I have a b16 in my crx 90. I was running a compression check yesterday when the car just went dead. I have no power inside the car. Obviously the first thing I throught was that my battery finally went bad. This is not the case. I checked alot of the fuses and none of them seem to be blown. I also checked to make sure I had good contact with wires in the fuse box under the hood, and that the ecu plugs were in nice and tight. Suggestions?

Picture for views.






Modified by V8SHME8 at 5:11 PM 10/21/2004

 

check the main relay, check all the grounds does it seem like that your motor isnt sitting right? or is it just me?


Modified by B16 ED9 at 11:49 AM 10/21/2004

 

i dont think the main relay whould cause the power to go out ..

 

Motor is is sitting fine, probably just the picture(I sized it down for the 56kers). Where is the main relay?

 

This problem really presents itself more like a fuse than a relay. My interior clock does not even have power. The grounds that I can find are the thermostat housing, valve cover, and core support.

 

check ignition fuse

 

I checked every fuse under that dash 1-18 which applied. As well as the fuses under the hood. There is no fuse in either box called the ignition fuse. Where is this fuse?

 

You have no power to anything?
If this is the case, you probably blew your main fuse.

Its the big square 60amp fuse in the engine bay fuse box. I beleive its called the battery fuse.

 

make sure the batteries conected to the wires are looking good and filled with residue, my friends crx's negative wire went smoking and left a greenish residue on it and it caused his car to go dead until he changed it .

 

The battery cables are in good condition by the way.

There is specifically a main fuse and it is titled "G" in the fuse box. The 60 amp battery fuse is not blown. I was in the process of taking the fuse box apart to get access to the main fuse when I ran into a snag. Bracket B2 is bolted from the top by some strange looking screw. It is a 6 point screw with a small post in the middle making it impossible to remove with a regular torx drive. It does look as though some of the plastic on the outside of this fuse has melted. I am not certain as to whether this was there before. I never made a mental note as to the integrity of my engine fuse box.



Modified by V8SHME8 at 6:47 PM 10/21/2004

 

I had this problem on mine and the ignition switch went out. I bought a new on a the local honda dealer for 47.00 and tax. I was driving it and it went dead. Checked all the fuses and rewlays and ground and noticed I had no power coming back form the ignition switch, replaced it and it works every time.

 

make sure you check the big fuses under the dash, there the ones that are bolted down.

I had the same problem and the fuse was hard to tell if it was broke i missed it the first 3-4 times i checked it.

Take a voltmeter and check for continuity across them

 

all fuses, battery, alternator and, <U>grounds.</U>

 

what method did you use to crank the starter?

 

you stated that you know the battery isnt dead, how do you know that? take a volt meter and test it, if its lower than 11 volts you wont be able to start the car,

since you have no power to the clock, and the clock fuse isnt blown, then you obviously have a power issue, it could only be 1 of 3 things, a) battery is dead (very likely) b) power cable is bad or is not hooked up tight, i know that may not make sence but i have had that cable on as tight as i could get but it was too corroded and it wouldnt get a good connection c) your ground cable is not hooked up.

The only other thing that i see that looks bad is that your intake is very close to the negative post. you mentioned that one of the plastic peices on the fuse was melted, its possible that your post touched the intake and grounded out your car, If that happend it could be a number of things.

do your lights come on?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowpokesi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you stated that you know the battery isnt dead, how do you know that? take a volt meter and test it, if its lower than 11 volts you wont be able to start the car,</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have an extra optima red top which has never been used. I can not even jump the car.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowpokesi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">since you have no power to the clock, and the clock fuse isnt blown, then you obviously have a power issue, it could only be 1 of 3 things, a) battery is dead (very likely) b) power cable is bad or is not hooked up tight, i know that may not make sence but i have had that cable on as tight as i could get but it was too corroded and it wouldnt get a good connection c) your ground cable is not hooked up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Battery, battery cables, and grounds are fine.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowpokesi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only other thing that i see that looks bad is that your intake is very close to the negative post. you mentioned that one of the plastic peices on the fuse was melted, its possible that your post touched the intake and grounded out your car, If that happend it could be a number of things.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is the positive post, and it is completely insulated by that rubber terminal cover.

 

I am going to check the fuses again as per someones advice as well as the ignition switch and see where that gets me.

 

yea i meant positive,

do your lights come on?

 

No, power is not getting to the inside of the car from the battery. I should add that I checked the transmission ground, and that is also in good condition. I can not seem to locate large fuses that are supposed to be under the dash. All I can find is the small blade style fuses directly below the steering wheel.

 

dude its either you 50 amp or 60 amp fuse in your engine bay fuse box. I had same problem when i forgot to unplug batter when doing something one time. Call honda dealer and get a new fuse its like 3 bucks and put it in. The car will start I'm positive.

DEF

 

if your not getting power to your lights then its not your ignition switch, your ignition doesnt need to be on in order to get lights.

id get a volt meter and check the big square fuses under the hood, they are hard to tell just by looking if there busted sometimes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowpokesi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if your not getting power to your lights then its not your ignition switch, your ignition doesnt need to be on in order to get lights.

id get a volt meter and check the big square fuses under the hood, they are hard to tell just by looking if there busted sometimes.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Or a tester, that has a light built in, those are good when checkin for blown fuses or other things

 

Well, I verified that all the fuses are fine once again. The question is do any of the three lines that run into the main fuse connect with one another. I have continuity across the whole fuse box other than in the mainfuse which does not affect flow across the box.

 

did u check ur fuses with either a test light or a voltmeter? just because they dont appear to be blown, doesnt mean they arent. at my tech school, they have a cars with bugs in them for competition purposes with fuses that are no good, but appear to be good.

 

Yes, I tested them with a voltmeter. The original question about the lines running into the mainfuse is what perplexes me.


Modified by V8SHME8 at 9:15 AM 10/25/2004