Finding Rev of h22
sup,
i know the rev is 7200...i recently installed adjustable cam gears, 70mm throttle body and cai...is the rev going to be higher? how can i find out without blowing the engine? I've never took the engine too high (afraid), how exactly can i determine the rev of the car now? IF i rev it over 7200...will the rev limiter kick in or will it blow if you get tooo high? Thanks
i know the rev is 7200...i recently installed adjustable cam gears, 70mm throttle body and cai...is the rev going to be higher? how can i find out without blowing the engine? I've never took the engine too high (afraid), how exactly can i determine the rev of the car now? IF i rev it over 7200...will the rev limiter kick in or will it blow if you get tooo high? Thanks
That's also a good way to start blowing **** up. I hate hearing about people buying a "chip" to raise rev limit.
First of all, just cuz you have a high redline doesnt mean you're gonna make power up there. Even if you were, you should do it the right way by upgrading vavle springs and the valvetrain.
It is also my personal opinion that RSX drivers are infamous for this. They end up buying hondata reflash, and end up with their engine bay on fire
First of all, just cuz you have a high redline doesnt mean you're gonna make power up there. Even if you were, you should do it the right way by upgrading vavle springs and the valvetrain.
It is also my personal opinion that RSX drivers are infamous for this. They end up buying hondata reflash, and end up with their engine bay on fire
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it wont go higher unless you get cams, upgraded valve springs and retainers. besides that, it wont make power up there to justify taking it that high unless you just wanna see yourself shift that high
lol.
Well it seems pretty pointless to try and explain this one.
here goes anyway. To raise the redline, you need to upgrade the VALVE TRAIN.
This includes; Valve Springs, Retainers, and cams if you are going to do it right.
There is no point in upgrading stock valvetrain unless you add aftermarket cams that make power that high in powerband.
Now you know. Read, Learn, dont beat the chit out of your car for no reason.
Well it seems pretty pointless to try and explain this one.
here goes anyway. To raise the redline, you need to upgrade the VALVE TRAIN.
This includes; Valve Springs, Retainers, and cams if you are going to do it right.
There is no point in upgrading stock valvetrain unless you add aftermarket cams that make power that high in powerband.
Now you know. Read, Learn, dont beat the chit out of your car for no reason.
When you do upgrade your valvetrain and get some nice cams. Then the redline can see 8000-8300 im geussing. It will probably stop making power around 7500-8000 based on dynos ive seen of diffrent cams.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98TypeSH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol.
Well it seems pretty pointless to try and explain this one.
here goes anyway. To raise the redline, you need to upgrade the VALVE TRAIN.
This includes; Valve Springs, Retainers, and cams if you are going to do it right.
There is no point in upgrading stock valvetrain unless you add aftermarket cams that make power that high in powerband.
Now you know. Read, Learn, dont beat the chit out of your car for no reason.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well it seems pretty pointless to try and explain this one.
here goes anyway. To raise the redline, you need to upgrade the VALVE TRAIN.
This includes; Valve Springs, Retainers, and cams if you are going to do it right.
There is no point in upgrading stock valvetrain unless you add aftermarket cams that make power that high in powerband.
Now you know. Read, Learn, dont beat the chit out of your car for no reason.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The redline is an imaginary line the factory makes up to prevent you from blowing up their finely tuned motors. The factory may also put a fuel cut to further prevent you from revving too high. This is all b/c the mechnical components of the motor's valvetrain can't keep all the parts moving at the correct speeds/times when you rev too high. When **** starts moving wrong, metal starts hitting metal, and then you blow up your motor.
You can change your car's computer to have any fuel cut (rev limit) you want it to. I can set the rev limit of a stock motor to 15,000 rpm if I wanted to. Would that still blow up the motor and would I make any horsepower up at 15,000? Yes and no. Does this make things more clear?
You can change your car's computer to have any fuel cut (rev limit) you want it to. I can set the rev limit of a stock motor to 15,000 rpm if I wanted to. Would that still blow up the motor and would I make any horsepower up at 15,000? Yes and no. Does this make things more clear?
You don't. And that's not how you would figure anything out. You would shift once your power band dies off. Talk to an engine builder. You are lost.
i'm kinda lost/confused, ive been going to the local meets to learn more...so before u redline ur car...ur engine will stay at constant power right?
Ok lets see if i can clarify.
If you were to look at a dyno plot, and say you take your car to about 7400 RPMS, this is only 2K past the recommended limit, so you should be alright. Anyway, if you look at the dyno plot, you will notice your numbers will start to fall off right at about 7200 rpms. Your cams have reached their efficiency level, and thus there is no point to rev them any higher.
I wouldn't take my stock bottom end past say, about 8300 rpms. My cams dont fall off right there, but i would highly recommend NOT taking stock bottom end past that.
With that being said, with aftermarket cams you aren't going past 8300, so cut the run short about 8K (this is with upgraded VALVE TRAIN AND CAMS!!) and see where they stop making power and adjust accordingly. Where your cams STOP making power, and not reving past 8300, that is your "red line". Hope ive helped some.
Cliff notes: Car stops making power, not doing anything but accelerating wear on the motor and just making noise. Pray to god nothing lets loose and you dont have coil bind.
Modified by 98TypeSH at 2:04 PM 10/22/2004
If you were to look at a dyno plot, and say you take your car to about 7400 RPMS, this is only 2K past the recommended limit, so you should be alright. Anyway, if you look at the dyno plot, you will notice your numbers will start to fall off right at about 7200 rpms. Your cams have reached their efficiency level, and thus there is no point to rev them any higher.
I wouldn't take my stock bottom end past say, about 8300 rpms. My cams dont fall off right there, but i would highly recommend NOT taking stock bottom end past that.
With that being said, with aftermarket cams you aren't going past 8300, so cut the run short about 8K (this is with upgraded VALVE TRAIN AND CAMS!!) and see where they stop making power and adjust accordingly. Where your cams STOP making power, and not reving past 8300, that is your "red line". Hope ive helped some.
Cliff notes: Car stops making power, not doing anything but accelerating wear on the motor and just making noise. Pray to god nothing lets loose and you dont have coil bind.
Modified by 98TypeSH at 2:04 PM 10/22/2004
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