Ideas for mounting Sparco Evo
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From: Fargo, ND, U.S.A.
Ideas for mounting Sparco Evo
I'm planning on picking up a pair of sparco evo's sometime in the near future, and I understand that these seats use side mounts. I don't need the seats to slide, so i'm not going to use a slider. My dad is a machine toolist and can fab up pretty much any part I need. Here is my question: Is there any reason we can make a side mount bracket and bolt it directly to the seat and to the floor? What is the purpose of purchasing a seat bracket from sparco or wedge? TIA
Sean
Sean
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Re: Ideas for mounting Sparco Evo (spankjelly)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spankjelly »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> What is the purpose of purchasing a seat bracket from sparco or wedge? TIA
Sean</TD></TR></TABLE>
The purpose is so that you don't have to go through all that trouble to get a bracket/mount made
Convenience will cost ya, hehe.
Sean</TD></TR></TABLE>
The purpose is so that you don't have to go through all that trouble to get a bracket/mount made
Convenience will cost ya, hehe.
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Re: Ideas for mounting Sparco Evo (spankjelly)
The Sparco/Wedge brackets let you use the OEM mounting locations in the unibody (whether you use sliders or not). The OEM mounting locations are reinforced in the unibody to prevent tearout. 
Also, I believe there was some thinking behind the orientation to those 4-bolts used to mount the stock seat into the unibody. Two are placed in tension and two in shear. I believe this makes most sense in the event of some rearward impact (slam backwards into a wall or get rear ended) that forces you into the seat back. As for a forward impact, I think they factor in the belts affect to decelerate the body. And side impacts sort of split the difference.
I'd really want to use/incorporate the OEM chassis mounting points as much as possible from a safety standpoint.
The problem with the Sparco/Wedge Eng. bracket is that the seat starts getting real tall and headroom is lost (especially when using a helmet).
If you are tall, helmeted, need the headroom that bad; and you use/fab side-mount brackets and bolt them to the floor, you should use substantial backup plates (thickness and area). Since the floor isn't exactly "flat" you may need a fairly large plate(s) for piece of mind.
I've contemplated this once or twice and had a hollowed out square with rounded corners come to mind. The square shape comes from the 4-hole pattern the side-mount brackets will give you. It should probably be larger than the square made by the brackets. Hollow in the center to loose some weight that isn't really needed to reinforce. And rounded corners to reduce "puncturing" the floor-pan in an accident.
Also, I believe there was some thinking behind the orientation to those 4-bolts used to mount the stock seat into the unibody. Two are placed in tension and two in shear. I believe this makes most sense in the event of some rearward impact (slam backwards into a wall or get rear ended) that forces you into the seat back. As for a forward impact, I think they factor in the belts affect to decelerate the body. And side impacts sort of split the difference.
I'd really want to use/incorporate the OEM chassis mounting points as much as possible from a safety standpoint.
The problem with the Sparco/Wedge Eng. bracket is that the seat starts getting real tall and headroom is lost (especially when using a helmet).
If you are tall, helmeted, need the headroom that bad; and you use/fab side-mount brackets and bolt them to the floor, you should use substantial backup plates (thickness and area). Since the floor isn't exactly "flat" you may need a fairly large plate(s) for piece of mind.I've contemplated this once or twice and had a hollowed out square with rounded corners come to mind. The square shape comes from the 4-hole pattern the side-mount brackets will give you. It should probably be larger than the square made by the brackets. Hollow in the center to loose some weight that isn't really needed to reinforce. And rounded corners to reduce "puncturing" the floor-pan in an accident.
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From: SD
Re: Ideas for mounting Sparco Evo (XrcR6)
i have a side mount JIC seat in my crx.
i used sparco base and the sparco side mounts only. sliders made it way too high.
u can pretty much fab up your own base using the stock bolt locations, and make some tabs for the side mount and you are done.
i used sparco base and the sparco side mounts only. sliders made it way too high.
u can pretty much fab up your own base using the stock bolt locations, and make some tabs for the side mount and you are done.
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From: Fargo, ND, U.S.A.
Re: Ideas for mounting Sparco Evo (Fobtions)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fobtions »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a side mount JIC seat in my crx.
i used sparco base and the sparco side mounts only. sliders made it way too high.
u can pretty much fab up your own base using the stock bolt locations, and make some tabs for the side mount and you are done. </TD></TR></TABLE>
This is what I will probably do, use a side mount and fabricate it so that it (the side mount) bolts directly to the factory mounting points without an additional bracket. Should keep the seat nice and low and minimize harware...I'll let you guys know how it turns out.
i used sparco base and the sparco side mounts only. sliders made it way too high.
u can pretty much fab up your own base using the stock bolt locations, and make some tabs for the side mount and you are done. </TD></TR></TABLE>
This is what I will probably do, use a side mount and fabricate it so that it (the side mount) bolts directly to the factory mounting points without an additional bracket. Should keep the seat nice and low and minimize harware...I'll let you guys know how it turns out.
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From: Gainesville, FL
Re: Ideas for mounting Sparco Evo (XrcR6)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XrcR6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Two are placed in tension and two in shear. </TD></TR></TABLE>
But all of the bolts connecting the side mounts to the floor mount are in shear, so no matter how you connect the floor mount to the floor, you'll have 4 bolts in shear.
To answer the original question, there's no reason you can't mount the side mounts directly to the floor. Here is what I did:
But all of the bolts connecting the side mounts to the floor mount are in shear, so no matter how you connect the floor mount to the floor, you'll have 4 bolts in shear.
To answer the original question, there's no reason you can't mount the side mounts directly to the floor. Here is what I did:
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Re: Ideas for mounting Sparco Evo (travis)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by travis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
But all of the bolts connecting the side mounts to the floor mount are in shear, so no matter how you connect the floor mount to the floor, you'll have 4 bolts in shear.
To answer the original question, there's no reason you can't mount the side mounts directly to the floor. Here is what I did:
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Perfect! Thats exactly what I want to do! Aluminum or steel?
But all of the bolts connecting the side mounts to the floor mount are in shear, so no matter how you connect the floor mount to the floor, you'll have 4 bolts in shear.
To answer the original question, there's no reason you can't mount the side mounts directly to the floor. Here is what I did:
</TD></TR></TABLE>Perfect! Thats exactly what I want to do! Aluminum or steel?
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From: Gainesville, FL
Re: Ideas for mounting Sparco Evo (spankjelly)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spankjelly »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Perfect! Thats exactly what I want to do! Aluminum or steel?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Steel.
Here's an excerp from an answer I just typed for another question regarding this mount:
"My backing plates are 2" round washers, 1/8" thick and I used two. As for the mount to the front cross brace, here's what I mean. The front cross brace is hollow metal. If you just drill a hole through it and put a bolt through that hole, the brace will collapse when you tighten the bolt all the way down. That's no good. Instead, find yourself a section of pipe that has an inner diameter the same as the outer diameter of your bolt such that the bolt can slide tightly into the pipe. Drill a hole through the cross brace (but not all the way through the floor) the size of the outer diameter of the pipe. Cut the pipe length just long enough to sit on the floor (in the hole you drilled) and be flush with the top of the cross brace (where you driled the hole). Now drill a hole the size of the bolt diameter through the bottom of the floor so that the pipe can't fall down through it. The purpose of the pipe is to allow full tightening of the bolt without crushing the hollow cross brace. Place a washer (whatever size, strength isn't too important) with an inner diameter of the bolt over the top of the pipe piece and cover that with your seat mount. Then thread a bolt from below the car up throught he floor, pipe, washer, and seat mount in that order and then double nut. Make sense?
"
Perfect! Thats exactly what I want to do! Aluminum or steel?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Steel.
Here's an excerp from an answer I just typed for another question regarding this mount:
"My backing plates are 2" round washers, 1/8" thick and I used two. As for the mount to the front cross brace, here's what I mean. The front cross brace is hollow metal. If you just drill a hole through it and put a bolt through that hole, the brace will collapse when you tighten the bolt all the way down. That's no good. Instead, find yourself a section of pipe that has an inner diameter the same as the outer diameter of your bolt such that the bolt can slide tightly into the pipe. Drill a hole through the cross brace (but not all the way through the floor) the size of the outer diameter of the pipe. Cut the pipe length just long enough to sit on the floor (in the hole you drilled) and be flush with the top of the cross brace (where you driled the hole). Now drill a hole the size of the bolt diameter through the bottom of the floor so that the pipe can't fall down through it. The purpose of the pipe is to allow full tightening of the bolt without crushing the hollow cross brace. Place a washer (whatever size, strength isn't too important) with an inner diameter of the bolt over the top of the pipe piece and cover that with your seat mount. Then thread a bolt from below the car up throught he floor, pipe, washer, and seat mount in that order and then double nut. Make sense?
"
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Re: Ideas for mounting Sparco Evo (travis)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by travis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Steel.
Here's an excerp from an answer I just typed for another question regarding this mount:
"My backing plates are 2" round washers, 1/8" thick and I used two. As for the mount to the front cross brace, here's what I mean. The front cross brace is hollow metal. If you just drill a hole through it and put a bolt through that hole, the brace will collapse when you tighten the bolt all the way down. That's no good. Instead, find yourself a section of pipe that has an inner diameter the same as the outer diameter of your bolt such that the bolt can slide tightly into the pipe. Drill a hole through the cross brace (but not all the way through the floor) the size of the outer diameter of the pipe. Cut the pipe length just long enough to sit on the floor (in the hole you drilled) and be flush with the top of the cross brace (where you driled the hole). Now drill a hole the size of the bolt diameter through the bottom of the floor so that the pipe can't fall down through it. The purpose of the pipe is to allow full tightening of the bolt without crushing the hollow cross brace. Place a washer (whatever size, strength isn't too important) with an inner diameter of the bolt over the top of the pipe piece and cover that with your seat mount. Then thread a bolt from below the car up throught he floor, pipe, washer, and seat mount in that order and then double nut. Make sense?
"</TD></TR></TABLE>
So you actually drilled holes through the bottom of the car and brought the bolt up through the floor?
I was actually thinking of something similiar with the pipe (maybe an aluminum blank) idea, but instead I would just tap this piece so that a bolt could be threaded down from the top. This would eliminate having to drill the floor of the car. Whattaya think?
Steel.
Here's an excerp from an answer I just typed for another question regarding this mount:
"My backing plates are 2" round washers, 1/8" thick and I used two. As for the mount to the front cross brace, here's what I mean. The front cross brace is hollow metal. If you just drill a hole through it and put a bolt through that hole, the brace will collapse when you tighten the bolt all the way down. That's no good. Instead, find yourself a section of pipe that has an inner diameter the same as the outer diameter of your bolt such that the bolt can slide tightly into the pipe. Drill a hole through the cross brace (but not all the way through the floor) the size of the outer diameter of the pipe. Cut the pipe length just long enough to sit on the floor (in the hole you drilled) and be flush with the top of the cross brace (where you driled the hole). Now drill a hole the size of the bolt diameter through the bottom of the floor so that the pipe can't fall down through it. The purpose of the pipe is to allow full tightening of the bolt without crushing the hollow cross brace. Place a washer (whatever size, strength isn't too important) with an inner diameter of the bolt over the top of the pipe piece and cover that with your seat mount. Then thread a bolt from below the car up throught he floor, pipe, washer, and seat mount in that order and then double nut. Make sense?
"</TD></TR></TABLE>
So you actually drilled holes through the bottom of the car and brought the bolt up through the floor?
I was actually thinking of something similiar with the pipe (maybe an aluminum blank) idea, but instead I would just tap this piece so that a bolt could be threaded down from the top. This would eliminate having to drill the floor of the car. Whattaya think?
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From: Portland, OR, USA
Re: Ideas for mounting Sparco Evo (travis)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by travis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Steel.
Here's an excerp from an answer I just typed for another question regarding this mount:
"My backing plates are 2" round washers, 1/8" thick and I used two. As for the mount to the front cross brace, here's what I mean. The front cross brace is hollow metal. If you just drill a hole through it and put a bolt through that hole, the brace will collapse when you tighten the bolt all the way down. That's no good. Instead, find yourself a section of pipe that has an inner diameter the same as the outer diameter of your bolt such that the bolt can slide tightly into the pipe. Drill a hole through the cross brace (but not all the way through the floor) the size of the outer diameter of the pipe. Cut the pipe length just long enough to sit on the floor (in the hole you drilled) and be flush with the top of the cross brace (where you driled the hole). Now drill a hole the size of the bolt diameter through the bottom of the floor so that the pipe can't fall down through it. The purpose of the pipe is to allow full tightening of the bolt without crushing the hollow cross brace. Place a washer (whatever size, strength isn't too important) with an inner diameter of the bolt over the top of the pipe piece and cover that with your seat mount. Then thread a bolt from below the car up throught he floor, pipe, washer, and seat mount in that order and then double nut. Make sense?
"</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow you are getting double duty out of these answers
In retrospect I should have made a thread so everyone would have this info.
Thanks again
Steel.
Here's an excerp from an answer I just typed for another question regarding this mount:
"My backing plates are 2" round washers, 1/8" thick and I used two. As for the mount to the front cross brace, here's what I mean. The front cross brace is hollow metal. If you just drill a hole through it and put a bolt through that hole, the brace will collapse when you tighten the bolt all the way down. That's no good. Instead, find yourself a section of pipe that has an inner diameter the same as the outer diameter of your bolt such that the bolt can slide tightly into the pipe. Drill a hole through the cross brace (but not all the way through the floor) the size of the outer diameter of the pipe. Cut the pipe length just long enough to sit on the floor (in the hole you drilled) and be flush with the top of the cross brace (where you driled the hole). Now drill a hole the size of the bolt diameter through the bottom of the floor so that the pipe can't fall down through it. The purpose of the pipe is to allow full tightening of the bolt without crushing the hollow cross brace. Place a washer (whatever size, strength isn't too important) with an inner diameter of the bolt over the top of the pipe piece and cover that with your seat mount. Then thread a bolt from below the car up throught he floor, pipe, washer, and seat mount in that order and then double nut. Make sense?
"</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow you are getting double duty out of these answers
In retrospect I should have made a thread so everyone would have this info.
Thanks again
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From: Fargo, ND, U.S.A.
Re: Ideas for mounting Sparco Evo (garylythgoe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by garylythgoe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Bit like that? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Custom side mounts or no?
Bit like that?
</TD></TR></TABLE>Custom side mounts or no?
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Re: Ideas for mounting Sparco Evo (TIRENECK)
Ive got a Real EF8 with custom stainless gauges...
The sparco mounts holes needed a bit of filing but it all bolted up! quite easy with a bit of brute force... Im now looking for DC2 recaro's but im in the UK so thats no good
Fitting the seats was easy took no more than an hour each side..
The sparco mounts holes needed a bit of filing but it all bolted up! quite easy with a bit of brute force... Im now looking for DC2 recaro's but im in the UK so thats no good
Fitting the seats was easy took no more than an hour each side..
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From: Surrey, BC, Canada
Re: Ideas for mounting Sparco Evo (spankjelly)
I did something quite similar to what Travis did, except I cut the OEM cross braces to allow the sidemounts to bolt directly to the floor pan. I'm using the same 2" diameter backing washers and high grade bolts. However, I'm contemplating welding some 1/8" plate to the floor in the areas where the seat bolts go through (maybe 3" square) to allow for more strength.
I'm using the Sparco Pro 2000, and the Sparco aluminum sidemounts. I originally installed the seat with the steel sidemounts, but they are seriously heavy chunks of steel.
I am 5' 11" tall, and have a strangely tall/long back. Most people sit in my seat, and can barely see over the dash. It is pretty much perfect for me.
I'm using the Sparco Pro 2000, and the Sparco aluminum sidemounts. I originally installed the seat with the steel sidemounts, but they are seriously heavy chunks of steel.
I am 5' 11" tall, and have a strangely tall/long back. Most people sit in my seat, and can barely see over the dash. It is pretty much perfect for me.
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From: Portland, OR, USA
Re: Ideas for mounting Sparco Evo (Jaker)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jaker »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did something quite similar to what Travis did, except I cut the OEM cross braces to allow the sidemounts to bolt directly to the floor pan. I'm using the same 2" diameter backing washers and high grade bolts. However, I'm contemplating welding some 1/8" plate to the floor in the areas where the seat bolts go through (maybe 3" square) to allow for more strength.
I'm using the Sparco Pro 2000, and the Sparco aluminum sidemounts. I originally installed the seat with the steel sidemounts, but they are seriously heavy chunks of steel.
I am 5' 11" tall, and have a strangely tall/long back. Most people sit in my seat, and can barely see over the dash. It is pretty much perfect for me.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have been thinking about doing that also because it would drop my seat low enough that I don't think I would have any problems with the side bolster hitting the cage (which I do now).
Seeing over the dash would be a concern though. I can see the road but I wouldnt be able to see the hood really...
Is mounting the seat directly to the floor metal safe though (even with backing plates)?
I'm using the Sparco Pro 2000, and the Sparco aluminum sidemounts. I originally installed the seat with the steel sidemounts, but they are seriously heavy chunks of steel.
I am 5' 11" tall, and have a strangely tall/long back. Most people sit in my seat, and can barely see over the dash. It is pretty much perfect for me.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have been thinking about doing that also because it would drop my seat low enough that I don't think I would have any problems with the side bolster hitting the cage (which I do now).
Seeing over the dash would be a concern though. I can see the road but I wouldnt be able to see the hood really...
Is mounting the seat directly to the floor metal safe though (even with backing plates)?
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From: CA, US
Re: Ideas for mounting Sparco Evo (spankjelly)
just to let you know. i put the Sparco EVO in my 88 hatch with the wedge seat base. I don't recommend it at all. It's situtates the driver way to high. The steering wheel came down to my lap....practically touching my thighs. When I put my helmet on my head became the high point of the car.......it was touching the roof. I'm getting my seat put into my car completely custom. Oh by the way i'm only 5' 7.5"
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Re: Ideas for mounting Sparco Evo (mamaboy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by garylythgoe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Bit like that? </TD></TR></TABLE>
show off!! I want a glass top
Bit like that? </TD></TR></TABLE>
show off!! I want a glass top
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From: 1172, posts, ...
Re: Ideas for mounting Sparco Evo (eLUDEnu)
i have sparco fighter with sparco base mount and sparco sliders, and a custom bracket thing that rasies the front of the seat about 2 inches or less so that i can use the sliders...
i sit very high need to fiqure soemthng out
i sit very high
need to fiqure soemthng out
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