mobile 1 synthetic or castrol syntec?
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From: winnipeg, mb, canada
mobile 1 synthetic or castrol syntec?
i heard both oils are very good but what are the major differences between the two, and how often should i be doin oil changes, on my mx6 i was doin them every 4 thousand k but this is a prelude and mx6's r **** thnks 
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
Re: mobile 1 synthetic or castrol syntec? (WPG_5thgenprelude)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WPG_5thgenprelude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i heard both oils are very good but what are the major differences between the two, and how often should i be doin oil changes, on my mx6 i was doin them every 4 thousand k but this is a prelude and mx6's r **** thnks </TD></TR></TABLE>
mobil 1 is superior to american syntec, because it is a truer synthetic than the castrol.
mobil 1 uses conventional oil to mix and dissolve its additive package into, while the base oil is a true Group IV/V synthetic.
castrol on the otherhand appears to be a hydrocracked group III base, which translates into it not being a true synthetic oil, but rather a very good, treated dino oil. that's all fine and good, but if i'm going to pay $5 a quart for a synthetic oil, it'd better be synthetic.
oil changes should be done according to the manual's schedule if you use conventional oil. if you use a synthetic, it's probably ok to go with a 7500 mi schedule.
yes i said 7500 miles between oil changes. and at that point, the oil is probably still good, it's the filter that needs changing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>mobil 1 is superior to american syntec, because it is a truer synthetic than the castrol.
mobil 1 uses conventional oil to mix and dissolve its additive package into, while the base oil is a true Group IV/V synthetic.
castrol on the otherhand appears to be a hydrocracked group III base, which translates into it not being a true synthetic oil, but rather a very good, treated dino oil. that's all fine and good, but if i'm going to pay $5 a quart for a synthetic oil, it'd better be synthetic.
oil changes should be done according to the manual's schedule if you use conventional oil. if you use a synthetic, it's probably ok to go with a 7500 mi schedule.
yes i said 7500 miles between oil changes. and at that point, the oil is probably still good, it's the filter that needs changing.
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
Re: (gaydm.accord)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gaydm.accord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my employee handbook says mobil 1 sythentic oil changes should be done 5k miles but could go up to 7-10k miles.
but ill stick to 3 thousand since i get it free.</TD></TR></TABLE>
sounds about right. is this honda's tech handbook?
5000, 6000, 7500, 10000 all make way more sense than 3000 miles. 3000 miles is an utter waste of oil, money, and time.
i always forget the url, but i'm sure everyone's seen the little study done by some guys who ran mobil 1 in a firebird for 17,000 miles before the mobil 1 finally gave out (using lab analysis). they're doing the test with amsoil right now.
but ill stick to 3 thousand since i get it free.</TD></TR></TABLE>
sounds about right. is this honda's tech handbook?
5000, 6000, 7500, 10000 all make way more sense than 3000 miles. 3000 miles is an utter waste of oil, money, and time.
i always forget the url, but i'm sure everyone's seen the little study done by some guys who ran mobil 1 in a firebird for 17,000 miles before the mobil 1 finally gave out (using lab analysis). they're doing the test with amsoil right now.
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From: nunya, GAHdamnBusiness, ethiopia
haha no... its where i work some oil lube chain
i also remember something about with new vehicles... your suppose to use synthetic blend and not full synthetic right away. can someone verify this?
i also remember something about with new vehicles... your suppose to use synthetic blend and not full synthetic right away. can someone verify this?
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Toronto, Canada
Mobil 1 is a better synthetic that American Castrol, but between Mobil 1 and German Castrol Syntec, now that's a tough one. All I know is that Mobil 1 burns off fastre in my H22 than German Castrol because the German Castrol is a thicker 30 weight at operating temperature.
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From: Natchitoches, LA, USA
Re: (PrettyLude)
yea, i just bought a 5 quart container of mobil one at walmart for $20. here is a portion of an article on NTPOG.org about what filters are good, and what filters are bad.
<U>Honda Prelude Oil Filter Recommendations</U>
Currently, it appears that there are four options for a decent oil filter for the Prelude with the OEM spec's:
The Mobil 1 oil filter is well constructed and a decent filter. Unfortunately, I'm not been able to get my hands on a stock spec'ed Mobil 1 filter (but have taken apart a few oversized ones). However, I have been able to discern that it's made on the same line as the K&N filter, but will a media that is slightly better at filtration. Based on testing by others I still think this is a really good filter.
The AMSOIL SDF-20 filter is well constructed and lab tests show that it's an excellent filter. At 6350 miles this filter was able to generate the above lab test report and show that 10w40 oil in an H22A4 causes no problems. On the other hand, it's big brother the SDF-44 did not filter oil well at 13,000 miles. Proving that an oversized filter is not always a good thing when it comes to filtration.
The K&N HP-1004 is a great filter. The internal construction is the same as the Mobil 1 filter, but it does not filter the down to as small a particle size. This filter is meant to maintain higher flow while still actively filtering, as opposed to by-passing. Lab tests using Mobil 1 at 7500 miles indicates that this filter works as well as the AMSOIL SDF-20.
The FRAM x2 (and only the FRAM x2 Series) is probably the most heavily constructed filter I've seen so far. Though all of the Japanese made filters were of exceptional quality, the Fram x2 was as good in every way. Of note with the construction were the following features: metal screen backing the media, heavy metal end caps (all other Fram filters have cardboard), and 2 layer filter medium. Lab testing indicates this filter is fine at 5000 miles use with Mobil 1. As with all of the Fram filters and OEM Honda oil filters the x2 uses the standard spring loaded plastic by-pass valve that many people do not like. However, lab tests do not indicate that the valve jams or fails to work. It's possible that a hard enough impact at a sharp angle while the filter was by-passing might cause it to jam open, but I suspect the fluid within the filter would prevent this.
<U>What Not To Use: Bosch, STP, and Wal-Mart Supertech</U>
While both the STP and the Bosch filters were at one point good filters, they are now manufactured off shore of sub-standard parts. The filter assemblies tended not to have even pleats and generally less media than other comparable filters. There was also a complete lack of a well functioning by-pass valve. With most filters there is an obvious and discrete by-pass valve, but with these filters the can spring and the by-pass valve are the same. The real issue is that in order for the filter to properly by-pass the entire filter assembly would have to move down during use. That is actually not possible with filter assembly properly seating into the anti-drain back valve. This means that the by-pass will effectively never work. In the center of the of picture below you see the filter assembly (top) and the can spring/by-pass valve (bottom). (The can spring / by-pass valve would flip over and into the filter assembly.)
<U>Honda Prelude Oil Filter Recommendations</U>
Currently, it appears that there are four options for a decent oil filter for the Prelude with the OEM spec's:
The Mobil 1 oil filter is well constructed and a decent filter. Unfortunately, I'm not been able to get my hands on a stock spec'ed Mobil 1 filter (but have taken apart a few oversized ones). However, I have been able to discern that it's made on the same line as the K&N filter, but will a media that is slightly better at filtration. Based on testing by others I still think this is a really good filter.
The AMSOIL SDF-20 filter is well constructed and lab tests show that it's an excellent filter. At 6350 miles this filter was able to generate the above lab test report and show that 10w40 oil in an H22A4 causes no problems. On the other hand, it's big brother the SDF-44 did not filter oil well at 13,000 miles. Proving that an oversized filter is not always a good thing when it comes to filtration.
The K&N HP-1004 is a great filter. The internal construction is the same as the Mobil 1 filter, but it does not filter the down to as small a particle size. This filter is meant to maintain higher flow while still actively filtering, as opposed to by-passing. Lab tests using Mobil 1 at 7500 miles indicates that this filter works as well as the AMSOIL SDF-20.
The FRAM x2 (and only the FRAM x2 Series) is probably the most heavily constructed filter I've seen so far. Though all of the Japanese made filters were of exceptional quality, the Fram x2 was as good in every way. Of note with the construction were the following features: metal screen backing the media, heavy metal end caps (all other Fram filters have cardboard), and 2 layer filter medium. Lab testing indicates this filter is fine at 5000 miles use with Mobil 1. As with all of the Fram filters and OEM Honda oil filters the x2 uses the standard spring loaded plastic by-pass valve that many people do not like. However, lab tests do not indicate that the valve jams or fails to work. It's possible that a hard enough impact at a sharp angle while the filter was by-passing might cause it to jam open, but I suspect the fluid within the filter would prevent this.
<U>What Not To Use: Bosch, STP, and Wal-Mart Supertech</U>
While both the STP and the Bosch filters were at one point good filters, they are now manufactured off shore of sub-standard parts. The filter assemblies tended not to have even pleats and generally less media than other comparable filters. There was also a complete lack of a well functioning by-pass valve. With most filters there is an obvious and discrete by-pass valve, but with these filters the can spring and the by-pass valve are the same. The real issue is that in order for the filter to properly by-pass the entire filter assembly would have to move down during use. That is actually not possible with filter assembly properly seating into the anti-drain back valve. This means that the by-pass will effectively never work. In the center of the of picture below you see the filter assembly (top) and the can spring/by-pass valve (bottom). (The can spring / by-pass valve would flip over and into the filter assembly.)
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: durham, nc
wow i feel like an idiot am i the only one that changes right at 3k miles. i use mobil 1 synthetic 5w30 and im going to go to wallmart next time autozone is too expensive i average about 30 $ every oil change i guess its better to be safe than sorry.
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: toronto, ontario, canada
Re: (ChrisRicketts)
chris you ever heard anything about the purple oil?
i've heard mobile one is excellent..
amsoil is a bit better and purple stuff is above all?
true of false?
and what would you recommend for a h23 with 190km burning about .5 -.75 L / Month?
im using conventional 5-30 now. i think id be burning alot more if i were to switch to 10-30 synth...
ps. also using lucas engine oil stabalizer.. started to help at the beginning now seems back to normal burning rate..
i've heard mobile one is excellent..
amsoil is a bit better and purple stuff is above all?
true of false?
and what would you recommend for a h23 with 190km burning about .5 -.75 L / Month?
im using conventional 5-30 now. i think id be burning alot more if i were to switch to 10-30 synth...
ps. also using lucas engine oil stabalizer.. started to help at the beginning now seems back to normal burning rate..
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From: Bad Newz Kennels
Re: (Sc00teR_92h23)
just by looking at the back of the bottle, you can decipher which oil is better.
german castrol syntec 0w-30 has these manufacters aprrovals: porsche approved, bmw longlife-01, mercedes-benz 229.1, 229.3, VW 502.00, 505.00, 503.1 and mobil1 5w/10w-30 does not carry any of these manufacters approvals.
german castrol syntec is ACEA A3 for high performance/ extended drains.
mobil1 5w/10w-30 is ACEA A1 for fuel economy.
the product sheets of these two oils will confirm my claims.
german castrol syntec 0w-30 has these manufacters aprrovals: porsche approved, bmw longlife-01, mercedes-benz 229.1, 229.3, VW 502.00, 505.00, 503.1 and mobil1 5w/10w-30 does not carry any of these manufacters approvals.
german castrol syntec is ACEA A3 for high performance/ extended drains.
mobil1 5w/10w-30 is ACEA A1 for fuel economy.
the product sheets of these two oils will confirm my claims.
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From: Bay Area, CA, USA
Re: (ejprimo)
Manufacturer's approvals = $$$ invested by oil company. Just like CARB approvals and such. Going by these (esp since Mobil is probably not going to be a Porsche standard) doesn't state anything. I don't see anything on ACEA's web page that would decipher the differences between ACEA 1 and 3.
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From: Bad Newz Kennels
Re: (TimeRacer)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TimeRacer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I don't see anything on ACEA's web page that would decipher the differences between ACEA 1 and 3. </TD></TR></TABLE>
apparently you were not looking hard enough.
http://www.acea.be/ACEA/200206...s.pdf
ACEA 2002 EUROPEAN OIL SEQUENCES FOR SERVICE-FILL OILS
Gasoline Sequences
A1 Oil intended for use in gasoline engines specifically designed to be capable of using low friction, low viscosity
oils with a High Temperature / High Shear Rate Viscosity of 2.6 to 3.5 mPa.s. These oils may be unsuitable for use in
some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.
A2 General purpose oil intended for use in most gasoline engines with normal drain intervals, although it may not
be suitable for some high performance engines.
A3 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use in high performance gasoline engines and / or for extended drain
intervals where specified by the engine manufacturer, and / or for year-round use of low viscosity oils, and/or for severe
operating conditions as defined by the engine manufacturer.
A4 Reserved for future use for gasoline direct injection engines.
A5 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use at extended drain intervals in high performance gasoline engines
designed to be capable of using low friction, low viscosity oils with a HT/HS of 2.9 to 3.5 mPa.s. These oils may be
unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.
all ACEA A3 motor oils have a high temperature high shear number greater than 3.5. german castrol syntec 0w-30 has an hths of 3.6 allowing it to get the manufacturer approvals of many european companies. the only other 30 weight motor oils that do qualify for ACEA A3 is amsoil 5w-30, redline 5w/10w-30, bmw synthetic 5w-30, and a few other boutique oils.
all ACEA A1 motor oils has a high temperature high shear number between 2.9-3.4. mobil 1 5w-30 has an hths of 3.08.
german castrol syntec 0w-30 has the same manufacter approvals that come on bottles of mobil1 0w-40 and valvoline 5w-40. as long as a motor oil fulfills the required specs of a car manufacturer, then it will be labeled so on any brand of motor oil.
apparently you were not looking hard enough.
http://www.acea.be/ACEA/200206...s.pdf
ACEA 2002 EUROPEAN OIL SEQUENCES FOR SERVICE-FILL OILS
Gasoline Sequences
A1 Oil intended for use in gasoline engines specifically designed to be capable of using low friction, low viscosity
oils with a High Temperature / High Shear Rate Viscosity of 2.6 to 3.5 mPa.s. These oils may be unsuitable for use in
some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.
A2 General purpose oil intended for use in most gasoline engines with normal drain intervals, although it may not
be suitable for some high performance engines.
A3 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use in high performance gasoline engines and / or for extended drain
intervals where specified by the engine manufacturer, and / or for year-round use of low viscosity oils, and/or for severe
operating conditions as defined by the engine manufacturer.
A4 Reserved for future use for gasoline direct injection engines.
A5 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use at extended drain intervals in high performance gasoline engines
designed to be capable of using low friction, low viscosity oils with a HT/HS of 2.9 to 3.5 mPa.s. These oils may be
unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.
all ACEA A3 motor oils have a high temperature high shear number greater than 3.5. german castrol syntec 0w-30 has an hths of 3.6 allowing it to get the manufacturer approvals of many european companies. the only other 30 weight motor oils that do qualify for ACEA A3 is amsoil 5w-30, redline 5w/10w-30, bmw synthetic 5w-30, and a few other boutique oils.
all ACEA A1 motor oils has a high temperature high shear number between 2.9-3.4. mobil 1 5w-30 has an hths of 3.08.
german castrol syntec 0w-30 has the same manufacter approvals that come on bottles of mobil1 0w-40 and valvoline 5w-40. as long as a motor oil fulfills the required specs of a car manufacturer, then it will be labeled so on any brand of motor oil.
