i have a 91 civic dx hb. i put a 98 d16y7 motor with a z6 head on it in my car. i changed the car from dpfi to mpfi. i had probs getting the car to run which i found to be my igniter. changed that and it started. my problem is that the car is smelling allot like raw fuel...which is a sign of loading up. i found my iacv is bad, so i did the "piece of pop can trick" between the iacv and intake..the surging idle is gone. could i have a coil that is going bad? igniter going bad again? the car absolutely screams....ebrake===smokes 1st and 2nd gear.. but it smells like unburnt fuel. i am about to buy some C-4 PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE AND END THIS DAMN CARS LIFE.

 

does it smell in the engine bay or the exhaust gas?

it could be leaky injectors if its in the engine bay

 

it smells at the rear of the car...through the exhaust

 

any codes?

 

oops...also...no damn codes....the check engine light is not on.....
could the cat convertor be bad?

 

Bring out the C4's

check your spark plugs, spark plug wires.

 

My Setup again
91 civic dx hb
converted from dpfi-mpfi
88 crxsi ecu,dizzy,intake mani.
motor is a 98 d16y7 with a 94 civic ex (z6) head on it.

ok guys, i just replaced the coil and the igniter. after the car warms up...and the idleing dies to almost nothing...it sounds like a whole bunch of rockers are ticking. tick.tick.ticka ticka tick ticktick...this thing is driving me nuckin futz. also,no CEL...
if the car is running and you pull off the plug to the tps...should the car shut off or anything? it don't do anything if i pull the plug off except turn on the cel. i checked all the vacuum lines and sprayed carb cleaner everywhere....nothing. i even replaced the pcv valve.....would a clogged cat convertor do this to me? can i use a obd1 throttle body....?
also, another guy said that the valves need adjusted...i did adjust the valves when i did the mini-me..i only put 12 miles on this damn motor.
PLEASE TRY TO HELP ME..

 

why wont people understand, anytime u swap a vtec motor in your car dont run it off anything other than its specific ecu or something very close. that pm6 sucks for your engine if you didnt know that. too many people are stuck on if it works, do it. Sure it works. if i wanted you to shut up I could ask you nicely or kick you right in the *****, it wouldnt be nice but **** it works dont it

 

that absolutely did nothing for me.....take yer own advice..


Modified by bustah49 at 1:40 AM 10/26/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bustah49 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that absolutely did nothing for me.....take yer own advice..SHUT THE **** UP...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

dude, that was about the nicest way i could hvae come up with to tell you you're ******* dumb for using the WRONG ecu.

get the right ecu in there or your **** will never run right.

and learn to take a joke, cause he really didnt' mean any offense.

 

what ecu should i use?
when i read up on doint the dpfi-mpfi conversion...they say get the ecu,dizzy,intake manifold from a 88-91 crx or civic si......or did i read some thing wrong?

 

convert the car to obd1 contact blown90hatch and he can build you a harness. Next get a p28 any obd1 vtec ecu.

DEF

 

i am gonna try another ecu tomorrow if i can find one....since that is the only thing i have not tried yet

 

A couple of questions - first, you have nothing about how you are running the VTEC in your car, so does that mean you are just using the z6 head without using the VTEC? also, when you switched over to mpfi and used the si distributor, did you wire in the cylinder sensor? if i remember correctly, that motor does not have a cylinder sensor in the distributor and only runs 5 wires instead of 7. Ok, now onto some answers. To answer your question about pulling the tps plug off, yes the car will still run, it just doesn't run right. you can still excelerate the throttle, but i believe it has to be slow - if you try to go wide open throttle i think it will stall, i dont' remember what happened last time i played with that. now, if you do change to the p28 ecu and switch to obdI you will need to change a couple of things. First thing is you will need to get your hands on an obdI distributor and you will also need to get yourself a throttle body, or at least the throttle position sensor from an obdI vehicle as well. Those two things are both obd specific. They have to match the obd of the ecu. now, the ticking noise could also be bad injectors. some people have said that the honda injectors make noise that sounds like the valves need adjusting. you may want to throw a little fuel injector cleaner into the tank and see if they can just be cleaned up a little, or you may need new injectors. that is just a possibility, not a definate. just something to look into. now once you change over to obdI, if that is what you are going to do, you will also be able to activate the vtec and get more power out of that motor, but the jumper harness to convert to obdI will have the three wires for you to wire in the vtec solenoid and the vtec oil pressure switch. after you have converted and get everything running, there is a way to set the idle. you need to let the car get up to operating temperature. shut the car off, unplug the iacv, turn the car on, adjust the idle screw until the idle smooths out and gets to where you want it, then shut the car off, plug in the iacv, reset the ecu by pulling the fuse for 10 sec, which in my 89 civic after doing the conversion was the hazard fuse in the engine fuse box, and then start the car back up. hopefully this helps with your problems. good luck.

 

I'm with blackhatch on this one. Just finished D15 to D16z6 on an '89, went to full OBD1 with P28 ECU. Admit lots of wiring (even with harness). But runs like a charm now. Only had to work thru 3 codes and 3 wiring errors. Used a full Z6 engine, harness, distrbutor, switch to MPFI, and P28 ECU.

 

ok...just out of curiosity. i replaced the fuel pressure regulator with a good one.....i also replaced the coolant temperature sensor. did not make a differance. so for ***** and giggles, i took off my exhaust,(since i was gonna replace it anyhow) aand took the convertor off....YOU CAN NOT SEE THROUGH THE CONVERTOR so i think that the convertor is clogged. i also took off the EACV,guess what,...there is no damn screen in it. so i am going to try and find a good used eacv that is compaible with the crx si. and i am going to borrow a set of injectors and another ecu...

 

the best advice you can get is to convert to obd1.

 

i am not converting this car to obd1...
i bought this car for my oldest son thought it would be a cheap project car...yeah right.
i have over 1500.00 in this car already...i only paid 100.00 for it.

 

i bought a crx for 100 bucks and scimping (sp) on the little **** that is important why you will spend money on stupid stuff swapping out parts.

DEF

 

couple more questions...
if your coolant sensor goes bad,..will it throw a code? i had a guy tell me no.
if the ecu itself is bad...does it throw a code?
how will your car run @ idle if the injectors are bad?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bustah49 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am not converting this car to obd1...
i bought this car for my oldest son thought it would be a cheap project car...yeah right.
i have over 1500.00 in this car already...i only paid 100.00 for it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

then your car will never run right. Unless you get a vtec controller, which is just as hard to install as it is to convert to obd1.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bustah49 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">couple more questions...
if your coolant sensor goes bad,..will it throw a code? i had a guy tell me no. </TD></TR></TABLE>

normally it will not throw a code unless it's completely disconnected or if the sensor tries to tell the computer some dumb **** like if it's saying the engine is overheating immediately after startup.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bustah49 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if the ecu itself is bad...does it throw a code?</TD></TR></TABLE>

usually no.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bustah49 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how will your car run @ idle if the injectors are bad?</TD></TR></TABLE>

rough. like an egr that stays partially open. basically you're running somewhat lean.

 

if you're trying to diagnose the reason why your car isn't running right, LISTEN TO WHAT EVERYONE HAS TOLD YOU LIKE 20 TIMES!!!

YOU GOT THE WRONG ******* ECU!!!!!!

don't bother looknig at injectors IF YOU DON'T HAVE THE RIGHT GODDAMN ECU!!!!!

to fix your car do the following:

-convert to obd1 and get an obd1 single cam vtec ecu. (preferred)
-get a vtec controller(this is a jerry rigged way to do it)

EDIT: sorry to be a dick, but seriously, you are wasting your time thinking about injectors and wasting your time whining about obd1 conversion. Get the right ecu in there or shut the **** up.

 

dude....NOW YOUR PISSING ME OFF. MY WHOLE ******* CAR IS WIRED FOR A 88 CIVIC SI. JUST BECAUSE I HAVE A Z6 HEAD ON MY CAR DOES NOT MEAN I NEED TO RUN A ******* P28......THIS SAME SETUP RAN IN MY 98 CIVIC HB. DON'T TREAT ME LIKE A ******* NOOBIE. I COULD GIVE A RATS *** LESS ABOUT THE ******* VTEC. I AM RUNNING A PM6 IN THIS CAR, WHICH IS THE ECU FOR THE CIVIC SI. ALSO..THIS IS NOT MY 1ST CAR THAT I HAVE BEEN UNDER THE HOOD ON....THIS IS THE 3RD CAR I HAVE BUILT THIS YEAR.

 

hehe

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bustah49 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude....NOW YOUR PISSING ME OFF. MY WHOLE ******* CAR IS WIRED FOR A 88 CIVIC SI. JUST BECAUSE I HAVE A Z6 HEAD ON MY CAR DOES NOT MEAN I NEED TO RUN A ******* P28......THIS SAME SETUP RAN IN MY 98 CIVIC HB. DON'T TREAT ME LIKE A ******* NOOBIE. I COULD GIVE A RATS *** LESS ABOUT THE ******* VTEC. I AM RUNNING A PM6 IN THIS CAR, WHICH IS THE ECU FOR THE CIVIC SI. ALSO..THIS IS NOT MY 1ST CAR THAT I HAVE BEEN UNDER THE HOOD ON....THIS IS THE 3RD CAR I HAVE BUILT THIS YEAR. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok, I didn't want to step into this but time to break out the schooling children (I mean child).

First off, let me say good for you that you have worked on three cars this year. Hopefully the other projects came out well, but what purpose does it have here saying how many you have done? Experience does not equal knowledge, as you will not be correct in every situation. Each project brings new variables into the scene and if I have guessed correctly, this combination of motor parts originated in your OBD-2 hatch.

The hatch is wired for one of the highest levels of computer control. The valvetrain of the motor you are using is OBD-1. The ignition equipment you are using is of OBD-0 variety. You have covered all the bases of Onboard Diagnostics, unless you feel like converting to an immobilizer system . Anyways, our OBD-0 chassis never came with an option of VTEC, or the added electronics that the OBD-1 systems use to monitor the engine and allow VTEC to engage. Without that fine amount of control, kiss fine fuel management off the door. It is possible to work it out, but by trying only to replace parts rather than rework them you have created excess hassle and work. You have to remember, as with the motor, the ECU is also non-dependant of the chassis. That is the basis of all motor swaps, everything will need to go if changing to something different (Sans axles, possibly the transmission, etc.) if the head design is changed. And that is all I can say right now as my Internal Combustions Lab starts in 12 minutes.