Ok guys, here is what happened. In short i installed the new Zex 59300 (my first time) and i fucked up because i didnt loosing the lash on the rocker clearance before bolting down the rocker assembly again. Alas i cracked and destroyed my old 1! Now i am trying to source another assembly for my d16y1 (yes its a y1, 93-95 SOHC VTEC in Australia, until now, very comparble to the z6) and i have got a mate who had a complete y8 head - which i took the assembly off. Basically i posted this on another forum and was told it would be an OK swap as the VTEC assemblys are the same, but was then told that it wouldnt work at all, and the rocker arms are totally different. Seeing as though i could get my hands on it and use it if i needed, i grabbed the y8 assembly anyways and test fitted it up. i firstly tested fitting my z6 assembly to the y8 head, and then the y8 assembly to the y1 head.

The rocker arms look like they are fine to me in comparison with the old ones, and like up perfectly with the guides.. the only real difference i could see were a couple of moulding shapes on the allominium and the oil squirters(?) up top. I finger tightend all the bolts and what i ended up with is as follows. My concerns are:
1) the valve lash clearance. i have pictured below 2 lash's are completly backed out and currently have almost 0 room to more before they put pressure on the springs. ATM the head is at TDC. Is this normal? The cam is a Stage 2 Zex (59300). i know u have to rotate the engine to set the lash correctly, but i am not sure if this is ok to torque down if they are already touching! because i fucked up my old assembly like this last time (accept i didnt ajust any lash and just torqued it down - new cam remmber - and the pressure on the rockers crasked the asembly. OPINIONS?? this is my main concern!!

2) the oil squirters. this is the main function difference i can see. the old ones in my y1 head did not have the retaining housing that these do.

Basically i need opinions before i torque these down, please help!


OLD
VS

NEW


Oil squiters. noticly different housing, although actuating the same way


This is the clearance issue i was talking about. is it normal to have pressure on the valve when torqing the assembly down - it will *** about 1mm worth of pressure before its secure.


Gap left before flush. Its finger tight atm.


Im keeping an eye on this gap. if it doesnt close up when torqued, i wont use it

Can anyone see why this wont work? thoughts on the clearance issue? adivce in general? I am awaiting replys before i torque everything down and test out how the engine spins by turning the crank and and adjusting the valves.

Thanks heeps guys!

 

first off you need to use your manual for the torque sequence. yes that gap is normal. the key is to draw the rocker assembly down evenly so you dont crack ****. so do this: put your cam at TDC. then take your socket and go around in the order you are supposed to torque them down. just tighten the bolts until the rocker assembly makes contact with the head. then once you have the rocker assembly evenly contacting the head you can go arund and torque everything to spec. once you have done that you can go thru and adjust your valves. use your manual while doing this as well. you will have to turn the camgear counter-clockwise 90 degrees to do each cylinder and they dont go in order straight across, so refer to your manual. as far as whether the 2 assemblies are compatible i am not positive as i have never interchanged them and tryed it. maybe try posting this at http://www.d-series.org and seeing what kind of response you get there. also dont worry about the valve opening when tightening the rocker assembly down. this is normal.

 

hmmm... thanks for the input

 

One important thing that most people overlook is that the cam journals are bored with the original cam caps and if you swap the cam caps from another head then alot of times the bores don't match up and the cam is impossible to turn once everything is torqued down or it ends up seizing up and ruining the head and cam. The best way to check if it will work without binding is to remove the springs and valves, torque everything down, and you should be able to turn the cam with your hand.

Obviously the head will need to be removed for this, but it is worth not trashing your new camshaft over it.

 

if i was take my current ones (some are cracked down the side) along with the ones out of another head to a machine shop, would it be possible to have them match them up or would that not be possible.