ok i was torqin it down and set the torque wrench wrong and realized it then loosened it again and did it at the right torque then it went *snap*, what can i do? and what if i just keep it without it being there?? its the first one in the torqing sequesnce on the intake side so the top middle, any suggestions?


THANKS GUYS FOR HTE HELP I SOLVED THE PROBLEM I TOOK A CHIZEL AND MADE MY OUR FLATHEAD AND TOOK A SCREW DRIVER AND BACKED IT OUT THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP!


Modified by AllMotorHatch11 at 7:25 AM 10/20/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AllMotorHatch11 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok i was torqin it down and set the torque wrench wrong and realized it then loosened it again and did it at the right torque then it went *snap*, what can i do? and what if i just keep it without it being there?? its the first one in the torqing sequesnce on the intake side so the top middle, any suggestions?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Same thing happened to me when I was putting my head together. Depending on whether the broken stud is still sticking out of the hole or sunken in here is what you can do.

If a part of the stud is still sticking out do this: with a dremel cutting disk, cut a slot into the top of the stud. Now use a flatheaded screwdriver on that slot and loosen the stud.

If the stud is sunken in do this: you can use a spare flathead screwdriver r a flathead screwdriver bit. With a file or a circular grinder make the tip of the flathead very flat and sharp like a razor and make the tip slanted a little. The tip should be sharp enough to "bite" into the stud, and if it is angled it will cut through the metal easier then if it was flat. You then tap the sharpened flathead or bit onto the end of the broken stud until it cuts into it a little. Once it cuts into the stud, you can turn it to loosen the stud. If you are using a flathead screwdriver you may not have enough leverage to twist it. You might have to get some vise grips to clamp down onto the flathead screwdriver or bit so that you can turn it by hand.

There is a tool that you can use to extract studs that is recessed into a hole, but I can find a pic of it and I dont know what it is called. It is basically a sharp chisel with an angled edge and a special vise grip that you clamp down to turn the chisel.

If you need a better explanation I can draw up a pic or something.


Modified by BlueShadow at 11:45 PM 10/19/2004

 

u mean the valve cover's bolt?

 

no the acual bolt that holds the cam down...yea that sounds like something i can do hopefully just out of curiosity, what if i just didnt mess with it and left it without the bolt??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AllMotorHatch11 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no the acual bolt that holds the cam down...yea that sounds like something i can do hopefully just out of curiosity, what if i just didnt mess with it and left it without the bolt??</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not a very good idea to just leave it there IMO.

Is the bolt sunken in the hole or is it sticking out a little? I know my explanation for taking it out if is is sunken in is long, but it's not that hard to do. Just get a chisel that has a tip that is as wide as the bolt hole. You just need to hammer it into the stud until it digs in, and then you turn it to loosen it. It only took me 10-15 minutes to get it out myself.

 

its sunken in, ok i will try that, and waht are the specs on those bolts? i did 25?? i got a gsr block with a b16 head.. and i prob cant post anymore after this cuz this 5 post rule so if u ask me somehting ill just edit this

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AllMotorHatch11 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its sunken in, ok i will try that, and waht are the specs on those bolts? i did 25?? i got a gsr block with a b16 head.. and i prob cant post anymore after this cuz this 5 post rule so if u ask me somehting ill just edit this </TD></TR></TABLE>

Check out this post that I made up a while back:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=953151

Are you using a beam-type torque wrench or a clicker-type torque wrench? IMO a beam-type torque wrench that reads in INCH-LBS works really good for all the small bolts. For my engine assembly and install I only used my clicker torque wrench for the head bolts, flywheel bolts and the engine mount bolts. For everything else I used my beam torque wrench.

The torque specs for the B18C and B16a are in that link above in both FT/lbs and in/lbs. But you should try getting a beam-type torque wrench because it is a lot more accurate, and if you get one in in'lbs you can use it for the cam cap bolts and all the other smaller bolts.

BEAM TORQUE WRENCH:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr...42000