Are there any other companies besides King Motorsports making these.

 

Not that I know of. I am just using the Ingalls Eng. parts.

 

SS Works also makes them.

Not sure where he got them, but email my friend yeahLS (shawn) at sbota@stoptech.com

 

Thanks Yoshi!

 

Adam, what did you find out?

 

np

yoshi - who likes going back to adam's post about his cage

 

Mine are from Specialty Products (www.specprod.com). Oscar (o-man) ordered them for me. They're not all fancy and anodized, but they're adjustable, and were 100 dollars. Sold.

 

There are a slew of Japanese companies that make these besides those mentioned, Cusco. US based companies I am aware of that sell them Comptech, Ingles, Suspension Techniques and SPC.

Hey Karl,
You didn't find the SPC units to be overly heavy?


[Modified by DB1-R81, 10:00 PM 12/20/2001]

 

They are a bit (ok, a lot) heavy. Not real sure how this affects things. Scott (RR98ITR), care to comment?

--Karl, who saw that they were heavy...but the $200 difference betweem them and the King piece is 1/82nd of the way towards my Suburban...

 

Hey Karl,
I'm cheaper than you, washers, not shims and long bolts!
How often do you change, adjust your rear camber?


[Modified by DB1-R81, 10:45 PM 12/20/2001]

 

I guess I should have specified that I bought these because I wanted *more* negative in the rear, not less. Washers won't get me that. If I run the car much lower than it is it'll start bottoming out, so this was a necessary thing.

Since finding the 2 degrees setting (which works well w/ my setup) I haven't messed with it much.

 

ingalls here

 

Heavy? Puh-leez.

All I have to add is that the Ingalls kit I had first had a bad habit of walking it's bushings out, and the King Heim's rattle just like you'd expect. I think that the degree of freedom of rotation on heims is a good thing, but once your total wheel travel is inside two inches how big of a deal can that be?

Scott, who's glad to have Karl back....the Skills Master was too confrontational....skool me? Skool You!

 

Yeah I don't know what happened to that Skills Master guy. Hope he doesn't see my name in SCC lest he start a topic extolling my virtues (should be a short post).

As to the weight of that thing...I kind of think that maybe the high rear spring rates most of us run negates the disadvantage of a heavy upper adjustable arm?

 

Karl,

Definitely, once you've developed your technical savvy past the point where you'd consider saving weight with light spring rates, you realize that many of these so called disadvantages are nothing of the sort.

Scott, who loves seeing his hero's like Karl, Andy, Scott, Glen,...in the pages of SCC, Import Tuner, Turbo in Drag, etc......

 

Hey guys!

I had a friend make me some camber and toe adjusters with some high tech titanium and aluminium. The effort for producing them was well worth it. When we travel to new circuits all over the country, it sure does help to have some adjustment. It really makes it nice when you know which way to turn the link to shorten or lengthen when doing a toe adjustment as well. Have you all had to crawl under the car and try and adjust rear toe on a Honda? You need a pry bar and a 14mm to get the toe to change. with adjusters you loosen the lock nuts and turn the link then tighten the nuts up again. Much easier in my opinion. As soon as I get my lathe I will be selling them with expensive aluminium rod ends and a choice of either cromoly or titanium mount to the body.

rog

ps can someone host the jpegs? I can email them to you.

 

 

Hey Roger,

There does not appear to be any flats on the shafts? Doesn't this put a bit of stress on the rod end when making adjustments? Or do you just use the nut on the opposite end to put the wrench on when tightening and loosening? Please let us know when they are available.

 

Thank you Frank for posting those for me.

Actually I use an anti-seize lube on the threads and they will turn by hand. I actually may knurl the link to help adjust them. If you'd rather have flats on them let me know. They will not be cheap! If you want cheap- get Inga___!

My buddy also made that lightweight steering wheel adapter for 3-quick release hubs to Momo wheel.

rog

 

For us newbies, will the Ingalls be ok? I have +0.7 LR camber and -1.1 RR

Rear end is set for left corners, NASCAR/IRL oval anyone?

BTW, Congrats Mr. Foo.

 

Suspension Techniques has some pretty nice aluminum rear toe adjusters for civics and 'tegs. Got 'em on my hatch.

 

Frank

how much and how long does it take to get them?


[Modified by trackie, 11:41 PM 12/22/2001]

 

Scott

thanks, that helps me figure out why my car tracks funny under high speed heavy braking. may be a combination the lca es bushings being too small and the ingalls camber kit.

btw, did you ever settle find ur orginal posting info on bump steer correction?

 

Trackie, those were not Franks adjusters. He was hosting the pics for Prospec (Foo). Read the post above the pics. HTH.

 

Here, again, are my front and rear bump steer measurements taken at approx 5-5.5 inch ride height with 23 inch tires on 15 inch rims:

Rear:

At 2 inch bump: 0.085 IN
At 1 inch bump: 0.060 IN
At Zero: 0.000
At 1 inch droop: 0.000
At 2 inch droop: 0.040 OUT

Front:

At 1.75 inch bump: 0.120 IN
At 1.00 inch bump: 0.090 IN
At Zero: 0.000
At 1.00 inch droop: 0.060 OUT
At 2.00 inch droop: 0.060 OUT

Now Roger is right about the pain (not to mention imprecision) associated with rear toe adjustments with the stock hardware. But I think the hot setup would be a heim link as pictured - where the length has been selected and FIXED with an eye toward minimizing rear bump steer within the operating travel range (I've mentioned elsewhere that the rear view virtual swing arm gets shorter when we lower the car thus worsening the bumpsteer since operating ride height is no longer at the design zero) - in conjunction with a yoke style adjuster stradling the inboard chassis mount end adjuster bolt (if you've been around motorcycles from the 70's you know what the chain adjusters look like - the adjuster bolt would locate on the rolled edge of the chassis flange.

Scott, who really wonders about Roger and Taz spending most of their racing year in parts east next year...would love to ask some philosophical questions about local club racing, SCCA, and the future of a burgeoning but fragmented sport....