So without touching the bottom end what would be the best combination of parts for a na set-up. What header/cams/itb's/intake/exhaust etc etc

Minor headwork can be included with your opinion, what na set-ups are creating the most power without messing with the bottom end. Post dyno results to prove your opinion if possible.





Modified by digital sol at 6:51 PM 10/24/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by digital sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So without touching the bottom end or the head what would be the best combination of parts for a na set-up. What header/cams/itb's/intake/exhaust etc etc


Minor headwork can be included with your opinion, what na set-ups are creating the most power without messing with the bottom end or the head, well post some headwork. Post dyno results to prove your opinion if possible.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You said without touching the head, and cams are part of the head. Then you go on to say minor headwork can be included. Then you AGAIN say without touching the head, in the same sentence no less.

What the hell do you exactly want?

 

lol yea i realized that after i posted, headwork can be included, definately include cams and what stage, and what valvetrain as well

 

Dude, I've spent months researching this stuff on several different forums and I'm still not sure what I want. People can't just give you the answers to a question like this. You have to spend the time and the energy researching it yourself.

Since you are posting in the itr forum I'm assuming you have an itr, though your name implies otherwise. This forum, and team-integra.net have a lot of great information and it is where I have learned most of my stuff. Search, search, and search again. The information is there. If you are looking for a quick answer, you shouldn't be modding your car.

Heres one tip. The exhaust is an exhaust system. You never want to decrease diameter, you want to stay the same diamater or increase as you go away from the header. You didn't mention cat, but that is an important part of the system.

You need to set an approximate hp goal, and choose which part of the powerband you want to make your horsepower. After you have decided that, you can begin researching which parts will complement that goal.

I'm sure people will tell you setups, but how do you know they know what they are talking about or just spouting off what they heard from their buddy? Even if their setup is a good one, it might not work for your power goals and power band. A setup that isn't customized to your needs will actually end up hurting your performance rather than helping it. And in order to get a good setup, you have to do a lot of research.

 

JDM 4-1 header or Toda if you want to spend that much
any 2.5" exhaust just pick a muffler that you like the sound of
Buddy club stage 3 cams
i say pretty much any intake an intakes an intake to me but the J's racing one is good

 

yea but every thread about which header is better etc is all the same, people post they like there header, theres never any real dyno's to prove which header is truly better and so fourth

ive spent alot of time researching and everytime i have an answer, it controdicts with what was said in another thread

 

id like to make good power up top between 5500-9500 rpm if i do get head work

 

thats the truth too i search on it alot too and i see the same thing i beleive that you pay for what you get though in most cases

 

different cams
buddy club stg 3 great bottem end good top
buddy club stg 4 great top good bottem
thats what i read somewhere

 

Read the articles on team-integra.net. Once you understand the information there, you will realize that you shouldn't choose a part by brand name, but by whether its specifications match the ones you need. There really isn't a right or wrong answer, and everyone will tell you x brand is better. Once you understand why a certain kind of part is good for your car, you can narrow it down a lot. When you have narrowed it down to 2-3 choices, it becomes much easier to decide, and then you can make an educated guess.

This is the process I used to decide on an exhaust for example. I read the articles and learned how an exhaust will help your car. I decided on the size range that would benefit my power goals. Then I looked to see which manufactures made that size exhaust. Then I searched HT and TI for the brand name and read all the good and bad reviews of each one of those exhausts. Finally, I chose the one that seemed to be the best.

And thats just for the exhaust. It's a lot of work, but it's a lot more work to raise another $700 because i chose the wrong exhaust. Do it right the first time.

 

yea, definately get what you pay for, ive been there before

im just trying to put a set-up together on paper and then begin to buy parts, i dont wanna rush into something and buy somethen that i will just have to sell later. Ive already got a jdm header but i want to upgrade, either to hytech or toda, still not sure which is better. Eventually ill get cams and valvetrain but thats towards the back of the list, id like to be able to rev safely around 9-10k rpm as long as its still making power, not in it just for the rev's. which is why i also posted about itb's. itb's make sick power up top but i havnt heard any good brands to buy or which is better for the $

ive got the basic i/h/e but i wanna go further and get this thing really moving

 

Smsp header
carsound cat or testpipe
2.5'' exhaust
cams : skunk2 stage2, toda spec B, Jun type 3, Crower 403
Hondata a lot of tuning
You should hit 200 whp on a dynojet

 

have 2.5" exhaust
have carsound high flow cat
have hondata

basically need a smsp/hytech/toda header and cam's

any-1 know the prices of the diff headers?
and which cam's can be used on stock valvetrain for maximum performance towards high rpm. i want my power between 5500-8400, dont really care about anything below vtec. Ill get diff cam after i do up my valve train far down the road.

 

"best" is quite a subjective term.....

here is a small sampling and only one of the million ways to do it:

sell itr head
build 1st gen b16 head that is ported by portflow OR rlz
add toda spec a cams
toda valve springs
portflow Ti retainers
keep itr bottom end
add ctr pistons
clay that bitch (possibly not needed)
hondata s200
mugen intake + AIR IM, OR toda itb's
toda OR hytech header
2.5" to 3" exhaust
Done.

Reliable, over 200whp, and daily-driver-able for 100,000mi

-hth

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"best" is quite a subjective term.....

here is a small sampling and only one of the million ways to do it:

sell itr head
build 1st gen b16 head that is ported by portflow OR rlz
add toda spec a cams
toda valve springs
portflow Ti retainers
keep itr bottom end
add ctr pistons
clay that bitch (possibly not needed)
hondata s200
mugen intake + AIR IM, OR toda itb's
toda OR hytech header
2.5" to 3" exhaust
Done.

Reliable, over 200whp, and daily-driver-able for 100,000mi

-hth</TD></TR></TABLE>

jiyaaaaaaaah

 

 

my mild setup is not even take the head apart off the block...

just putting new stuff into the head..

Skunk2 cams
ferrea valvetrain but still using stock ITR valves since I dont see the point of replacing the valves for all motor

but instead of running an intake, I am going to be running a kick *** custom ITB..

going to be running Kenji ECU with vafc.. we will see what happen.. if not

I will switch to Autronic plug and play.

I am not trying to be the fastest or anything.. just a bit faster and very reliable.

Eddie

 

.....on second thought, just drop in a dc5r motor with bolt-ons and hondata + call it a day.

 

jun 3's
cams
header
exhaust
hondata
valve springs and retainers