decreased oil pressure and some over-heating at idle. I was really surprised at how much damage there was!

Some bottom end work and a baffled oil pan are going in before my next day on track. If that doesn't work, it's time for an Accusump. Maybe everyone already knows this ... but I didn't

All of the rod bearings, showing progressive wear to the spun #6. Note missing tabs on #6 bearings. http://www.nogumracing.com/members/m...rings1-6_b.jpg

Crank at good #5 rod. http://www.nogumracing.com/members/m...crank_rod5.jpg

Crank at spun #6 rod. http://www.nogumracing.com/members/m...crank_rod6.jpg

Rod cap at good #5 rod: http://www.nogumracing.com/members/m..._rodcap5_a.jpg

Rod cap at spun #6 rod: http://www.nogumracing.com/members/m..._rodcap6_a.jpg

Bottom of rod caps #5 and #6 showing no discoloration (which would indicate overheating): http://www.nogumracing.com/members/m...5-6_bottom.jpg

Other pics if you're interested:

Front half of crank and closeups of #1, #2, and, showing good rod and main bearings: http://www.nogumracing.com/members/m...2_crank1-3.jpg http://www.nogumracing.com/members/m...112_crank1.jpg http://www.nogumracing.com/members/m...112_crank2.jpg

Closeups of rod bearings 1-6: http://www.nogumracing.com/members/m...odbearing1.jpg http://www.nogumracing.com/members/m...odbearing2.jpg http://www.nogumracing.com/members/m...odbearing3.jpg http://www.nogumracing.com/members/m...odbearing4.jpg http://www.nogumracing.com/members/m...odbearing5.jpg http://www.nogumracing.com/members/m...odbearing6.jpg

 

E30's are infamous for spinning rod bearings. Especially E30 M3's in long right hand corners. I have a baffled pan in mine, and even still, I make sure to overfill by 1/2 quart.

#3 bearing is the one to go bye-bye first on the S14 motor (E30 M3).

Warren

 

In the case of the Pork-chop, they have a tendency to spin #2 bearing in long left hand sweepers. From what I have gathered, there are three ways "people" say to fix this (might be worth reading). 1st suggestion, get an accusump, 2nd get a baffled oil pan and extend the oil pickup, 3rd perf drill and knife edge the crank.

So what I was told, the accusump will not do me any good after start up and it only really helps to top end - as I was told be Huntley Racing I think, that is essential for a Mustang but does nothing for the porchey. So I asked about the baffled oil pan and they say, "that does nothing for the *real* issue which is that the way the crank is designed, the faster it spins, the more it works against oiling." So they suggest perf-drilling the crank (creates a vaccuum to pull vs. repel oil??) and knife edging the crank, the latter to reduce windage and frothing which is a major cause for the oil pickup at high g-load turns to oil with froth opposed to oil. So I call Powerhaus and they say where that might be true, the real problem is that hte pickup sits too high in the first place and that a baffle sitting length-wise prevents a degree of slosh and with the extended tube you pick up clean (unfrothed) oil anyway.

Basically what I got from calling two other race teams was that baffling the pan is the best insurance bang for your buck. The perf-drilled and knife edged crank also got high votes but was stated at 950.00 not incl. cost/time of pulling the motor as not being that great of a value for the money. The accusump got only one vote and that was not one of the bigger teams (who had never spun a bearing and weren't sure if they had a baffled pan). So I ended up extending the pickup and going with a baffled pan. To say "I haven't had any issues since" wouln't matter but kinda like my rollbar, eases my mind a bit. Just thought I'd add my .02 to this as I had a similar concern regarding oiling and spinning #2 bearing. At the end of the day, the total cost was just over 300.00 for baffled pan (incl. core), extended pickup tube and new oil pan gasket. I found in my talking to people, the guys who had spun a bearing had a lot better idea of what was going on than the guys who hadn't - maybe that's logical.

Don't know if that lends any credence to this post. Sorry this happened to you Mike.

Edit: And like said earlier, everyone suggested running oil at full or somewhat over full to reduce the risk on track. I have tried to run 1/2 quart overfull but sometimes space.


[Modified by phat-S, 6:45 AM 12/20/2001]