I recently purchased my old 88 hf back from my friend and it has a brand new stock alternator in it and the battery smelled like rotten eggs the next day it died on me so I bought a new battery and put it in. 2 days later my car started smelling of rotten eggs again, and i popped the hood to check on the battery and the caps on top were both open and there was acid all over the hood. I put water in it closed them cleaned it up and drove it to NAPA and they tested the battery and said it had no cold cranking amps and it had 14 volts with the car off. I took that battery back to the store (pepboys) and when i popped the hood that time one cap was missing and the remaining cap was barely hanging on. Acid was everywhere and when I pulled it out the 4 sides were bulging outwards. They took the battery reluctantly and gave me a replacement and tested it first. Now I popped the hood today and one cap was popped on the battery and I closed it.

I don't want this battery to die too so does anyone know what could be the problem?

Could it be that the car has a DX 5 speed tranny instead of the HF one? (thinking of the new 3500 rpms at about 70mph)

Any reply is greatly appreciated
Thanks in advance

 

The tranny wouldn't cause that problem... I think there is some sort of an overcharging problem, or a short...

 

I agree but i'm leaning to short somthing just tells me.

 

id change the alt again, maby you got a bad one. take it off and have it tested at autozone or pep boys

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lightcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">id change the alt again, maby you got a bad one. take it off and have it tested at autozone or pep boys</TD></TR></TABLE>

2 months ago my friend bought a brand new alternator. turns out that it had a slight overcharging problem. so my friend starts his car then "BOOM, CRACKLE, ZAP!" his battery exploded all over his engine bay, melting some lines and covering everything with acid and eating all of the pretty billet coloring off of his AEM goodies. he took it in to test it and it turned out it was not regulating the voltage properly and it was actually not regulating voltage at all.

 

forgot to mention a few things:

Alternator tested good same day as battery tested bad (14.1 volts at about 3k rpms)

Stereo cuts out at about 2k rpms when car is cold but when it warms up it's good
It has been raining this past week

intalled a voltage gauge to monitor it is it normal to be at about 16-18 volts at 3.5krpms?

When the car is off the gauge rests at 13-14 volts

Maybe this helps to narrow it down?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by x3r0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
intalled a voltage gauge to monitor it is it normal to be at about 16-18 volts at 3.5krpms?</TD></TR></TABLE>

NO! Get that **** out of there.

 

dont run the pwer for your cd plkayer directly to the battery, its bad for the battery

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by x3r0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">intalled a voltage gauge to monitor it is it normal to be at about 16-18 volts at 3.5krpms?</TD></TR></TABLE>

erupting batteries is the direct result of an overcharging alternator due ot a bad voltage regulator. that is your problem. get a new alternator. no questions.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drdisco69 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

NO! Get that **** out of there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Get what **** out of there? the gauge? or the battery?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ihateslowhondas &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont run the pwer for your cd plkayer directly to the battery, its bad for the battery</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know for a fact the the Red is NOT direct, it goes to the fuse panel, The Yellow is unknown (but used stock wire from car), and I believe the ground is direct to the battery

But could the CD Player alone really do that?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

erupting batteries is the direct result of an overcharging alternator due ot a bad voltage regulator. that is your problem. get a new alternator. no questions.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by x3r0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">forgot to mention a few things:

Alternator tested good same day as battery tested bad (14.1 volts at about 3k rpms)

....

</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

i dont think you want to ground a CD player directly to the battery. at least i have never known anybody to do this.

 

its your alternator, you said that you were getting 16.1 volts, that is overcharging and causing your battery to explode...get a new alternator than a battery...

 

Well thanks for your help everyone, I will rewire the CD Player correctly, and get the battery/alternator re-tested tomorrow

Oh, and do new alternators have any kind of warranty on them? (I didn't buy it so i don't know)

 

idk, you tell us...my alternator has a lifetime warrenty from autozone...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxgator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...has a lifetime warrenty from autozone... </TD></TR></TABLE>

^^Exactly what I needed to know^^

Thanks

 

You are 'supposed to' ground your deck out to the body, which goes to the negative battery cable. It ends up there anyways, and doesn't have any effect if you ground it straight to the battery. Electrical systems have to be in a loop going from the source to the consumer, and back to the source...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I8ayellowcrayon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You are 'supposed to' ground your deck out to the body, which goes to the negative battery cable. It ends up there anyways, and doesn't have any effect if you ground it straight to the battery. Electrical systems have to be in a loop going from the source to the consumer, and back to the source... </TD></TR></TABLE>

thumbs up to conventional wisdom


Modified by shivern at 5:38 PM 10/26/2004

 

12v constant instead of 12v switch? did it to me!

 

overcharging.

When they tested it did u turn the high beams on so the ecu "turns on" the alternator? i bet not..

thats why they got the same voltage u got at the battery w/ the car off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shivern &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> thumbs up to conventional wisdom[/i]</TD></TR></TABLE>



Any updates? What happened?